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Domaine du Closel (Château des Vaults)

The Savennières appellation seems to have more than its fair share of name confusion. Take Nicolas Joly, for instance; his name is widely known, as is his most iconic wine, from the Savennières cru Clos de la Coulée de Serrant. That the hub of his domaine is the Château de la Roches-aux-Moines is perhaps less well known, and maybe that is for the best; not only does it sound rather similar to Domaine aux Moines, where Monique and Tessa Laroche exploit several hectares of vines, Roches-aux-Moines is also the name of the other principal cru, utilised by a legion of other Anjou vignerons, including Claude Papin, Vincent Ogereau, Yves Guégniard and Damien Laureau, to name just a handful.

Continuing this theme of nomenclatorial obfuscation there is Domaine du Closel.....which also goes by the name of Château des Vaults. Although this is an ancient domaine, now in the hands of the de Jessey family, this property has enjoyed this somewhat schizophrenic state since at least the early 20th century. And so before we turn to look at Closel's vineyards and cuvées, a little history is required in order to reveal how this confusion arose. And who knows, might we may also uncover a role for the aforementioned Nicolas Joly in Closel's history?

History

The Château des Vaults lies at the south-eastern tip of the village of Savennières and dates to at least 1495, when the Seigneurie des Vaults was described in documents as having "accommodation, orchards, gardens and vineyards". By 1636 it was in the ownership of Guillaume Bautru, the Comte de Serrant, who was well known both as an associate of Cardinal Richelieu and also as a satirical poet. This seems to have part of a programme of property acquisition for him, as he also acquired that year the partially-built Château de Serrant, subsequently going on to direct the completion of its construction (it was little more than a tower when he purchased it), resulting in the imposing schist and tuffeau edifice that still stands today.

Both of these properties remained with the Bautru family, eventually coming to Bautru's grandniece Madeleine Diane de Vaubrun, the Duchesse d'Estrée. She held onto the estate until 1750 when it was acquired by François Jacques Walsh, a ship-owner of Irish descent and originally from a family of exiled Jacobites. Despite the ravages of the Revolution both Château des Vaults and Château de Serrant remained in the ownership of the Walsh family, the latter until it was sold in 1830. I am uncertain when the Château des Vaults changed hands, but by 1852 it seems to be in the ownership of François-Claude Fourmond-Desmazières, the mayor of Savennières. Fourmond-Desmazières contributed much to the modern appearance of the estate, enlarging and improving the main residence and directing the creation of extensive formal gardens.

The property remained in noble hands when it was inherited by Fourmond-Desmazières' daughter, Vicomtesse Olivier Walsh. As the viscountess died without an heir the estate, by this time suffering devastation from phylloxera, came to the Marquis de Las Cases. At this point we can see where the name Closel originates, as it was next acquired by Bernard de Closel, following his marriage to Marquess de Las Cases, the Marquis' daughter. Like some of his predecessors Bernard too was mayor of Savennières, from 1919 to 1956, thus he had control of the estate as the Savennières appellation came into existence in 1952. In 1962 he passed the estate to a niece, Michèle Bazin de Jessey, and today it is the next generation, Evelyne de Jessey-Pontbriand (pictured right), who is in charge. Evelyne tells me it was her mother, Michèle, who instituted the alternative name of Domaine du Closel alongside Château des Vaults, in honour of the Closel family and Bernard in particular, as she felt that his work for the town and the appellation needed some commemoration.

I have had the good fortune to meet Evelyne and if I were ever so inclined to draw up a ranking of the most charming winemakers I have had the pleasure of meeting I would be greatly surprised if she did not top the chart. A teacher by training, one who travelled the world for her career, Evelyne returned to the domaine to take up the mantle on her mother's retirement. Her education shines through in her gracious manner and precise use of language, and her rich life-experience comes through in her well developed and witty sense of humour. Today though she is more focused on nurturing vines than students, and in doing so she is assisted by her manager Rémi Poitevineau in the vineyard, and by Bruno Perray in the cellars.

Vineyards and Wines

The vineyards have been converted to organic viticulture, with full certification from Ecocert in 2008. There are 16.9 hectares altogether. Vinification has also changed under Evelyne's direction, with a shift away from steel towards use of oak, for the Clos du Papillon at least, utilising older 600-litre demi-muids and second-hand Burgundy barriques.

Although a number of estates based in and around the Savennières appellation focus exclusively on Savennières, a number do not. The Laroche family at Domaine aux Moines, with their Anjou Rouge, is one such example. Here at Domaine du Closel Evelyne de Jessey-Pontbriand takes this one step further and embraces many styles; the Closel portfolio includes sparkling wines, red, rosé and even Verdelho alongside the anticipated cuvées of Savennières.

