The Angel’s Share: Domaine de la Noblaie La Part des Anges, 2003 – 2022
The sun is high in the sky, throwing a blanket of shimmering heat haze across the town of Chinon and its vineyards. Dressed for the weather in an unfussy grey t-shirt, blue shorts and rather smart M. Moustache trainers, made from eco-responsible suede and recycled materials, Jérôme Billard pauses for a moment beneath a freshly painted mural of a hot air balloon. It is a suitable image for the end wall of his cellars, which sit only a stone’s throw from the banks of the Vienne; Montgolfiers, as they are sometimes referred to in France, a nod to hot air balloon pioneers Joseph-Michel and Jacques-Étienne Montgolfier, are frequent sights over the valleys of the Loire and its tributaries. After all, what better way to view the great châteaux of this region than from the air?
And yet, while I admire it, I am not here to make an appraisal of Jérôme’s latest artistic initiative. Or his taste in fancy suede trainers either. I am here to make, with Jérôme’s help, a deep dive into an under-appreciated facet of the Chinon appellation. Widely known for its red and rosé wines, fashioned exclusively from Cabernet Franc (Cabernet Sauvignon is also permitted, but wisely few make use of it), an increasing number of domaines in this region also turn out a white wine, made from Chenin Blanc. It is one of a surprisingly small number of appellations in the Loire where both varieties are permitted, and of these I think it is the only appellation in which Chenin plays second fiddle to its red compatriot.
Second fiddle. But not second class.
Despite the whites being a niche interest, Jérôme Billard makes not one but two cuvées, and they rank among the best in the appellation. On this visit to the domaine I took a seat at his table as he pulled the cork on close to twenty vintages of his leading white cuvée. Admirably, Jérôme did not hold back, resisting the temptation to select – as some might do – only a handful of the better vintages for tasting. We took a look at every vintage he has made, from grands années to petits millésimes, from perfect seasons to those blighted by frost, mildew or harvest rains. It provided a fascinating insight into the past two decades of Loire vintages, and how Jérôme’s winemaking skill has evolved over this time period.
Before I launch into my account of the tasting though, I think I little background on the domaine, and on Jérôme himself, is perhaps warranted.
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