Loire 2017 at Three Years: Sparkling, Demi-Sec & Moelleux
In previous instalments of these tasting reports at three years I have naturally concluded with a few words on the vintage’s sweet wines, a report occasionally hampered by limited access (at this early stage) to what is often a small number of wines. To pad it out a little, I also include tasting notes on any demi-sec wines I encounter. I have always felt a little uncomfortable about that, because although the demi-sec and moelleux wines share one obvious feature – residual sugar – I view them as completely distinct styles which have different purposes, and they should not really be lumped under one banner.
It is perhaps a side-effect of the Covid-19 pandemic, but I am learning (or trying to learn, anyway), to ‘go with the flow’ a little more often. And so rather than bristling at this unholy union of demi-sec and moelleux, I thought I would include my tasting notes on any sparkling wines I encounter here as well. So welcome to my final report on the 2017 vintage in the Loire Valley, featuring sparkling, demi-sec and moelleux wines. Indeed, the only style missing for a full house is fortified – if you know of anyone in Chinon or nearby making Cabernet Franc in the vin doux natural style, do please let me know.
The Wines
I begin with the sparkling wines, and three strong cuvées from the Vouvray appellation. Out in front is Vincent Carême, with his 2017 L’Ancestrale (which has since been renamed Plaisir Ancestral, starting with some bottles of the 2018 vintage). This is such a reliably enjoyable cuvée I would buy it blind if I had to, and a taste of the 2017 does nothing to make me think that would be a bad idea. A notch behind is the straight 2017 Brut from François et Julien Pinon, another domaine turning out supremely reliable wines. After François passed away earlier this year Julien has taken over the domaine; his first test, within weeks of his father’s death, was a very destructive frost, one which returned over several nights, making protecting the vines a huge challenge. I hope Julien was able to get some candles lit among the vines, but I suspect it may have all proved a bit much for him.
