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Domaine des Baumard

It is perhaps no surprise that the vineyards of the Loire, this being France's longest river, give rise to a multitude of forms, styles and colours of wine. To me, such a broad diversity invites exploration, the uncovering of new vintages, new wines and new domaines, and of course the people behind these domaines. It is, for me, a happy and eternal pilgrimage of discovery. But such an approach will certainly not be for everyone's taste. Some wine drinkers prefer to home in on good domaines, those that turn out reliable wines year after year, sometimes of remarkably high quality, and then stick to them, leaving the adventure of new discoveries to others such as myself. Others might like to explore, but only through the recommendations of other, buying on the basis of point scores or published reviews of the wines.

Whatever the approach taken, there are a handful of domaines that seem to appeal to all drinking philosophies. Domaine Huet is one example; the wines are exciting enough to keep the explorer coming back for the latest vintage, of sufficiently consistent quality for those that want to follow vintage after vintage, and they certainly collect enough plaudits to keep the point-influenced happy. And Domaine des Baumard? I would suggest this is another domaine that satisfies a broad array of drinkers. The range here is broad, touching on a number of the Anjou appellations, and although not all pique my interest certain cuvées are sufficiently enticing to keep me coming back for more. But I know there are some who drink Baumard with much greater regularity than I do; several old acquaintances of mine, drinkers who rarely lift their heads to look beyond the vinous offerings of Bordeaux and Burgundy, still seem happy to occasionally dip their toe into Anjou through the wines of Domaine des Baumard. And I know others who religiously maintain vertical collections of some of the domaine's top wines, specifically the Clos du Papillon Savennières and Quarts de Chaume cuvées. As for points, the domaine itself, its reputation and the volumes produced are all large enough for the wines to come to the attention of the biggest global wine periodicals. The Quarts de Chaume in particular is no stranger to scores well into the nineties (on the 100-point scale, obviously) from these publications.

Domaine des Baumard: A History

The history of Domaine des Baumard is an interrupted one; in truth its most exciting phase has been during the past century, post-phylloxera, when the estate was revitalised by Jean Baumard before he yielded to his son, the incumbent Florent Baumard. Nevertheless the Baumard family has a long history of viticulture in the region, dating back to 1634. The parcels of vines cultivated by Florent's ancestors remain a central part of the Baumard domaine today.

It was after the vineyards of Anjou had been laid to waste by the vine louse phylloxera that Jean Baumard set about not only revivifying the family domaine, which he inherited from his own mother, but also the region as a whole. This he achieved through setting up a vine nursery, a new requirement in the post-phylloxera era. Beforehand, viticulture was a simple task undertaken by anybody with a spare plot of land, and new vines could be created very simply, by tip-layering. But with phylloxera endemic in the region establishing vines on their own, susceptible roots was no longer a viable option; the plants needed to be grafted onto the resistant American rootstocks in order to survive, taking the process of propagation away from the individual into the hands of the newly established nurserymen like Jean Baumard. A graduate of both Dijon and Bordeaux Universities, Jean took the reins of the family business in 1955. Alongside his nursery-work he also set about consolidating and expanding the domaine, starting it back on the road to success. As his own father Charles owned a cafe in Rochefort-sur-Loire, any wine produced was quickly sold and consumed. Most notable amongst his early achievements were the acquisition of over 5 hectares of land in the Quarts de Chaume appellation in 1957, followed by 14.5 hectares in Savennières from the Pirie family of Château de Varennes, specifically vines in the Clos du Papillon and Clos Ste Yves lieux-dits, in 1968. Today these two appellations, as I have already alluded in my introduction, remain stalwarts in the Baumard portfolio.

Jean's activities did not stop with the family domaine and nursery though, as there was an academic side to him as well. He took a chair at the École Supérieure d'Agriculture et de Viticulture d'Angers in 1955. He left in 1970, subsequently taking on the presidency of the Fédération Viticole de l'Anjou from 1971 to 1976; whilst in post he also breathed new life into the Union des Syndicats d'AOC du Val de Loire in 1974. And despite entering retirement in 1990, turning the reins of Domaine des Baumard over to the next generation, he has still found the necessary time to develop a popular oenology course at the Université du Troisième Age d'Angers, as well as pen the definitive history of the Quarts de Chaume appellation, Un Grand Vin du Monde: Le Quarts de Chaume (Société Nouvelle Imprimerie Paquereau Technographis, 2007).

Taking over from Jean in 1990 was his son, Florent Baumard (above left), who had returned to France to work alongside his father in 1987. Florent complemented his literary studies, which took him to both the UK and the USA, with a diploma in viticulture and oenology. His time spent overseas shows through, as Florent speaks very good English, although I have always found his French to be so beautifully enunciated that translations are rarely necessary. As for his work on the domaine, in the twenty-or-so years since he took control he has not shied away from new developments. There has been no grand expansion of the domaine like that his father pursued in the mid-20th century, but the change has been dramatic nevertheless. In particular, in 2006 Florent surprised almost everybody with a whole-scale move to Stelvin screwcap (as shown above right) for even his top wines, starting with the 2003 Savennières Clos du Papillon and 2004 Quarts de Chaume. And he has not wavered from this path, all vintages since those having been bottled using this closure technique. I applaud this move which will obliterate almost all possibility of cork taint; I only hope that the wines age as gracefully as they have done under cork for so many years.

The Domaine and Vineyards Today

Domaine des Baumard is tucked away in the village of Rochefort-sur-Loire, which lies at the northern end of the Coteaux du Layon appellation, just a little way north of Quarts de Chaume. It's not too difficult to find, situated on the rue Saint Croix, just to the left of the huge church which dominates this village; the dull grey lettering adherent to the stone wall, next to the large gateway, informs you of your arrival. Beyond the gateway, and along the immaculately gravelled drive, you find the old Logis de la Giraudière, acquired by the family in 1959. Here you will find the extensive cellars and a fine tasting room, which features an impressive if rather faded 18th-century mural, partly preserved. Like many such ancient works the reds, golds and richer colours fade with time, leaving just an array of blue, colder hues. Even so, it certainly beats wine-themed wallpaper!

The Baumard approach to viticulture is a notable one, and it does make it easy to spot the Baumard vines in any given appellation. They are trained in a fashion Baumard describe as vignes hautes et larges (sometimes abbreviated to VHL); the larges refers to the distance between the vines, a remarkable 3 metres between the rows and 0.8 metres between each vine, whereas the hautes refers to the high trellising system employed, taking the vines to a height of more than 2 metres, the object being to obtain a large surface area of foliage. During the vegetative period they see limited leaf-thinning along their base, but otherwise their is little intervention at this time, not even topping-off of the upper shoots as they reach for the sky above. Between the rows, the soil is alternatively ploughed and grassed over, a methodology the Baumards have been following for well over 30 years. The harvest is manual, and the fruit transported in small plastic cages to minimise damage.

