Loire 2009 at Fifteen Years: The Wines
Following on from my introduction to this Loire 2009 tasting at fifteen years of age, below I present 40 new tasting notes on wines from this vintage.
I open with an exceptional 2009 Vouvray Pétillant from Domaine Huet, before getting stuck into the white wines, with a quartet of 2009s from Domaine de la Pépière. Here I am immediately reminded of my prior comments on Jo Pithon speaking to us from the past, because at this time Domaine de la Pépière was entirely under the control of Marc Ollivier, this being before Rémi Branger and Gwénaëlle Croix came on board. It was also a time when his Les Gras Moutons cuvée was cobbled together from vines within and outside this famed lieu-dit, as noted by the Cuvée Eden suffix. On this occasion the 2009 Les Gras Moutons showed exceptionally well, pipping the 2009 Clisson to the post, squaring up to one of Marc’s experimental long-lees-aged cuvées, the 2009 Trois, which spent three years on the lees (hence the name) before bottling.
Sticking with Muscadet, and credit where credit is due, while Chéreau-Carré never enjoyed the cult following afforded Domaine de la Pépière I have often found the confident and well-structured wines of this domaine to age well. That continues to be my impression here, the 2009 Château l’Oiselinière de la Ramée putting the 2009 Clos des Briords to shame.
Looking to later-ripening varieties, the wines from Anjou provide us with a cult-name masterclass, with a quartet of cuvées from Richard Leroy, Jo Pithon and Mark Angeli.
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