Château Lynch-Bages: Tasting & Drinking
Before I finish up this profile of Château Lynch-Bages, I should return to the thoughts expressed in my opening paragraphs. Although my tasting colleagues of old faithfully put their money into “Lunch-Bags” in every vintage, my tastings of more recent vintages – particularly during the early part of the first decade of the 21st century – suggested something different to me. I recognised that while quality here was very high, the ultra-reliability my fellow Bordeaux fans perceived seemed to have faded a little. Yes, there were good wines here, with appropriately favourable scores, and they would stand up well in a comparative tasting with other Pauillac estates ranked as fifth growths. But in my opinion they were not comparable with the two Pichons, which were performing very well, let alone the first growths, and there are other estates ranked at the same level that are ahead of Lynch-Bages.
Nevertheless, in the most recent of vintages I have seen more polish and balanced concentration from Château Lynch-Bages than before, and some particular successes – in admittedly favourable vintages such as 2009 and 2010, and other vintages since – has forced me to accept that there is certainly something very special here. Indeed, since the completion of the new cellars in 2020 I think the quality here has once again hit exemplary heights.
Looking back at recent vintages, early samples of 2022 (with a really strong second wine as well) and 2020, a stunning 2019 and an excellent 2018 all stick in the memory. I also think the 2023 was very high quality, displaying what the vintage was capable of. Even the 2024 showed potential when tasted from barrel, and such an achievement in this challenging vintage is noteworthy. Many of these recent vintages outclass others from earlier in the second decade of the 21st century, although having said that these earlier wines were also of very good quality, and if you were to offer me a glass I would certainly not refuse. These other strong vintages are led by 2016, with 2015 and 2014 also showing well.
Looking further back, as noted above 2010 and 2009 were also top-notch, not to mention a superlative 2005, although less famed vintages including 2008 and 2006 should not be overlooked. Also watch out for Echo de Lynch-Bages, a second wine which seems to combine dark and concentrated fruit with freshness and accessibility, an almost paradoxical combination which drinks much earlier than the grand vin. The white Blanc de Lynch-Bages can also drink well.
Coming back to the grand vin, I also rather enjoyed the 1961 vintage back in 2007. But then who wouldn’t? Here’s to more vintages like that one in the future . (24/7/04, updated 30/3/07, 18/8/11, 23/10/13, 30/7/23, 18/3/26)