As for the practices in the cellar, here the fruit receives a very gentle well-judged pressing before fermentation largely in temperature-controlled steel, Florent preferring materials other then wood, both for fermentation and subsequent élevage. So wines such as the Clos du Papillon will be fermented and held en cuve until ready for bottling, a process which brings minimal contact with oxygen; this character comes through in the wines which often have a very precisely expressed bright fruit character, with sometimes a suggestion of reduction. When it comes to the matter of malolactic fermentation though Florent is less consistent; his own father trialled the technique but was unimpressed with its effect, and Florent has continued with the same ambivalent approach. He does not actively encourage the malolactic, but that is not to say it isn't there; sometimes it is, sometimes it isn't.

The vineyards are scattered across a number of appellations, and it is worth considering each of these in turn, taking account of the various cuvées as we do so. And it seems reasonable to start north of the Loire, at Savennières, before crossing back over to Rochefort-sur-Loire to uncover the wines from the Coteaux du Layon and Quarts de Chaume appellations, as well as the laudable sparkling wines made under the Crémant de Loire appellation.

Having acquired their first vines in the appellation in 1968, today Savennières remains a linchpin in the Baumard portfolio. Florent has 14.5 hectares, divided almost evenly between two lieux-dits, the Clos du Papillon and Clos Ste Yves. The former of the two is perhaps the best known and seems the most popular with die-hard Baumard fans and neophytes alike, so it is perhaps worthy of consideration first.

The Baumard family own 7 hectares of the Clos du Papillon which itself amounts to about 14.5 hectares, the remaining 7.5 hectares shared out between three other owners. Its name is derived from its shape, which resembles that of a butterfly (or papillon), when viewed from the slope opposite. Underfoot the terroir is principally schist, varying with the slope; there are other igneous and some metamorphics at the top of the slope, especially rhyolite and quartz, whereas towards the bottom the soils take on a more sandy feel. The vines are principally Chenin Blanc, although there is also a small 0.8-hectare plot of Chardonnay near the edge of the vineyard. Although it seems plausible that the fruit of these Chardonnay vines were once harvested and vinified with the Chenin Blanc for the Clos du Papillon cuvée, today these grapes are destined for Crémant de Loire.

Baumard's other 7.5 hectares are contained entirely within the Clos Ste Yves, and the resulting wine may be marketed either as Clos Ste Yves (particularly in foreign markets or for the on-trade) or under the straight Domaine des Baumard label for other customers. The soils are schist, well suited to Chenin Blanc which constitutes 6.5 hectares, the remaining hectare being Verdelho. The presence of this variety will no doubt surprise many who encounter it here for the first time, as this is not a grape usually associated with the Loire. Florent says that his father acquired the vines by accident, having purchased them in the dead of winter, the absence of leaves and other distinguishing features meaning the several rows of Verdelho went unnoticed. It was only as the following year progressed, and the vines displayed their many differences, did he realise he had a hectare of Verdelho on his hands.

The INAO's position on Verdelho planted in the Savennières appellation is that it cannot legally be included in the wine, although it seems common knowledge that at Domaine des Baumard this ruling was, shall we say, not rigidly adhered to. Nevertheless, although it seems to be widely accepted that the fruit of these vines were once included in the Savennières assemblage, we should also note that this practice ended a long time ago, in 1986. The Baumards acquiesced, but rather than rip up the vines they elected instead to produce a Verdelho vin de table. This was despite the variety being oidium sensitive and slow to harvest; pickers don't like working the vines, Florent says, because the multitude of small bunches take a long time to collect, and the weight of fruit in the pickers' hods doesn't reflect the amount of work involved. Nevertheless Florent persisted, and today the fruit is used in the production of two Vert de l'Or cuvées, a sec and a moelleux (the latter first appeared in 1999).

Only one Savennières cuvée remains and this is the Trie Spéciale. A special release of Clos Ste Yves fruit made only in favourable vintages, this wine is produced from the result of selected tries through the vineyard, with further selections made after pressing. Only a handful of years have been deemed suitable for the production of this wine, including 1989, 1990, 1995, 1997, 2000, 2003 and 2007. As with the Clos du Papillon and Clos Ste Yves cuvées this wine sees a religious avoidance of oak and relatively early bottling, typically after about nine months rest on the lees. The malolactic is not encouraged here, as is the case with the preceding two Savennières cuvées. When taken together with other aspects of winemaking this can make the Baumard style, when it comes to Savennières at least, difficult to pigeonhole; avoidance of softening features - in particular wood aging and malolactic - typifies the old-school style of Savennières, wines that are firm, austere, bone-dry and capable of great terroir expression after a few years in bottle. Sometimes quite a few years. But those wishing to make Savennières more accessible, more attractive at a younger age, are more likely to employ wood and malolactic to take the harder edge off the wine; Baumard's philosophy - or rather lack of it - doesn't place him in one camp or another, although I would propose he leans towards the traditional. The 2002 Clos du Papillon would be a good example of the type.

The name of this appellation, which was legally defined in 1954, harks back to the era of share-cropping; at one time the owners of the slopes rented the land to the monks of Ronceray, the payment being one quarter of the harvest, hence Quarts de Chaume. The slopes are closely related to the Layon, and the local mists that result cling to the vineyards and encourage botrytis, and it is in the heavily botrytis-influenced vintages that the appellation reaches its apogee. There are only a handful of domaines involved with the appellation, sometimes tending very small plots of land. Perhaps one of the best is Domaine des Baumard.

Florent Baumard owns 6 hectares of vines in the appellation, planted on a complex mix of terroirs - Florent himself says about six distinct types - including schist, quartz, rhyolite and spilite. Further complexity comes not only from the unique vignes hautes et larges method of training the vines, but also from the differing ages of the vines, the clones and root-stocks, style of pruning, drainage and other variables. The fruit is harvested in several tries, yielding five or six distinct cuvées which Florent will blend into his single wine for the vintage. In terms of vinification, Florent's philosophy is very much the same as for the previously described wines; there is absolutely no role for wood, and they see a relatively early bottling after perhaps nine months on their lees.

The major difference here comes in the use of freezing in the production of the wine. I once described this freezing process as cryo-extraction, a term with which I am reasonaly familiar, but was subsequently corrected by Florent; this is, says Florent, not cryo-extraction but cryo-selection. It is not a concentration (which is how I originally described it) but a selection. In fact Florent regards it simply as an additional tri, no different to workers passing through the vineyard, selecting ripe or botrytised fruit, leaving unripe or non-botrytised fruit on the vine. In cooling the fruit he looks for less ripe, less sugar-rich grapes to freeze first, and when this is achieved he presses the fruit, thereby extracting juice from the ripe and richer grapes, whereas those less ripe berries which froze contribute nothing. He describes the juice obtained when pressing the frozen fruit as particularly clear, filtered, says Florent, by its passage through the pressed cake of fruit-solids and ice, the gateau de marc as he puts it. So the process not only selects, it seems, it purifies as well. Once finished the marc, complete with many unpressed frozen berries, is removed from the press and discarded.

