Château Haut-Batailley: Tasting & Drinking
I have long held a sneaking admiration for the wines of Château Haut-Batailley. This estate long held a reputation as one of the more affordable cru classé wines, and provided the wines were allowed to develop into maturity they provided very satisfactory drinking, and they were also excellent value for money.
Today the wine remains at the more affordable end of the Pauillac spectrum, although they are more expensive than they once were (isn’t everything?!), and I expect prices will follow the upwards trajectory seen across Bordeaux in recent years, although at least here it does reflect significant investment in the vineyard and a rising quality in the bottle. Nevertheless, the prices today might mean that while these bottles were once a ‘no-brainer’ purchase, such a decision might require more careful consideration today. Nevertheless, it might still be worthwhile seeking out older vintages, as I doubt these rising prices will be successfully transmitted to old stock. And the wine pretty much always delivered.
Looking first to the wines of the Cazes era, top quality can be found today in the 2022, 2020 and 2018 vintages, with the 2023 also a promising result. The 2024 was a decent effort taking into account the quality of the vintage, better than the 2021 anyway.
Looking back further in time, I enjoyed the 2015, 2014 and 2009 vintages here. The 2000 has also given a lot of pleasure over the years. These old vintages delivered both on quality but also on price. Honourable mentions must also be made of the 1996, 1995, 1994 (yes, really), 1990, 1982 and even the 1981 vintages, all of which have crossed my palate and induced a smile over the years.
Is the wine better today though, under the direction of the Cazes family? Yes, I have to say I think it is; it was arguably treading water in times gone by. Investment and reinvigoration has been good for this estate.
One last word directed at more price-sensitive buyers; do not be put off by the young-vine origins of the second wine, Verso. Taking this into account, this is a wine which punches above its weight, and will make good drinking at at earlier date than other purchases. That was once true, I suppose, of the grand vin. (23/3/07, updated 18/9/13, 13/5/17, 5/3/26)
