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Pierre Luneau-Papin Update, February 2011
Pierre Luneau-Papin
This update relates to wines tasted in February 2011.
For more on this estate, including all my relevant tasting notes, see my Pierre Luneau-Papin profile.
With a huge wad of new tasting notes on 2009 Bordeaux piled up on my desk (metaphorically speaking - the reality is they're in a spreadsheet on my hard drive), dozens of Bordeaux updates to be made, vertical tastings of Brane-Cantenac, Phélan-Ségur and other châteaux waiting to be written up following my visit to the region, and - by the time I've finished at this week's tasting at The Institute of Masters of Wine - a whole bunch of new 2007 Bordeaux notes ready to go, it's only natural that I should get stuck in with....err, Muscadet.
Please let me explain. The truth is, despite all my recent Bordeaux tastings, I still have quite a
pile of tasting notes from one of my regular visit to the Loire Valley earlier
this year, in particular quite a few following my tastings of the latest releases
from a number of top Muscadet estates. There are updates yet to come on
Domaine de l'Ecu (Guy Bossard),
Domaine de la Louvetrie (Jo Landron) and
Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier). There have been
significant developments at some of these estates over the last year or two
(including new blood at l'Ecu and Pépière), so I'm looking forward to publishing
my notes and making the appropriate updates. I'm kicking off though with what is almost always the grandest of all
Muscadet tastings, the wines of Pierre Luneau-Papin (pictured left). The last time I
tasted through the range with Pierre-Marie, Pierre Luneau-Papin's son,
was two years ago. At that time we tasted
multiple cuvées and vintages, right back to the 1982 L d'Or. This tasting
was not quite as far-reaching, but was no less thrilling, taking in not one but
two new cuvées.
Luneau-Papin: Tasting the Wines
As is the norm we started with a range of brut de cuve samples, essentially what might be referred to elsewhere as barrel samples. But whereas Bordeaux barrel samples are usually prepared as representative of the final blend (some of course are nowhere near that, and of course it is often said some are much more than the final blend, if you see what I mean), these are true barrel samples. Or, to be more correct, they are cuve samples, as much Muscadet is fermented in subterranean cement cuves. Whatever the terminology, in many cases these samples are not blended to represent the final wine. I view my assessment of these brut de cuve samples as analogous to walking through a cellar and tasting barrel after barrel; each one is in some way related to the finished wine, but cannot be used to accurately describe it. I find tasting them enjoyable, educational and instructive, as I learn something about the vintage and the relevant lieu-dit or terroir, but I resist the temptation to label them as the finished wine for this reason....even though some, such as sample number three, are perhaps more representative of a particular wine than this introduction suggests.
I wonder if a move away from the en primeur hyperbole to a more circumspect examination in this style, only judging the wines once they are finished and in bottle, would ever work in Bordeaux? Instead of tasting barrel samples masquerading as wine each April, we could taste a range of samples from the vineyard ("this is the Cabernet Sauvignon from the plateau behind the château, this is the Merlot from the clay at the foot of the slope", and so on) and then from that assessment build up an idea of quality at the château, and ultimately quality of the vintage. The decisive judgement could come once the wine was in bottle, or at least when the final assemblage was done. This might help reduce Bordeaux hype, and would make applying a point score to the 'wine' impossible, until it was ready for the market. Would it work?
No, of course not! What a crazy comment! What was I thinking?! The Bordelais need points, the earlier the better. Because what do points mean? Prices!
Anyway, back to Muscadet. After the brut de cuve samples we then moved on to the Pierre de la Grange and Pierres Blanches cuvées, two stalwarts of the Luneau-Papin portfolio, and often very fine examples of the appellation and the vintage. Perhaps it is this latter element that is at play here, 2009 being a rather warmer style of vintage, but I did not find the superb zip and definition in these two wines that I would have hoped for. They are still extremely good examples of the type, but perhaps not as exciting as they can be, even at this lower level. Fortunately, there is no shortage of excitement at Luneau-Papin once you scale the quality ladder, and this tasting was no exception. There followed a number of superb wines, some of which I am quite familiar with, some less so.
In the latter category is the Terre de Pierre de la Butte de la Roche,
a new addition to the range, commencing with the 2008 vintage. I was lucky
enough to taste both the 2009 and 2008 here, and it's an honour to taste
anything from the 2008 vintage in any case, as yields were so low across the
region. This vineyard has only recently
been acquired by the Luneau-Papin family and although I sense that Pierre-Marie
feels there is still much work to be done in the vineyard, the quality that is
coming through in the glass is already evident. The fruit is picked by hand (in
the case of the 2009, in two tries, one parcel with good exposure to the
sun on September 18th, one more shaded on September 30th) before a pneumatic
pressing and a cold débourbage. Fermentation is by indigenous yeasts
brought in on the fruit in subterranean cement cuves, followed by 12
months sur lie but without racking, before bottling. The end result is
impressive, rich, deep and minerally, and is already challenging the Excelsior
and L d'Or cuvées in terms of quality and interest.