The most instantly recognisable designation in the Closel portfolio is the Clos du Papillon (label shown below), a lieu-dit which I think many would immediately associate with Domaine des Baumard, but it is by no means a Baumard monopole (although together Florent Baumard and Evelyne de Jessey-Pontbriand do own the bulk of the vineyard). Domaine du Closel has 6 hectares, the vines planted on a complex terroir of rhyolite, spilite, phthanites and even quartz, all set against a backdrop of schist. The vines range from 35 to 75 years of age and are cultivated organically, with grass planted between the rows. The harvest is typically 20-25 hl/ha, picked by hand typically in four tries, with a slow fermentation in barrel lasting typically until the July or August following the vintage, followed by an élevage in the same for up to two years, with bâtonnage. The wine gets a dose of sulphur, typically 50 mg/l, before bottling.

Perhaps the largest single volume comes in the shape of La Jalousie (label shown below), a cuvée from vines planted on schist which Evelyne originally designated Les Coulées after the lieu-dit of origin. Unfortunately one of her neighbours took exception to this choice of name (it doesn't take too much hard though to figure out who in the Savennières appellation might object to the use of Les Coulées) and Evelyne's 'jolly' response was to rechristen her cuvée La Jalousie (or jealousy) instead. Meanwhile, Les Caillardières comes from schisty-sandy soils, from 15- to 25-year old vines. In addition, there are occasional moelleux releases, depending on the vintage.

Although not officially eligible for the Savennières appellation, there is without doubt a long-standing connection between this appellation and the Verdelho variety - as evinced by its presence in the vineyards of Domaine des Baumard - and so it seems reasonable to include it here. As elsewhere, the Savennières vineyards at Closel are peppered with Verdelho vines, and the fruit has long been used in the production of a dry white wine which was much favoured by Evelyne's mother, Michèle. Today it is the norm for Evelyne to sell off the Verdelho as she does not care much for the style, but having tasted the 2009 she discovered in much more to her liking. As a consequence she has bottled it (as a Vin de France as there is no appellation for the variety) having christened it Eau de Pluie, after the 'rainwater' style of Madeira popular in the USA during the 19th century.

The sparkling wines include the Brut Sauvage, a crémant based on Chenin Blanc, as well as the decidedly pinker Rosé de l'Aube. There is a rather sweet Cabernet d'Anjou named Tentation, made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Evelyne tells me these vines were planted on the advice of her mother's local doctor, who advocated taking a little more red wine. This 'almost-red' was the result, officially a rosé appellation but with a deep red-pink hue, and plenty of residual sugar in the mouth. There is a 'red-proper' though, the Anjou Rouge Une Emotion, a wine which Evelyne charmingly described as being capable of "bringing some spice to your sandwich".

Domaine du Closel: Tasting & Drinking

This is without doubt a very popular domaine; there have been few such estates for which I have received so many recommendations, directions or hints that I should visit, or at least try to taste some more of the wines, as I have for Domaine du Closel. I have had infrequent encounters with the wines here and there, although it was only in early 2011 that I was fortunate enough to meet Evelyne de Jessey-Pontbriand and taste my way through the range.

It is undoubtedly the Savennières that draws the most attention; tasting through a trio of vintages of the Clos du Papillon I was surprised to find so many oxidative characteristics in the wine, and although I can understand the appeal this might hold for many drinkers this cuvée would not - for the moment at least - be my first port of call within the appellation. Les Caillardières meanwhile, showed a touch more convincing style, a little more tension and tautness perhaps, whereas La Jalousie was straightforward, clearly an entry-level wine. As for the other wines tasted, these ranged from idiosyncratically interesting - such as the Eau de Pluie - to just idiosyncratic - especially the Tentation cuvée. Having said that I am looking forward to my next opportunity to taste these wines, particularly if tasting is complemented by an opportunity to spend more time in the company of the delightful Evelyne de Jessey-Pontbriand. (13/9/11)

Contact details:
Address: Château des Vaults, 1 place du Mail, 49170 Savennières
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 72 81 00
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 72 86 00
Internet: www.savennieres-closel.com
GPS: 47.383379, -0.655383

Domaine du Closel - Tasting Notes

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Domaine du Closel Savennières La Jalousie 2009: This is the entry level wine for this appellation, a wine "for conversation" as Evelyne de Jessey-Pontbriand puts it. A very restrained nose, quite tight, elegant though. A supple start on the palate, somewhat firmer in the midpalate, showing grip here, with a subtle fruit style in keeping with the aromatic profile. There is a brightness from the acidity, and good freshness, but a very reserved and restrained style of fruit. Quite grippy in the finish too, but not intensely so. This is well structured but it needs time to develop some interest I think. 15.5/20 (January 2011)