So the Baumard Quarts de Chaume is made using cryo-selection, not cryo-extraction, and the purpose of freezing is, says Florent, not to concentrate but to select, and indeed to purify. On these points Florent seems determined and quite particular. The cynic in me wonders how certain Florent can be that the process purely selects, and whether or not the richer, pressed grapes yield just a little less water, thanks to the formation of ice crytals at these low temperatures, but I certainly have no evidence to suggest that this is the case. But then, you might ask, why would that matter, and why is Florent so concerned about the semantics of this technique anyway? It is, I believe, because he sees it as a natural process (selection), just like the manual tri to which he likens it, and not a technological one (concentration) that merely removes water, and he wishes others to see it this way also. Indeed, Florent specifically indicated to me that his cryo-selection is not to be "placed in the same bag" as other technologies which concentrate the must and "repair initial bad work", such as reverse osmosis.

On these lines it is relevant that some writers - such as respected Loire commentator Jim Budd - have been critical of Florent's approach to both viticulture and vinification with particular reference to the Quarts de Chaume vines. Training these vines hautes et larges allows each to carry a much larger number of bunches in comparison with the vines belonging to Florent's neighbours in the Quarts de Chaume appellation, and photographs taken by Jim in 2010 also suggested that the fruit did not develop the same level of ripeness or botrytis as a result. The implication was that freezing is a substitute for noble rot, the concentration of the juice achieved in the winery rather than in the vineyard. Another reason for Florent to be so determined in the use of the term cryo-selection and not cryo-extraction or concentration.

Despite Florent's erudite account, the technique remains at odds with what other proprietors holding or renting vines on the Quarts de Chaume vineyard practise. Nevertheless Baumard is a staunch advocate of the method, which he began using in 1987, introducing it to me as "superb". He admits he is the only one who openly declares his use of the technique, the obvious implication being that others put the methodology to use in secret, although Baumard certainly didn't use those words himself. It is also a process he does not undertake lightly, as he loses a very significant percentage of his harvest through freezing his fruit before pressing. In communications following our meeting in February 2011, he quoted a volume reduction which may be, depending on the vagaries of the vintage, anywhere between a gentle 10% and a stunning 80%. For such a massive (but non-concentrating, note) reduction in volume to be undertaken he must have confidence in the methodology and indeed he does, describing the technique as "the finest grape selection process we've done so far". In addition, not only does he find the organoleptic character of the wine to be improved, he also feels that the purifying effect described above obviates the need for enzymes or filtration.

Whatever controversies may surround this appellation and wine, there is no doubt in my mind that the Quarts de Chaume from Domaine des Baumard remains one of the finest examples of the appellation. The methods behind the wine are unique, and seem to me to be at odds with the Quarts de Chaume's proven capability of producing naturally botrytis-dried, wind-dried grapes of complex flavour, and as such they should certainly be put up for debate. But let us not judge purely on methodology, but also on results, as we cannot ignore the finished product. Judging solely by what is in the glass these taut and vibrant wines, with their remarkably crystalline and minerally-quartzy character, usually countered by their soothing, polished sweetness, are wines that simply have to be experienced at least once in your life. Despite acknowledging that the methodology is unusual, I have already voted with my palate; Baumard's Quarts de Chaume has been, in many vintages, sufficiently compelling for me to add it to my own cellar.

The writing may be on the wall for these freezing technologies though, in this appellation at least, as in late 2010 the Syndicat des Quarts de Chaumes voted against the use of the technique, and introduced new stipulations on fruit characteristics at harvest intended to discourage its use. It will be fascinating to see how Florent deals with this new development in the coming years.

Alongside the cru of Quarts de Chaume, which lies at the very western end of the Layon vineyards, Florent Baumard also possesses a substantial holding in the much more extensive Coteaux du Layon appellation. His vines are largely gathered around the Clos Ste Catherine, which lies at the top of Rochefort sur Loire, and also around Bourg Chevreau, a lieu-dit long associated with the Baumards, as this was where Florent's 17th-century ancestors lived. The terroir is schistous, as we would expect, the vines aged between 15 and 65 years and mostly trained using the vignes hautes et larges method described above, although some of the very oldest plots have a more traditional appearance. The harvest and vinification follows very much the same philosophies outlined above, and the wine is channelled into at least three cuvées, on occasion complemented by some purchased fruit from a grower in St Lambert du Lattay.

This purchased fruit does not contribute to the more elevated cuvées but only to the very serviceable Carte d'Or, an entry-level wine with a lighter, elegant style with not a prodigious level of residual sugar. Things become considerably more interesting with the Clos Ste Catherine, a much richer, deeper and more cerebral style. It is sourced from a single vineyard with sandy soils just outside Rochefort-sur-Loire. Perhaps the most notable cuvée, however, is the Cuvée Le Paon, a selection from the oldest vines only made when the vintage conditions were appropriate. No less concentrated than the Clos Ste Catherine here we have something more layered and complex, and it is because this rich complexity unfolds on the palate like the proverbial peacock's (or paon's) tale that the cuvée takes this name. On the label is a splendid blue peacock, a reproduction of one in the aforementioned 18th-century mural within the Baumard's Logis de la Giraudière.

There are a handful of other wines coming from Domaine des Baumard, in particular the Anjou Rouge Logis de la Giraudière, a 100% Cabernet Franc, as well as rosés made under the Cabernet d'Anjou and Rosé de Loire appellations. Even so, if we are looking beyond the three big-name appellations above for more from the Baumard portfolio, it is probably to the sparkling wines we should look.

These wines are all Crémant de Loire, an appellation which allows for Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and a select group of other varieties alongside the ubiquitous Chenin Blanc. I think my favourite in this line-up is the Carte Corail, a rosé made from 100% Cabernet Franc (occasionally with a little Grolleau). As for the Carte Turquoise, the base material here is an assemblage of Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc. A more recent addition to the range is the Brut Rosé, a slightly different take on rosé Crémant de Loire. This wine is made using only the cuvée, the finer portion of the juice obtained (generally the first 80%) from the harvested fruit, whereas the Carte Corail also takes the taille (the subsequent 20%, which generally contains more pigment and tannins and is usually regarded as being of lesser quality). Whatever the differences between the wines, the dosage takes all three to 6 g/l, as Florent says this allows better expression of the fruit.

