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Domaine aux Moines

Savennières is not a huge appellation, with the area available for viticulture as defined by appellation regulations about 300 hectares, although at the time of writing this profile there are only about 140 of those hectares planted to vines. And within the appellation there are just two crus, both on slopes leading down to small valleys on the north side of the Loire. One is Coulée de Serrant, most obviously associated with the domaine of the same name, the Clos de la Coulée de Serrant. The other is Roches-aux-Moines, and this latter cru accounts for just 33 hectares, smaller than many individual Bordeaux estates. And yet within these 33 hectares there are a number of vignerons each tending their own plots of vines.

The Domaine aux Moines is one of these estates, and the vines here cover about eight hectares of schistous Loire countryside, so accounting for about a quarter of the cru, the remainder in the ownership of Claude Papin at Pierre-Bise, Nicolas Joly at the aforementioned Clos de la Coulée de Serrant, and others. The domaine in question is located at the top of the slope, occupying a commanding position at the highest point of the Roches aux Moines cru. Although once in the ownership of a gentleman named Benz, who was more closely associated with motor manufacturing than viticulture, today the estate is exploited by mother-and-daughter team Monique and Tessa Laroche, the latter a trained oenologist. Their vines are mostly Chenin, this being the sole variety eligible for the Savennières appellation, and they have on average an admirable 50 years of age. There is, however, also a single plot of Cabernet Franc which, once vinified, is bottled as Anjou-Villages.

Once harvested the fruit undergoes a gentle pneumatic pressing before being fermented in stainless steel with temperature control. Tessa Laroche follows the direction of the Optivigne Charter, limiting the use of new oak, extensive maceration and malolactic fermentation. In fact there are just 25 barrels gracing the property, allowing for a small amount of wine to go into oak for subsequent blending back into the wine. Essentially the estate produces a single wine of note, which I suppose may be considered the grand vin, the dry and traditional Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines, although in some vintages there is also the tender Cuvée des Nonnes, with perhaps 40 g/l residual sugar, or perhaps the sweet Cuvée de l'Abbesse which may attain 80 g/l of sugar once finished. And of course there is also the red, 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, made from fruit grown on soils of clay and shale. In total the output amounts to just 2500 cases per year, which assuming all the harvested fruit is vinified and bottled rather than being sold off suggests Tessa Laroche is limiting the yields to about 28 hl/ha. Happily for fans of aged wine, she and her mother have a predilection for holding back some wine and selling in its maturity, with some bottles for sale at the domaine already having fifteen years of bottle age.

My experience of the wines includes three such mature vintages which do indeed have fifteen years (or thereabouts) of bottle age. The style is firm and structured, and perhaps a little ungiving and a little challenging at times, with lots of deeply characterful Chenin notes to be found on tasting; straw, wool and cheese are here in abundance. Because of that they are undoubtedly interesting wines, although as far as Savennières is concerned there are other wines which perhaps show what is really capable with the vines of Roches-aux-Moines, perhaps with more finesse or lifted elegance. Nevertheless, these are good wines which deserve the attention of any fan of the Loire. (11/10/07)

Contact details:
Address: 49170 Savennières
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 72 21 33
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 72 86 55
Internet: www.domaine-aux-moines.com

Domaine aux Moines - Tasting Notes

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Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 1993: A very rich and golden hue on inspection. The nose is immediately reminiscent of a mature Quarts de Chaume, one of a similar age too. It has a suggestion of honey, and minerals, together with that difficult to describe woolly-cheesy character which is so typical of ageing Chenin, all presented in a very dry frame. This is the case on the palate, which has grip and structure, a dry character but with well rounded edges and a rich feel. There is also a little hint of oxidation, enough to add to the overall complexity without detracting from the style of the wine. Quite nicely held together, challenging wine, with a lot of charm if not elegance. And certainly both true to its appellation, and interesting to drink. Very good. 16.5/20 (August 2007)

Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 1992: This wine has a fairly mature hue, and a complex nose, full of Chenin funk, notably straw and spiced and candied fruits, mineral charged, with a sweet, glycerine suggestion. There is plenty of structure, and quite a bit of grip especially on the finish. It has firmness, austerity, in fact it is a touch muscular and rather ungiving, and has a warm finish. It has a touch of honey and a full body, rather appealing vinosity. Although rather brutal there is a lot of detail and character here and this is one that should certainly appeal, to hardcore Chenin fans at least. 16+/20 (August 2007)

Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 1991: Not such a deep hue as the two other wines tasted today, the 1992 and 1993. Quite straight on the nose, which has a warm, Chenin funk to it, with notes of stone and straw, and there is certainly a cheesiness to it as well. The palate is rather light-footed and perhaps doesn't quite have the concentration of character that one might expect, although it has a really well polished texture and vinous, almost resinous texture that is devoid of sharp edges, but has a good body and grip beneath. Like the wines that follow there is a touch of rawness to it rather than finesse, but this is still a fascinating bottle, with an appealing, elegant detachment. Good. 16.5/20 (August 2007)