Domaine Huet, 2011 Update
Clearly I have been in an Anjou frame of mind recently, publishing new notes and new or revised profiles for some of the biggest and most long-standing names in the region, names such as Pierre-Bise, Baumard, Ogereau and also the more recently discovered Yves Guégniard of Domaine de la Bergerie. Although there are many features that might form a common theme to connect these domaines, one that I will be building on in the coming weeks and months is Savennières, as I home in on those domaines which focus on this appellation; the ‘Savennières Specialists’, if you will. Expect new notes and reviews featuring Domaine du Closel, Domaine aux Moines, Damien Laureau, Nicolas Joly, Château d’Epiré and others.
In the meantime though, this seems like a good moment for an Anjou intermission and to bring out some other recently penned notes on one of the Loire’s most important domaines, Domaine Huet. This is one of the few Loire domaines that seems to have crossed over into the realm of general semi-cultish appeal; rather like the wines of the late Didier Dagueneau, you don’t have to be a Loire-head to know, buy and appreciate these wines. Availability is good too; of all the merchant’s offers that drop into my inbox every day, usually enticements to buy bottles from the latest ‘dream cellar’ or some ‘good-value’ ex-cellars release from a famed Bordeaux château, the only Loire estate I can recall seeing featured is Domaine Huet. A touch of Vouvray in amongst the Vosne-Romanée and Vega Sicilia.
I tasted the latest releases from Domaine Huet in February 2011 in the company of Noël Pinguet and Benjamin Joliveau, who is set to take the reins when Noël retires in 2015. Naturally the 2010 vintage was first up, admittedly after a quick look at the consistently appealing 2005 Pétillant. Noël reported that the 2010 vintage was not a difficult one, with a cool spring followed by favourable summer weather. The harvest began on September 27th, this first tri for a 2010 pétillant, followed by harvesting for sec, and a tiny quantity of demi-sec and moelleux première trie. There were three tries in total, with the final few grapes picked on October 12th.