Complementing these three non-vintage cuvées is the single-vintage Cuvée Tirage, which showcases Chardonnay over the Loire varieties, although it does include some Chenin Blanc in the blend.

I frequently find these sparkling wines a delight, but for me - and I suspect many others as well - it is the finely structured Savennières and vibrant, quartzy Quarts de Chaume that draw most attention here. And rightly so. Many of the other wines are worthy within their respective classes, but it is the Savennières Clos du Papillon and Quarts de Chaume that I find, in many but not all vintages, the most enticing. It will be interesting to see, now that cryo-extraction's (or even cryo-selection's) days seem to be numbered, how the latter of this pair will change in the coming years. (6/7/04, updated 16/2/09, 15/3/11, 6/5/11)

Contact details:
Address: 8, rue de l'Abbaye, 49190 Rochefort sur Loire
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 78 70 03
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 78 83 82
Internet: www.baumard.fr

Domaine des Baumard - Tasting Notes

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Coteaux du Layon

Domaine des Baumard Coteaux du Layon Carte d'Or 2009: A rather pale hue, but a very attractive nose, with a clean style of fruit. In particular it has a tropical character, with citrus fruits too, fresh and bright but not suggestive of great intensity; this is the lighter, entry-level cuvée. A very fresh feel on the palate, with a nice background grip, and as you would expect a rather relaxed, open fresh style of fruit without any real botrytis intensity. Nice acidity, lifted, overall fairly charming. More substance as it warms in the palate. A good aperitif style of Coteaux du Layon. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 15/20 (January 2011)

Coteaux du Layon

Domaine des Baumard Coteaux du Layon Clos Ste Catherine 2008: The terroir in this vineyard is schist, sand and quartz. Fresh but fairly concentrated hue here, a pale golden yellow. An attractive honeyed nose, with lifted yellow fruits and more golden tropical elements reminiscent of mango, with a lanolin richness. There is a very primary sweetness on the palate, but a very appealing concentration and a good acidity behind the substance of the wine. There is more tangible grit to this wine. It certainly has the potential to develop into something interesting with age. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 16/20 (January 2011)

Quarts de Chaume

Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2008: A very polished and approachable nose here, notes of creamed corn which I really like, also yellow plum and lanolin, all suggesting a reserved rather than big or golden style. Beautiful purity on the palate, fresh but with a beautifully polished surface to it, and underneath that incredibly fine and quartzy acidity coming through. An ecstatically balanced and fresh wine, with great elegance and a very classic style distinguishing the wine from the preceding Coteaux du Layons despite it not showing prodigious sweetness. It has a lovely bright, mouth-cleansing finish. As the complexity comes with time this will be a beautifully fresh and elegant style. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 17/20 (January 2011)

Savennières

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos Ste Yves 2007: From a warmer vintage says Florent, this is certainly more open and accessible than the 2006 Clos Ste Yves. A more gentle, honeyed and softer style of fruit, still with a stony freshness but also a slightly deeper note of cindery minerality. It presents a polished texture at the start although the midpalate is more restrained and withdrawn in terms of texture, showing a good balance though between its glossy substance and its fine, linear acidity through the middle. Very primary in its flavour profile although balanced and with all the right components. Good potential for the cellar. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 16.5/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 2007: There is a fresh and open style here, and a slightly more exotic expression of fruit, with a touch of mango and tangerine zest alongside a soft suggestion of minerals. Full, a solid presence at first, showing a rather oily concentration in the beginning but with good acid backbone coming through the middle. There is a nice freshness to it although the rich substance of the wine does detract a little at first, but as it reveals more grip it does seem to have a better composition in the mouth. There is some really good potential here although it needs cellar time. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 17.5/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Trie Spéciale 2007: From a selection of riper berries, made in only favoured vintages. A very attractive minerality on the nose, with ripe and fresh citrus fruits to the fore. Great substance on the palate too, showing a dense but less oily substance, backed up by a tingling, spicy grip. There is acidity although not quite the bright, linear character found in some of the other wines. Honeyed but dry, with a polished style, and a richer, fuller feel. A big spicy finish with some good length. Good wine. I think I prefer the crisper minerality of the Clos du Papillon though. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 17/20 (January 2011)

Quarts de Chaume

Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2007: Of these three wines this undoubtedly has the deepest and most golden colour, although still with a very pure hue rather than the richer orange tones offered by some domaines. Just a superb nose, full of citrus fruits, pineapple and mango especially, all very fresh and just leaping from the glass. And the palate doesn't disappoint, showing a very fresh and clean style of tropical fruits bound together by a fine mineral and acid core. And in the finish, an ecstatic flourish of tangible minerals, all plum skins and quartz mashed together. Sweet, but with a fine substance to back this up, with a long finish. This is superb. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 19/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2007: Tasted once at the domaine, and once subsequently. This has a great nose, showing more richness than the 2006, with golden fruits touched with caramel, and a delicious tropical style of fruit with notes of apricot, peach and mango, the latter of which translates onto the palate quite beautifully. Great depth here, wonderful style and substance, backed up by a lovely backbone of acidity, the exotic fruits swirled with lemon zest, tangerine, orange, jasmine and herbal tea, together with a fine, quartzy minerality. Very fine indeed, and very long; a superb Quarts de Chaume. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 18.5-19/20 (July 2010)

Savennières

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos Ste Yves 2006: A very pure style on the nose, the fruit character has a slightly dried and autumnal feel to it, a touch honeyed almost, but there is still a very fresh character lifting it out of the glass, together with a touch of smoky minerality. A rather austere and ungiving start though, cleanly structured with a firm midpalate presence of acid and minerals, but the fruit character seems rather low-level. Firm, austere, fresh, lightly mineral, a paradox of spring meadow, floral-fruit presence but with a firm, hard structure beneath. A touch more honeyed and supple towards the finish. Good, but not a striking style. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 15.5/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos de Papillon 2006: Certainly a touch more honey on the nose here. A suggestion of a softer polish to the fruit though, and still with a very clean, lemony fruit character. There is more texture to it on the palate, a more balanced presence for that, with a much fresher substance and presence. A lightly honeyed and creamy texture with a brighter, crisper, defining acidity. An attractive presence in the mouth, a very stony fruit style, overall an appealing composition. Certainly a step up. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 17/20 (January 2011)