Domaine du Closel Savennières Les Caillardières 2009: From vines at the top of the vineyard, planted on schist and sand. These vines are older, at 15-25 years. The harvest is also later than Jalousie, "when the berries have a suntan" says Evelyne de Jessey-Pontbriand. Much more polished character on the nose here, a supple entry and then showing a greater rounded polish, lightly honeyed too. There is elegance here, but underneath there is also an appropriate grip and a solid backbone. Rather seductive in its tones, textured, this will be approachable sooner rather than later but it has the firm structure that will see it go on for years. 17.5/20 (January 2011)

Domaine du Closel Cabernet d'Anjou Tentation 2009: This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon which Evelyne de Jessey-Pontbriand says was planted for her mother on the advice of a doctor who said she should drink a little red. She lived to over 100 years, so it seems to have been good advice. The wine has a deep pink colour. There was no maceration of note, but it was picked very late so the fruit was very ripe, and the fermentation was quick (and presumably the colour leached out from the skins very quickly). On the palate there is obviously plenty of residual sugar here. It has a full style, certainly quite sweet, but also a touch grippy, very much in the firm and bold style typical of a Cabernet-based rosé. 13.5/20 (January 2011)

Domaine du Closel Anjou Rouge Une Emotion 2009: A wine which will "bring some spice to your sandwich", says Evelyne de Jessey-Pontbriand. The nose here has some schisty fruit characters, tinged with rubber, and it all seems quite soft and supple on the palate, with a rather straightforward grip. It seems to me to be a rather solid workhorse of a wine, an old-style Anjou Rouge and not really reflective of what I think the appellation can give us today. 13/20 (January 2011)

Domaine du Closel Savennières Clos du Papillon 2007: Alcohol 14.5%, acidity 3.9 g/l, residual sugar 3.5 g/l. Fermented in barrel, with 24 months in oak. It has a very honeyed and intense character on the nose here, and is without doubt showing some oxidative traits reflecting that long period in barrel perhaps. This style characteristic comes through on the palate as well as the nose. Nevertheless there is a good tension to it, with plentiful acidity running through the wine, its presence like a electric current when set against the more supple, oxidative fruit which washes all around it. 16/20 (January 2011)

Domaine du Closel Savennières Clos du Papillon 2006: Alcohol 14.5%, acidity 3.9 g/l, residual sugar 1.6 g/l. This vintage saw an atypical 18 months in oak. It has a fresher and yet more honeyed style than the 2007. Aromatically it is appealing, fresh and crisp, with lightly framed golden fruits. The palate has a good dried-fruit substance to it, firm but not unbalanced. It has some supple acidity, supported by some tannin at the edges, drawing in the sides of the mouth. This is very good. 17/20 (January 2011)

Domaine du Closel Savennières Clos du Papillon 2005: Alcohol 14.5%, acidity 4.18 g/l, residual sugar 0.66 g/l. The usual 24 months in oak for this vintage. It has a very polished style on the nose, and is certainly expressive, with golden honey-fruit, bright and open, with the same character on the palate. It is very firmly composed, full of grip and acidity, and it seems rather more flattering than the more recent vintages especially the rather taut and structured 2006. Perhaps the effect of a little more maturity, or the vintage? A bold, broad, style, quite traditional, and structured. It is also showed a very, very light seam of oxidation, but it is a minor trait here. 17/20 (January 2011)

Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.

Domaine du Closel Crémant de Loire Brut Sauvage 2005: Latest release. This is 10% Cabernet Franc, the rest is Chenin Blanc from Savennières vineyards which was not considered to be of adequate quality for any of the Savennières cuvées. The first fermentation is in steel then the second in bottle. No dosage. An interesting and rather bright style here, quite crystalline, with a floral fruit nose. Rather a delightful style on the palate, crisp and defined with a little hint of sherbet softness, but in no way overly intense or acidic. Certainly an attractive apéro style. 16/20 (January 2011)

Domaine du Closel Crémant de Loire Rosé de l'Aube 2007: Latest release. The rosé cuvée is made using purely Cabernet Franc. It has an attractive layer of crunchy fruit on the nose, with a raspberry character to it. On the palate it is buoyed by a somewhat foamy mousse but I do think it is being served a little warm which may well influence this. All the same, there is still an appealing freshness to it, with good acidity. Nice wine. 15/20 (January 2011)

Domaine du Closel Eau de Pluie (Vin de France) NV: Although declared a Vin de France and therefore non-vintage this in fact comes from 2009. It is purely Verdelho, a variety long-associated with Savennières. The wine is usually sold off but in this vintage Evelyne de Jessey-Pontbriand tasted it and liked it. This is apparently quite out of character for her, although she tells me her mother liked it. It has a rather lithe style, somewhat high-toned with aromas of pear, and this comes through on the palate also. It is fresh, structured, with some rather high-toned fruit. It has a slightly oily texture. This is certainly interesting. 14.5/20 (January 2011)