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Domaine aux Moines

Savennières is not a huge appellation, the area available for viticulture as defined by appellation regulations being in the order of 300 hectares, although much less than this is currently planted to vines. Within this relatively small appellation there are two highly-prized crus, both on slopes leading down to small valleys on the north side of the Loire. The better known in recent years, largely due to the efforts of Nicolas Joly, is the Coulée de Serrant; less widely appreciated perhaps are the wines of its near neighbour, Roches-aux-Moines. This latter cru accounts for just 33 hectares, smaller than many individual Bordeaux estates for example, and yet within these 33 hectares - not all of which are planted up - there are maybe half a dozen vignerons each tending their own plot of vines. The largest individual holding within this highly prized cru belongs to none other than the Domaine aux Moines, home to mother-and-daughter team Monique and Tessa Laroche.

Domaine aux Moines: A Potted History

Tessa Laroche places the beginning of the Domaine aux Moines in the Middle Ages, when the vineyards of Savennières were first established by the prior of the Abbaye Saint-Nicolas d'Angers. Legend has it that they planted the first vines on land donated to them by the inhabitants of nearby Béhuard, a popular destination for the pilgrims of that era, in place of financial contributions. In truth it is not known exactly where these vines were planted (or indeed whether there ever was such a donation of land), but it does seem to be accepted that the two crus, Coulée de Serrant and Roche-aux-Moines, were the first to be planted in the early 1130s. And as the Domaine aux Moines today accounts for approximately one-quarter of the vines in the latter appellation, it seems a reasonable assumption that at least part of the Laroche vineyard may have first been planted as long ago as the 12th century.

Little is known about the history of what would become the Domaine aux Moines during the ensuing centuries, but clearly the domaine was well established as a residence and working vineyard by the 18th century, when a manor house was constructed on the site. This building most probably replaced others originally erected by the monks of Saint-Nicolas d'Angers, who no doubt tended these vines for many centuries after they had acquired them. This ecclesiastical association is no doubt responsible for the confiscation of the vineyards as a bien national in 1793, at the height of the French Revolution.

During the years after the Revolution the domaine appears to have fallen into disrepair, only for it to see some revival during the 20th century when it was acquired by the Benz family, who are rather more famous for their automotive rather than any viticultural achievements. Only two years later they sold it to Roger Faure and his wife who set about restoring the château and vineyards, the restoration funded in part by auctioning off a Renaissance painting discovered in one of the rooms of their newly purchased château. Roger Faure was killed in action during World War II, but his widow stayed on in the home she had so lovingly revivified. It was not until 1981 that her family decided to sell, and the estate was purchased from them by the appropriately named Laroche family in 1981.

The Laroche Family

Monique Laroche had settled in Angers with her husband in the 1970s, residing in a small house at the foot of the Roches-aux-Moines vineyards. Although a qualified pharmacist, she began to experiment with viticulture and winemaking, and only a few years later they acquired the Domaine aux Moines. Despite the work of the Veuve Faure the vineyard was in need of much attention, including extensive replanting, and this was undertaken by Monique who employed Eustache Poilasne, better known as the proprietor of the Clos des Perrières in Savennières, to assist her. During the 1980s she expanded the vineyard, adding several hectares of new vines to the older ones which dated from 1921, beginning the expansion which saw the domaine creep up towards the 9-plus hectares it covers today. Monique was subsequently joined by her daughter Tessa, once she had completed her studies of oenology in Reims. At first she assisted her mother but before long she became the dominant figure, as she assumed sole responsibility for tasks around the estate; she began in the cellars, taking full control of the vinification in the 2001 vintage. In the vineyard she shifted from the system of lutte raisonnée, which permits reasoned minimal use of chemical products, to one of organic viticulture. She began the process of conversion in 2006, gaining full certification for the 2009 vintage.

The Domaine aux Moines Vineyard

Although the Domaine aux Moines covers more than 12 hectares, as I have indicated above only about 9 hectares are currently in production, so accounting for about a quarter of the cru Roches-aux-Moines. The château sits uphill of the confusingly named Château de la Roches-aux-Moines, which is nothing to do with this estate or the Laroche family, but which is in the ownership of Nicolas Joly. Around it there are formal gardens, from the bottom of which there leads an ancient tree-lined path down towards the Cistercian monastery (now also owned by Nicolas Joly) sitting deep within the valley (or coulée as they are known here) at the foot of the Coulée de Serrant vineyard opposite. Beyond the gardens are the Laroche vineyards, all of which sit within the Roches-aux-Moines appellation.