Quarts de Chaume

Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2006: A very pure fruit style here, very typical of Baumard, fresh and pure at this stage of its life. Beautiful expression on the palate, moving towards liquorous but with a very pure and polished surface encapsulating layers of sweet, yellow-golden fruits and once again that beautiful quartzy, mineral acidity which defines the best wines of this appellation. So pure, perfectly formed in the mouth, this is a wine that majors on balance and beautiful definition rather than prodigious sweetness, although there is a lot of sugar here. It culminates in a lovely long, fading finish. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 18/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2006: A smoothly polished and elegant nose of lightly honeyed fruit here, and this is followed on the palate by a clean style characterised by moreish, yellow-golden fruits. There are some lovely acids in the background giving the wine a fine frame. This is pure, defined and very attractive, without doubt a good effort, and I am sure it would reward appropriate time spent in the cellar. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 18/20 (July 2010)

Savennières

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 2005: This has a much richer nose than some other comparable vintages of Baumard's Clos du Papillon, and the aromatics seem remarkably defined and pure, with a honeycomb richness which is carried through onto the palate. But here there is also a fine, tingling acid backbone which lifts, freshens and defines the wine's presence in the mouth. A fine effort, not austere but certainly well structured, elegant and harmoniously textured, dry and admirable. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 18/20 (July 2010)

Coteaux du Layon

Domaine des Baumard Coteaux du Layon Cuvée le Paon 2004: Described by Florent as a "classic" vintage, which is interpretable in several different ways I think. This cuvée comes from the same vines as the Carte d'Or but is a selection. Certainly a little more concentration on the colour, although it is a different vintage of course. The nose has a surprising lemony character, with a suggestion of minerality. This mineral edge comes through on the palate too where there is a firm lemon and yellow plum sweetness, and a layer of oily flesh which is just that little bit more convincing than the preceding wine. Good substance here, bright and fresh but with a very pure fruit character. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 15.5/20 (January 2011)

Quarts de Chaume

Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2004: A very pale hue compared to some other vintages, no doubt a reflection of the year. It kicks off with a vibrant nose, fresh and vivacious in character, with appealing leafy and greengage edges alongside a vanilla cream richness. On the palate it is very pure, lifted, with a tingling, exhilarating presence on the palate, almost as if there is a little residual carbon dioxide here, such is its vibrant freshness. It is pure, with a laser-like definition, and obvious vibrancy. On entry it is rather suggestive of the Mosel (!), an effect of the wines lightness and delicacy, but this parallel can only be drawn as far as the midpalate. Here, out from underneath the ripe but precise pear, melon and citrus fruit character comes a very subtly honeyed texture which brings you back to the Loire. It is gentle, slightly pithy and textured towards the finish, certainly with plenty of substance, but always seeming quite pure and slightly detached, yet really quite charming on the palate. Overall this is simply delightful, a very different style to the 2001 which was honeyed and rich with caramel texture and tones. But this has a much gentler finish, but with great purity and length, and it will age beautifully I am sure - although it gives so much pleasure now too. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 18+/20 (September 2007)

Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2004: This has a lovely style and sprightliness, and is the floral, elegant, vivacious side of Quarts de Chaume rather than the honeyed richness evident in the 2001. Pure, vibrant, nettly, less opulent but perhaps better defined, this is a fabulous, laser-like embodiment of what this appellation is capable of. This should age very gracefully indeed, and I have added some to the cellar with confidence that that will be the case. 18+/20 (July 2007)

Other Wines

Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Tirage 2004: This wine displays a vibrant colour, a very pale yellow, tinged with green, and with a gentle bead. The nose is fresh and lively, a mix of lemons rolled with stones, tinged with a little face cream and herby tarragon. On the palate there is a nicely rounded feel to it, although the focus of wine is the vibrant acidity, the lean and stony texture. Around it there is swirled the zest of lemon and lime, mixed with a sherbetty, soft, creamy minerality which gives the wine lovely breadth in the mouth. Lovely length of flavour through the palate, and a little persistence at the end. A good wine, not really showing much in terms of complexity, but there is a fine composition to it. Overall, very good. If I had any more bottles I would have absolute confidence that they could go for years in the cellar yet, but sadly I have just realised that this bottle was my last one. Tant pis! For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 16/20 (May 2010)

Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Tirage 2004: Unlike the preceding two wines (the Carte Corail, Cabernet Franc, and Carte Turquoise, Chenin Blanc), this single-vintage cuvée is based on Chardonnay, and the colour is different again, a very pale golden hue. It seems more full, as if of greater substance, on the nose, with a mineral streak. The palate indeed has a little more weight and fat than the leaner wines that have preceded it, a little coffee-laced vinosity with praline on the side, although here we still have a lovely freshness and lively mousse. Another bottle within a few days was just as fine. Very good. 16.5-17+/20 (July 2007)

Savennières

Domaine des Baumard Savennières 2003: This wine certainly has a more accessible character than the 1999, but there are problems here nevertheless. There is a lack of acidity that goes with the vintage, resulting in a bloated, flabby character. And the Savennières terroir doesn't seem to be showing through either, also perhaps a vintage effect. I don't find this too appealing at all. 13/20 (July 2007)

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Trie Spéciale 2003: This seems quite superior to the Papillon on the nose, presenting us with a lovely depth of character. It is honeyed and yet dry, rounded and yet broad and firm. There is also a good integrity and some typicité which speaks of Savennières, and although not quite as defining as I would like the rather low acidity does provide more of a framework than it does in other cuvées. 16+/20 (July 2007)

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 2003: This vintage has a slightly tinny nose at the moment, paradoxically accompanied by some rather fat fruit. It is not that expressive in truth. In keeping with the latter of these aromatic elements the palate has a slightly fat feel to it, not entirely unexpected, although it certainly doesn't stray into blowsiness. Rich, creamy, fruit-rich with low-level tangible acidity, this lacks the definition or structure I am looking for in this cuvée. A vintage effect, for sure. From a Loire 2003 tasting. 14.5/20 (September 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 2003: There are some appealing features immediately apparent on the nose here, but all presented in a muted, rounded, manner. Although it shows some early promise it becomes clear that this wine is less vibrant and precise than I would really like. And the acidity is unsurprisingly low, which lessens its appeal. A difficult vintage it seems. 14+?/20 (July 2007)

Quarts de Chaume

Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2003: Not the most impressive hue in the glass, the wine showing a gentle, shimmering, golden hue. Nevertheless, aromatically this is very enticing, mainly because of the trademark quartzy minerality which is present here, although in perhaps a lower level than can be found in some vintages, and this is compensated for by an evolved caramelly-biscuity richness which rather calls to mind the sweetness of the 2001. On the palate this all shines through very convincingly, the immediate and gentle sweetness nicely framed by the acidity and then the grip of the wine, the framework taking on a very firm, sharp, knapped-flint edge. There is a soft, mellifluous, rich, sweet and almost oily substance to the wine, but the structural elements balance this out with ease, so on the palate the wine seems, despite the sweet fruit-pastille intensity, quite lively and vivacious. In the finish it shows good length, and those caramelly notes return, together with elements of barley sugar, citrus zest and all the sharp, quartzy minerals I seek out. This is still a very young wine, but it is full of potential. From a Loire 2003 tasting. 18.5/20 (September 2011)

