Château de Pez: Tasting & Drinking

The majority of my encounters with Château de Pez have been brief tastings, often when visiting Pichon-Lalande, but occasionally at other events, so this is certainly a story of ‘tasting’ rather than ‘drinking’. Nevertheless, it is châteaux such as this one that those of us who can no longer afford the likes of Cos d’Estournel and Calon-Ségur are being directed to these days (often by those who can still afford Cos d’Estournel and Calon-Ségur), so this property is certainly worth some discussion.

Nevertheless, it is only the most recent vintages, all made under the control of the Roederer team (which, as indicated above, is true of all vintages from 1996) that I can make any comment on. Of these, the most convincing has without any doubt been the 2010, which was savoury and substantial when tasted at Pichon-Lalande during the primeurs tastings. Of course this was a barrel sample and not a finished wine, and such opinions should be regarded with a note of caution, but the wine showed consistently when it came to tasting after bottling in 2012. The 2009 vintage, also tasted en primeur, felt a little forced, and I hope I have the opportunity to taste the finished wine someday. The 2008, meanwhile, tasted both en primeur and from bottle, has always shown a more composed structure, more so than the 2006. The 2002, tasted quite a few years ago now, was impressive for the vintage.

Overall, Château de Pez is certainly not an estate to be ignored. I don’t yet find here the attraction that I sense when tasting Ormes de Pez or Phélan-Ségur, its cru bourgeois St Estèphe peers, but give it time. It may well come before long. (7/12/11, updated 8/12/12, 26/1/13)

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