The soils underfoot are complex, being dotted with areas of spilite and other rock types but in the main they are schist, and the vines are predominantly Chenin Blanc, this variety accounting for 8 hectares of planting. The remaining hectare is dedicated to red varieties, one-third Cabernet Sauvignon and two-thirds Cabernet Franc, which are ineligible for any Savennières appellation, Roches-aux-Moines or otherwise. Beyond these 9 hectares which bear fruit, however, there are other vines very recently planted. Another hectare of Chenin Blanc was added in April 2010, with plans for another 2 hectares in the immediate future. I think this 'expansion' is a safety net for Tessa, who recognises that some of her older plots of vines, now more than eighty years old, although still bearing fruit at present, will one day need to be replaced.

The Wines of Domaine aux Moines

Paying particular attention to the Chenin Blanc destined for the Savennières Roches-aux-Moines cuvées, the fruit is harvested by hand in several tries, as many as five passes through the vineyard, although this can vary greatly depending on the vintage. The ultimate yields are typically 30 hl/ha although in recent years figures have on occasion been less than 20 hl/ha. Once in the cellars, which run parallel to the château just to the north, the fruit undergoes a gentle pneumatic pressing before fermentation predominantly in thermo-regulated stainless steel, although there is also limited use of wood following the arrival of some 400-litre barrels for the 2007 vintage.

Continuing to focus on Chenin Blanc and Savennières, the grand vin is the dry and traditional Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines, a cuvée which until recently would have me place the Domaine aux Moines firmly in the old-school, austere-is-best category of Savennières estates, alongside Château d'Epiré for example. The wines come across as a little ungiving and a little challenging at times, with lots of deeply characterful Chenin notes to be found on tasting, including straw, wool and cheese, aromas and flavours that do not necessarily appeal to all-comers. I sense though that this description may soon be out of date; the handover of winemaking and other responsibilities from the untrained experimenter Monique, to the Reims-educated oenologue Tessa, seems to be translating through in the quality of the wines. Tessa has a broader knowledge I think, having undertaken professional studies away from home, and she seems to have an understanding of where Savennières sits within a national and global picture. The wines, previously rather solid and cellar-worthy, perhaps even rather rustic, have shown in more recent vintages a little more polish, and they provide a little more excitement too.

What really excites me at Domaine aux Moines though, perhaps thanks to my natural penchant for the rare, curious and exotic, are the sweeter cuvées of Savennières Roches-aux-Moines. First up is the tender Cuvée des Nonnes, with typically about 40 g/l residual sugar, produced in favourable vintages which in recent years include 2002, 2005 and 2007. My first ever opportunity to taste these wines, in 2011, brought considerable joy, but it was nothing like the waves of rapturous delight induced by the sweeter Cuvée de l'Abbesse, which may carry 80 g/l of sugar once finished. This has a truly exhilarating palate of gentle, well-honed sweetness offset by intense, crystal-like minerality which must surely relate, in some way, to that complex Roches-aux-Moines terroir. Like the Cuvée des Nonnes this wine has also only been produced in a handful of vintages, in this case 2002, 2007, 2008 and 2010. Distribution of both wines is, sadly, extremely limited.

Moving on from this Roches-aux-Moines cuvées there is also the red, a blend of  70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, made from fruit grown on soils of clay and shale and bottled as Anjou-Villages. It is certainly less exciting than the dry and sweet whites; one has to wonder why they persist, given the considerably more attractive white wines, and I suspect it reflects a personal preference rather than any strongly commercial benefit. (11/10/07, updated 15/6/11)

Contact details:
Address: 49170 Savennières
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 72 21 33
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 72 86 55
Internet: www.domaine-aux-moines.com

Domaine aux Moines - Tasting Notes

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Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 2009: This has been in bottle just two weeks. Decanted. A lovely purity of fruit here, with a honeyed streak offset by a rather lemony lift. Clearly it is showing a very primary character right now. Very cool and composed here, supple, with everything very well tucked in at the start. Then through the middle there is a building of every possible component, the fruit developing an open, more gritty, tangible style, together with a fine acid core and good grip. It seems very harmonious and on the finish it really rolls along very nicely. Rich, and clearly in possession of great potential. Alcohol 14.5%. From my 2011 Domaine aux Moines update. 18-18.5/20 (January 2011)