Savennières

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 2002: A pale yellow-golden hue in the glass. On the nose a blessed relief; where my memory of this wine is of one hard as nails, with an ashy nose, this has now clearly relaxed and is more overtly mineral and appealing, rather than the dirty ash of previous. The nose is bright, pure, with lemon-gold Chenin fruit, intense but clearly tightly defined, almost sherbetty. And on the palate there is a pleasant layer of lemony-pithy fruit along with bitter grippy elements. Quite challenging in the finish, showing lots of grippy structure, which I like, with a very long, sappy, mouth-watering finish, I was uncertain of this last time, but did see potential, but this time it is much closer to being approachable. Not quite ready yet though; this remains one to be left in the cellar. 17.5/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 2002: This wine has a rather pale hue in the glass, lemon-gold in colour, although I suppose my perception may be influenced by my expectations of richness and power. The nose isn't giving much away at first, showing a faint minerality, with more that a hint of wet ash. With time in the decanter it opens out, to reveal honey-tinged (although not sweet) minerals and straw. The palate shows nice weight on entry, good substance with a dry character, and plenty of bitter grip underneath it all. There is a good vein of minerality at the core, and a nice, rounded substance. The flavour profile is certainly distinctive, showing nettles, ash, chalky rock dust and more. A firmly composed wine, which in fact seems a touch hard on the palate at the moment, and I suspect it is going through something of an awkward phase right now. Nevertheless there is fine potential here I think. Leave well alone for a year or two I think. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Savennières

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 2001: A classic nose; warm and rounded, with straw and honey. Concentrated palate, some power, a bit grippy even. Flavours as for the nose. This is lovely. 16.5+/20 (May 2004)

Quarts de Chaume

Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2001: From a half bottle. A fine, burnished, orange-gold hue in the glass here. Aromatically this seems to be more dense, concentrated and more complex than I recall from previous tastings even within the last year. It kicks off with rich notes of biscotti and concentrated orange-honey fruit, opening out to reveal more peach and apricot, and then that seam of caramelly richness which has marked this vintage ever since I first tasted it. But despite this depth and complex concentration, it still feels bright and fresh. This is also the case on the palate, which is broad and intensely flavoured as the nose suggested, with a solid texture underneath the character, underpinned by a very fine lightly pithy, lemon-orange citrus bite. Very long. This is just lovely now. From my 2001 Vintage Ten Years On tasting. 18.5/20 (December 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2001: From a half bottle. What really attracted me to this wine, eight or nine years ago, was the sweet and rich caramelly seam that ran through it. And it is no surprise that these elements continue to dominate aromatically, the wine now showing a rich, orange-honeycomb-caramel character on the nose, with a fresh, lemon-toffee edge. Pure and rich on the palate, sweet and with all the fresh, bright, high-toned honey-caramel that the nose suggested, cut through by a dry acidity. This has developed brilliantly over the last few years, and is just gorgeous now. Although there may be little nuances of complexity to come it is hard to imagine this wine having a much greater impact on the palate than it does right now. It doesn't show the intense quartzy minerality that the best vintages of Baumard's Quarts de Chaume shows, but few wines can match this wines citrus-caramel richness. Remarkable. And very long too. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 18.5/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2001: Yet another taste of this magnificent wine, and as usual it does not disappoint. It still has that honey-caramel characteristic, still has a wonderful structure and still has all the freshness necessary to compensate for these rich features. Delightful wine which is still available for purchase at the domaine in the 750ml format. I, fortunately, have more than enough half-bottles already tucked away to keep me going for a while. Should drink for decades. 19+/20 (July 2007)

Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2001: From a half bottle. Mid-golden hue. Beautiful nose, of barley sugar and oranges, with chalky, talcy, mineral notes bringing up the rear. Full, creamy style on the palate, simply laden with exotic flavours; oranges and other citrus fruits, flowers, lychees even. Mineral and with great acidity, with a lovely weight and presence. Previously showing quite a caramel note, this is much less evident today. Drink over the next 20 years. Stunning. From a Loire Extravaganza tasting. 19+/20 (July 2005)

Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2001: The first half bottle from a case purchased at the domaine. Very youthful, obviously. Clean hue. A beautiful Chenin nose, dominated by primary aromas of honey, fresh green apples and wet wool, with a mineral edge. With some air the caramel aromas come through. Rich, weighty, absolutely beautifully assembled palate. Clean and vibrant, crystalline honey, pineapple and stone. Pure and elegant, fresh, but with an oily richness. Fabulous. Drink over the next two decades, and beyond I suspect. 18.5+/20 (October 2004)

Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2001: Tasted twice; once in London and once in Rochefort-sur-Loire. A splendid nose that just speaks volumes. The palate is no less impressive, stuffed full of honey, toffee-caramel and mineral flavours, with a floral complexity. Clean, beautifully textured, a superb length. This is fabulous. Should drink for decades. 19+/20 (May 2004)

Savennières

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos St Yves 2000: A beautiful, perfumed, elegant nose, which has a touch of honey and acacia. Warm and rounded palate, with straw and honey flavour, and a toffee thread too. Lovely clean finish. 16/20 (May 2004)

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 2000: A clear step up here, with a much more appealing character. It has more depth, and more interest than the two preceding wines. The structure is also attractive, but it lacks the sense of completeness and vivacity that I am looking for. For a Papillon, it seems rather run-of-the-mill. It would be interesting to see what it does in the cellar. 15.5+?/20 (July 2007)

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Trie de Spéciale 2000: A mid-golden hue here, and a fabulous nose; it kicks off with a blast of minerals, hard at first, then it softens up with notes of golden stone fruit and orange pith, and Mediterranean herbs, a complex melange of sage, thyme and bay. But there is no loss of definition to the edges, the wine keeping a very straight and linear polished-stone edge. The palate has developed a very stylish poise, with the almost exotic flesh suggested by the nose, cut through with notes of minerals and ash. Beautiful presence in the mouth, defined but polished, with a little tender-honey to the texture, but a dry and grippy structure underneath. Elements of straw on the palate. Most impressive of all, a slow unfolding of layer after layer of flavour on the finish, herbs and pithy fruit, spreading out like a peacock's tail, and a great length too. Excellent wine. It looks as though my very first assessment at the domaine was a little mean; my excuse is that young Savennières is difficult to judge! No rush here by the way. From my 2000 vintage Ten Years On tasting. 17.5/20 (November 2010)

