Domaine du Haut Bourg, 2019 Update
The Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appellation seems to get all the love in the world of Muscadet, but wise drinkers also turn to the Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu at least once in a while. Domaine du Haut Bourg, run by the Choblet brothers, is one of the appellation’s leading domaines, producing not only sound entry-level and single-vineyard sur lie Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu but also, in Signature and Origine, a couple of style-defining long lees-aged cuvées. This year sees the addition of a new single-vineyard cuvée to their portfolio, in the shape of La Désirée du Haut Bourg.
Like many in the region the Choblets have had it tough in recent years, losing 70% of their crop to the frost in 2016, and another 20% in 2017. With no such problem in the 2018 vintage yields are back up to normal figures. Yes, they had some problems with mildew during the very wet weather in late May and early June, but nothing Nicolas and Hervé could not handle. With a pre-emptive approach to treatments, they came through with their crop (and their livelihood) intact. As did the vast majority of Ligérian vignerons in this vintage, as it happens.
The Wines
After a quick retaste of the 2017 Le Pavillon I took a look at a range of wines here from 2018. Many of these I have already dropped into my Loire 2018 report, leaving just a handful from this vintage for me to report on here, followed by some older vintages. In 2018 the domaine-level Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu is very fine, while the subtly renamed 2018 Pavillon du Haut Bourg takes it up a notch. Things get really interesting, however, with the introduction of a new cuvée, the 2018 La Désirée du Haut Bourg; this is the domaine’s fourth single-vineyard cuvée, alongside Pavillon, Signature and Origine.