Domaine aux Moines Anjou-Villages 2009: This wine is one-third Cabernet Sauvignon, two-thirds Cabernet Franc, and is hand picked, unfined, unfiltered and has minimal use of sulphur. A nicely concentrated hue on inspection, very dark and youthful. A bright fruit nose, with some typically schisty-clovey fruit. A very supple texture on the palate, a good gentle weight at first, and then in the midpalate a deeper grip, a more dense substance, with plenty of acid and crunchy depth here. There is a rather wild character to the fruit on the palate, but the wine certainly has some depth. Good. From my 2011 Domaine aux Moines update. 15/20 (January 2011)

Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 2008: This vintage has a lovely, smoky, matchsticky, honeyed, mineral quality on the nose. It is quite a serious style, and this character follows up on the palate with a very harmonious character, and very polished and substantial fruit, yielding to a wealth of structure and grip beneath. Very balanced, the fruit always maintaining a very slight upper hand, but there is no denying the serious structure to it. This is remarkably elegant and despite the firm structure the very well-polished fruit makes this approachable now. Delicious. From my 2011 Domaine aux Moines update. 17.5/20 (January 2011)

Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines Cuvée de L'Abbesse Doux 2008: In this vintage the residual sugar is 90 g/l, the source being 100% botrytised fruit. Another beautifully composed style here, aromatically such fine purity with both the minerals and golden fruits showing a very expressive character, although in a different style to the 2007 here, as there is more honeyed depth. This comes through on the palate which is more firmly botrytised than the aromatics suggested, being all quince, apricots and almond sweetness. A dense, sweet, pastille character to it drives home this sweet intensity. An incredible wine, but certainly a different style in this vintage. It has that deep texture that both wines grip you mouth with. Remarkable. From my 2011 Domaine aux Moines update. 18/20 (January 2011)

Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines Cuvée de L'Abbesse Doux 2007: This has a much more concentrated style than the preceding 2005 Cuvée des Nonnes, not surprising when we consider this has 88 g/l residual sugar, and comes entirely from the first tri. The wine shows a much sweeter and concentrated character on the nose, all beeswax, honey and densely sweet tropical fruits. Beautifully flattering on the palate, very relaxed and yet bright and expressive, showing beautiful purity, with a dry, tangible grippy finish which fades into a good length. This is really very impressive indeed. The minerality and acidity and grip and sweetness and fruit have a perfect integration. Clearly expressive of a great terroir. From my 2011 Domaine aux Moines update. 18.5/20 (January 2011)

Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines Cuvée des Nonnes Moelleux 2005: This wine originates from the second and third tries in this vintage. The residual sugar is 44 g/l here, the acidity 6 g/l. An attractive style here, certainly presenting a softer and more honeyed style on the nose, with golden-sweet fruits. It has freshness as well though, the mineral suggestions keeping it that way, the sweetness carrying a beeswax suggestion. A lovely softness on entry. The structure of the wine is still there, all bright acid with a fine, volcanic mineral feel, and there is a tannic grip to it as well, but over it all there lies a cushion of sweetness which seems to work very harmoniously. A deliciously honeyed style. A lovely wine that balances grip with fresh sweetness, yet incorporates all the minerality of the appellation. This works quite beautifully. From my 2011 Domaine aux Moines update. 18/20 (January 2011)

Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 2004: Quite an expressive nose here, a very yellow style of fruit, with a seam of stony minerality to it, as if it were a blend of yellow plum and limestone, with the slightest hint of matchstick. There follows a very polished and harmonious style on the start of the palate, the bold flavours tightening down into the midpalate where it shows considerably more substance, minerality and firm structured acid backbone. Completely balanced, although in a very bold style, the forceful substance cut though by an acidity that brings a lot of cellaring potential here. A good, firm, sappy finish, bold and long. From my 2011 Domaine aux Moines update. 17/20 (January 2011)

Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 2003: A very hot summer, the heatwave vintage. A small harvest. Very expressive notes of honey on the nose here, with that smoky, quartzy, minerally edge to it. But it is the bold sweetness that seems most apparent, with a firm density and almost confit yellow plum element to it. Lots of firm and tangible extract on the palate as well, this is clearly very concentrated. It undeniably shows the character of the vintage, with a very bold substance but ultimately a very dry and firm structure underneath. Impressive but not so typical of the domaine I feel. There is acidity, so not a wine to be automatically avoided on account of the vintage though. Alcohol 15%. From my 2011 Domaine aux Moines update. 16.5/20 (January 2011)

Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 1999: This vintage is not so expressive as some of the other wines shown here. There is a sweetness to the fruit, a golden edge of honey over plum, but also the same matchsticky minerality. A very reserved and dry character on the palate. The definition of the texture is there but the flavours are rather more reticent as they were on the nose. There is certainly a rather more closed character here than the younger wines. It can be coaxed out with a little effort. Not a great length either. A difficult wine. From my 2011 Domaine aux Moines update. 16/20 (January 2011)

Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 1998: A touch more expressive than the 1999. A light minerality at its core, with some rather restrained golden fruits, although it is also suggestive of a very bold substance. The palate certainly has a rather cooler and yet better filled-out style, showing a building substance into the midpalate with some golden, lightly crunchy but very concentrated fruits. Quite grippy in fact, a lightly chewy style into the finish. Even at thirteen years of age I think this still warrants being left alone in the cellar, although it is nearing approachability. From my 2011 Domaine aux Moines update. 17/20 (January 2011)

Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 1994: A noticeably more golden hue than the younger wines, and a fresh, chalky-minerally nose here too. The palate is dry, with a honeyed suggestion to the flavour profile although with a very bold, beeswaxy, stony quality to it. It has a richness of flavour but not too much sweetness, and a character which slowly evolves and unfolds in the mouth, showing a good supporting but not domineering structure. A yellow-plum and vanilla finish. This is certainly attractive, and is ready to drink now. From my 2011 Domaine aux Moines update. 17/20 (January 2011)

Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 1993: A very rich and golden hue on inspection. The nose is immediately reminiscent of a mature Quarts de Chaume, one of a similar age too. It has a suggestion of honey, and minerals, together with that difficult to describe woolly-cheesy character which is so typical of ageing Chenin, all presented in a very dry frame. This is the case on the palate, which has grip and structure, a dry character but with well rounded edges and a rich feel. There is also a little hint of oxidation, enough to add to the overall complexity without detracting from the style of the wine. Quite nicely held together, challenging wine, with a lot of charm if not elegance. And certainly both true to its appellation, and interesting to drink. Very good. 16.5/20 (August 2007)

Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 1992: A similar style to the 1994 on the nose, where the wine shows some very elegant and substantial honeyed fruit aromas but with a very dry suggestion around it; these are concentrated wines, intense rather than sweet. Very harmonious on the palate, full and showing some rather flattering substance, and a very well-defined character. Rather a supple style, a little more fleshy and generous than the 1994, with a fresh acidity at its core. Very appealing and ready to go now. Dry and very long in the finish. From my 2011 Domaine aux Moines update. 17/20 (January 2011)

Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 1992: This wine has a fairly mature hue, and a complex nose, full of Chenin funk, notably straw and spiced and candied fruits, mineral charged, with a sweet, glycerine suggestion. There is plenty of structure, and quite a bit of grip especially on the finish. It has firmness, austerity, in fact it is a touch muscular and rather ungiving, and has a warm finish. It has a touch of honey and a full body, rather appealing vinosity. Although rather brutal there is a lot of detail and character here and this is one that should certainly appeal, to hardcore Chenin fans at least. 16+/20 (August 2007)

Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 1991: Not such a deep hue as the two other wines tasted today, the 1992 and 1993. Quite straight on the nose, which has a warm, Chenin funk to it, with notes of stone and straw, and there is certainly a cheesiness to it as well. The palate is rather light-footed and perhaps doesn't quite have the concentration of character that one might expect, although it has a really well polished texture and vinous, almost resinous texture that is devoid of sharp edges, but has a good body and grip beneath. Like the wines that follow there is a touch of rawness to it rather than finesse, but this is still a fascinating bottle, with an appealing, elegant detachment. Good. 16.5/20 (August 2007)