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Trie de Spéciale 2000: An appealing golden colour with more than a little depth. Very mineral in character, smoky stone fruit, with nuances of orange and thyme. Rich palate, with the suggestion of botrytis-derived flavours, but bone dry, with plentiful and firm alcohol, and grippy structure, providing for a rather foursquare, masculine mouthfeel and presence. This is clearly in need of bottle age in order to soften and develop, and is bristling with potential. Very good. From a Loire Extravaganza tasting. 17+/20 (July 2005)

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Trie Spéciale 2000: Not giving away too much on the nose at present. The palate displays good texture, and superb concentration. Here is a wine that demands time in the cellar. 16+/20 (May 2004)

Quarts de Chaume

Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2000: Tasted in Rochefort sur Loire only. Very pure nose, but somewhat closed. On the palate it shows excellent concentration but no real complexity as yet. Correct structure. As with the 2001 this will drink for decades, but it doesn't quite have the edge. 18.5+/20 (May 2004)

Savennières

Domaine des Baumard Savennières 1999: This has a nettly, herbal nose which has some appeal. On the palate though it is exceedingly firm, perhaps even austere. It doesn't seem to have the depth to carry this through, though, and it seems a little hollow on the midpalate as a result. There is no tenderness here, although it may soften in the cellar I suppose. 15.5+?/20 (July 2007)

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 1999: This has a rich, lemon-gold hue in the glass, a fine sight which precedes an intense and fascinating nose, rich in aromas of honey, pastry, sweet baklawa, sponge cake and pistachio. It sounds rich and complex, as indeed it is, but it also has a freshness, a bright edge to the golden fruits that emerge from the glass. A fabulous palate, with all the delightful twists and turns of a finely botrytised wine but without the sweetness follows on; this has depth, great vivacity, talcy substance and a powerful punch through the finish, where it shows notes of ginger and liquorice. A wonderful wine for drinking now, I think although this may yet improve I might find it difficult keeping my hands off my other bottles. Once again, my score creeps up a little more. What a fabulous domaine. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. From my 1999 vintage Ten Years On tasting. 18+/20 (December 2009)

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 1999: Good, shimmering pale lemon hue. The nose is delightful, proffering great minerality, with notes of melon, pineapple, crystalline tropical fruits. Fresh, firm, minerally palate. The midpalate is packed with grip. Real tangible extract, lemony acidity, joyous presence on the palate, and a liquorice twist on the finish. Showing much more flavour, grippy structure and potential than when tasted at the domaine. This wine will do well in the cellar, for five years at least. Very good indeed, could be excellent. From a Loire Extravaganza tasting. 17.5+/20 (July 2005)

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 1999: A fresh and typical nose. Clean entry, showing little at first, but it has lovely acidity and structure. Then on the endpalate it fans out to reveal all the nuances that Savennières can offer. Concentrated and delicious. Needs two to three years in the cellar. 17+/20 (May 2004)

Coteaux du Layon

Domaine des Baumard Coteaux du Layon Clos de Ste Catherine 1998: A green tinge of colour here. Fresh nose. Surprisingly light and elegant on the palate, but this is the character of this cuvée I think. Needs time in the cellar to develop some complexity. May just reflect the weaker vintage. 15+/20 (May 2004)

Savennières

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos de Papillon 1994: A rich golden hue in the glass. The fruit character has now moved on to a very dried, honeyed style, with elements of minerals still, all lifted by a fresh, lemony spice. A good presence in the mouth, very dry in its style though, no cushion of softness from sugar here, but with a very appealing texture albeit with a little oiliness as well. A soft seam of acidity at its core, but what dominates most is the really dry, sour fruit character. Certainly a challenging wine, and not showing as well as it was back in 2005, this is much more in keeping with the bottle I had the year before that. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 16/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 1994: Rich, deep, golden colour. An amazingly expressive nose, with minerals and chalk, honey botrytis, lemon and orange, and powdered rocks. Great richness is the impression, borne out on the palate, but with an almost paradoxical bone dry structure. Pervasive, flamboyant, fresh, with a fine, honeyed texture backed up by rocky minerality and great acidity, this is superb. Showing much better than my last tasting, and my estimated drinking window from my last bottle may be a little conservative - this could go one for years and years. Excellent. From a Loire Extravaganza tasting. 18+/20 (July 2005)

Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 1994: Unlike the preceding wines this has a glorious deep-gold hue reflecting this wines age. A complex nose, yielding aromas of quince, honey and nectar. The palate is rich but dry which seems almost paradoxical. Structured and grippy. Showing well for a weak vintage. 16.5/20 (May 2004)

Quarts de Chaume

Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 1980: This has a fairly pale hue for the appellation, being just tinged with a lemon-green hue. The nose is complex, fascinating, but very difficult to describe. There is some sweetness here, a little like light Demerara sugar, but there are very organic overtones too. It has great depth, and intertwined here there are notes of straw and a dried, honey richness; it is a wine of character, but not necessarily great sweetness. Some aspects are quite bright - there is a layer perhaps best described as lime rubbed on metal, but overall it has great substance. The palate is broad and very complete, very nicely integrated, with richness but only gentle sweetness. Straw, funk and more play a role here, and yet the palate is restrained and forceful. There is a great lime-tinted texture on the finish and a broad, lingering length. This is excellent, especially as I was uncertain as to how well this wine would have held up - it has been in bottle from nearly three decades. I think this will drink well for some years yet, although it is unlikely to improve much further. having said that this is a robust wine still, as I finished this bottle 24 hours after opening, and it was then still holding up very well, showing great purity, definition, and delineation. This is a truly excellent wine. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 19/20 (June 2008)

Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.

Verdelho

Domaine des Baumard Vert de l'Or Sec NV: This is Lot 2004, so no real mystery on the vintage here. A really interesting nose, very different to Savennières which are of course 100% Chenin Blanc these days. It still has a very firm sense to it, but with a lanolin-tinged, green fruit twist. This austerity comes through in the palate where the fruit has a lightly creamy texture but there is a more dominating, steely composition in the background. Attractively austere in its presentation, holding up remarkably well under screwcap for its 7 years, and clearly capable of ageing a lot longer yet I think. Firm, austere, green-tinged finish. Certainly an interesting wine with a very unique character. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 15/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Vert de l'Or Moelleux NV: Lot 07-08. Very clean fruit nose, yellow fruit. Plums, floral notes, and on the palate a very fresh style, quite elegant, polished, with an attractive weight nicely balanced by a sense of grip and good acidity. As it warms it takes on a broader feel, showing tinges of cinder toffee, with a very pure fruit character moving into a slightly more tropical style, and notes of mango, vanilla, cream and pineapple. it is remarkably different character from the sec cuvée - I wouldn't recognised this as being made from the same grape. Nice tangible substance on the finish. I suspect it will develop very well for some time yet. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 17.5/20 (January 2011)

Carte Turquoise

Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Turquoise Brut NV: Purchased summer 2010. Yet again another of Baumard's crémants shows its best with a year in bottle. This wine still has a very restrained, green-tinged hue, but aromatically it is much more open and alluring. It still has an impressive bead to it as well. On the nose while it remains firm, with a lemon citrus streak in the background, there is also a delightfully full lemon-peach sherbet element to it, nuances with hints of tangerine zest. The palate brings a cream-soda feel to it, the creamy mousse sitting over some biting acidity, and overall the impression is very attractive even if it is rather challenging. But this direct nature means it is perfect as a summer apéro. Lovely. From a tasting of Loire Valley Fizz. 16/20 (August 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Turquoise Brut NV: Purchased summer 2010, and the same cuvée as noted above. On the nose this shows a certain steely reserve, all stones and nettles. This is the character most apparent on the palate too, at first at least, although through the midpalate it does develop a little fat, cream-soda richness. Fresh, stern but with a soft and lightly peachy centre, this makes very appealing drinking. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 15.5/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Turquoise Brut NV: This cuvée showcases Chenin Blanc. Tasted once at the domaine, and once subsequently. A clear and very pale hue and a strong bead. The nose here is clean, stony, pebbly and crisp. On the palate a very straight style at first, showing some floral, slightly green and nettly characters, later richer hints of nettly sherbet and sweet, perfumed Edinburgh rock, along with a rather heady, cream soda feel. It has elegance, with fine floral, peachy nuances, as well as a good acid backbone. A fine summery style. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 15.5/20 (July 2010)

Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Turquoise Brut NV: Current release. A Chenin Blanc cuvée, which has a very pale appearance in the glass. Fresh and nettly on the nose, clean and crisp. The palate is well composed, complete and balanced, with nicely fresh acidity. Very appealing. 15.5/20 (July 2007)

Carte Corail

Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Corail Brut NV: Purchased summer 2010. A very fine, pale pink, pale onion skin hue, and a plentiful swirling bead. The nose is enticing, full of peachy fresh fruit, nuanced with early tinges of honeycomb, and showing seams of red fruits sprinkled with mint, all delivered with a vibrant, sherbetty vivacity. Full, absolutely packed to the brim with fresh and vivacious fruits, a lively acidity underpinning the lightly fleshy fruit, and delicious hints of strawberry and cream, sprinkled with notes of black pepper. Long, biting, actually fairly challenging on the palate despite being also very seductive in terms of its forward fruit. Fine stuff. From a tasting of Loire Valley Fizz. 16.5/20 (August 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Corail Brut NV: Purchased summer 2010, and the same cuvée as noted above. Still a very pale and peachy-pink hue. It certainly seems more expressive than I remember it, and eclipses the Carte Turquoise somewhat. The nose is more expressive, full of pretty red fruits, still not with the harmonious and polished style that this cuvée can develop, but that should come with time. Good substance in the mouth, fresh, with a lively mousse and fresh acid core. Lovely drinking. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 16/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Corail Brut NV: Purchased summer 2010. A really appealing pale peachy-pink hue here, with a fine clarity and a plentiful moderately sized bead, giving a foamy white mousse. On the nose an attractive array of summer fruits with a creamy finish, cut though by notes of sherbetty sweetness and a nettly bite. A fresh and clean style on the palate, sherbetty-stony in terms of texture and also flavour, with more solid, polished, red fruit notes. A little pink-floral perfume to it as well, and some persistent sour red fruits in the finish. Certainly bright and appealing. Previous experience with this wine suggests this should improve in the cellar for a couple of years at least. 16.5/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Corail Brut NV: Tasted once at the domaine, and once subsequently. A very pale hue, peachy rather than pink, to this pure Cabernet Franc cuvée. The nose is not that expressive at the very start, but it does show some prettier fruit thereafter. The palate is very fine, with elements of blackcurrant leaf and fresh black berry fruits with a clean and crisp style. A really good effort. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 16/20 (July 2010)

Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Corail Brut NV: Purchased July 2007. This has a really delicate pale pink hue, and a plentiful bead although it soon settles down. The nose is leafy and curranty, with crunchy cranberry, all presented in a very gentle style. Fresh, full and lively mousse, a very direct and vigorous style. Finely poised, with subtle leafy fruit flavour. Really very good, better integrated than last year, a touch fuller and more complete. 16.5/20 (April 2008)

Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Corail Brut NV: Current release. Now we are in Cabernet Franc territory. This has a remarkably pale pink hue, a faint hint of peachy sunset. The nose also has peachy tones, with a leafy freshness. Delicately complete, fresh and balanced, but with a firm presence in the mouth, this is very attractive. A second bottle tasted within a few days was just as delightful. 16/20 (July 2007)

Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Corail Brut NV: Current release. A Cabernet Franc sparkler. Good fresh nose. Very delicate and balanced palate, with a touch of strawberry flavour. Good firm mousse. 14/20 (May 2004)

Brut Rosé

Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé NV: Purchased summer 2010. A fine, slightly bronzed tinge to this pale peachy-pink wine with its moderate bead. A fresh and evocative nose, with plenty of peachy-stony red fruits. Very firm on the palate, very confident, full of sherbet-tinged pink fruits and lots of bright acidity, zip and freshness. Crisply defined and very beautifully lifted, with a little zesty tangerine towards the end, and a lovely, slightly bitter, tingling finish. Lovely stuff, with an attractively bitter grip that keeps you coming back for more. From a tasting of Loire Valley Fizz. 16.5/20 (August 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé NV: Purchased summer 2010. A peachy, slightly bronzed hue in the glass. Incredibly fresh on the nose, all nettles and stones, broadening out to include a little strawberry-peach, and also a sherbetty-mineral edge as the wine warms up a little. Fresh, floral, crisp red fruit character on the palate, very dry but with a nice little edge of flesh to it through the middle before honing down into a more defined, pithy, almost grippy finish. This is fresh and lively, the perfect Sunday-afternoon apéro. 16.5/20 (January 2011)

Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé NV: Tasted once at the domaine, and once subsequently. This has a slightly more pink hue than the Corail; its make-up is also 100% Cabernet Franc. The character on the nose is more pretty though, and dominated by red fruits rather than black, with well defined strawberry and raspberry notes. Crisp and clean on the palate, elegant, with good mousse and acidity. This is a very good style. From a 2011 Baumard assessment. 16.5/20 (July 2010)

Cuvée Ancienne de Jean Baumard

Domaine des Baumard Coteaux du Layon Cuvée Ancienne de Jean Baumard NV: Current release. A non-vintage blend of fifteen different vintage wines. Unsurprisingly on the nose this shows complexity, no doubt derived from more mature vintages included. Nevertheless it is very fresh on the palate, gently sweet, elegant. Another wine that needs time in the cellar; five years or so. 16+/20 (May 2004)