The L d'Or and Excelsior cuvées are old favourites and it was a welcome opportunity to retaste some vintages, a couple of which (particularly the more mature wines - the 1995 L d'Or and 2002 Excelsior) showed much better than they have done on previous tastings. And the 2009 L d'Or looks to have plenty of promise too. We finished up with one very unusual wine, the 2005 Pueri Solis (label shown above), a wine that was introduced - with an almost apologetic tone - as an experimental cuvée. Having seen out 42 months sur lie, including 15 months in small vats, and a malolactic fermentation as well, this is certainly not your everyday Muscadet. I've read some swooning reports on the wine, but I find it misses the cut and verve of the very best Muscadets, and I'm hoping that it remains an experimental one-off so that the team at Luneau-Papin can focus on the other cuvées, so much more typical of the appellation, which are of such high quality. (8/11/11)
Pierre Luneau-Papin, February 2011 - Tasting Notes
The wines below were tasted in Angers at the
Salon des Vins de Loire in
February 2011. All my notes on the wines of Pierre Luneau-Papin, including those below, are collated under my
Pierre Luneau-Papin profile. Click
to locate stockists.
As is usual when tasting the latest wines from Luneau-Papin, I kicked off with the brut de cuve samples, unfinished wines often not yet blended. Some samples, however, have a very sure destination, such as Number 3 (which is heading for the L d'Or cuvée) and Number 5 (which will contribute to the troisième niveau Excelsior cuvée).
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut de Cuve Number
1 2010:
This is from a schistous terroir, and it shows a very perfumed and fresh,
aromatic style. On the palate it kicks off with a soft, youthful, soapstone
character, and although it has an appealing minerality in the midpalate, and
good acidity, it does feel quite fat in the mouth. There is lots of grip in the
finish though. Overall, plump but perfumed, chalky and minerally. Full of
adolescent promise. 15-16/20
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut de Cuve Number
2 2010:
This is a sample from Les Pierres Blanches, a plot of old vines planted on a
schistous terroir, usually bottled as a single cuvée. This has a greater
expression of minerals here, with a perfumed and sherbetty weight. The palate
has a supple rather than fat feel to it, and is showing a good minerally
quality. Supple, full of exciting character, with great acidity. Lots of vigour
here; this should be very good. 16-17/20
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut de Cuve Number
3 2010:
This sample originates from a mixed gneiss and granite terroir, a plot of
vines on a small hill overlooking the Goulaine river. This is destined for the L
d'Or cuvée. An impressively stony, minerally, lemon and thyme character here,
the minerals having a particularly salty edge. Very expressive, full of
substance but bright and fresh, balanced too. It has a rather more restrained
grip and minerally composition on the palate than the nose suggested, but it is
all here. 16.5-17.5/20
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut
de Cuve Number 4 2010:
This particular brut de cuve sample comes from a serpentine terroir.
It has a rather fresh, crisp, open style on the nose. From 36-year old vines.
This has a soft but lively, minerally character, with rather a green fruit edge
to it. It seems rather more full and plump on the palate, although underneath it
has quite a firm style. A nice grip to it. Not a supple or easy-going cuvée
despite its serpentine origins. Attractive. Although Pierre-Marie didn't
comment, it's likely that this is from the Butte de la Roche. 16-17/20
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut
de Cuve Number 5 2010: This sample is destined for the Excelsior cuvée. It
is certainly aromatically very impressive, with an intense, polished-stone style
here. I find the same on the palate, and there is a supple yet sparkly
minerality here, broadening out into a very soft style, very open and relaxed,
before it then tightens up, becoming towards the finish a really quite intense
and grippy wine. There are hidden depths here. Lovely potential. 16.5-17.5/20
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Pierre de la Grange 2009:
This is sourced from seven plots of vines aged at least 35 years, planted near
Le Landreau on micaschist and gneiss. Attractive, fresh, ripe character on the
nose. It has a very clean style, perhaps showing a lower concentration than I
expected, perhaps reflecting the youth of the vines. It has a nice presence and
structure on the palate though, supple, appealing and open, leading into a
sappy, grippy finish. There is plenty of typicity here but it does feel a bit
loose and softly focused on the palate. 15/20
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Les Pierres Blanches
2009: From the Pierres Blanches vineyard near Le Landreau, a single plot of
vines aged between 55 and 60 years. The soils are mica-schist and schist. The
wine, which has seen seven months sur lie, has a lovely, stony character
on the nose, and on the palate it shows a supple style. Rather polished, with
the ripeness it seems to possess giving it a slightly softer feel, and there is
a nicely relaxed minerality. These latter elements have a subtle presence.
Overall, attractive. 15.5/20
My first taste of this new cuvée from Luneau-Papin; 2008 was the inaugural vintage.
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet
Sèvre et Maine sur lie Terre de Pierre de la Butte de la Roche 2009: From a
serpentine terroir recently taken on by Luneau-Papin. A relaxed, supple
feel to the nose, although lifted with notes of thyme and crunchy, salted lemon
slices here. Rather soft and rounded on the palate at first, with rather a fat
substance coming through the middle as well. Underneath it all though, there is
a crisp, crunchy and minerally acidity. This seems at present to be very bold
and structured, with rather a ripe, fat style overall. This has the build and
substance to age well, despite (my perhaps erroneous) preconceptions about
serpentine soils. The big and grippy finish only reinforces this conclusion. 17/20
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet
Sèvre et Maine sur lie Terre de Pierre de la Butte de la Roche 2008: This is
the first vintage for this new cuvée. It has a much more striking and, to me, a
much more appealing, mineral-infused nose than even the 2009
vintage. This early promise gives way to a more solid feel on the palate,
polished white stone fruit rubbed with thyme, this sensation coming through as a stony substance to it
as well. It all concentrates down into a very focused minerality in the finish,
which was also seen - albeit less intensely - in the 2009 vintage. Superb wines
from what is evidently a great terroir. 17.5/20
The Cuvée L d'Or has long been recognised as Luneau-Papin's flagship wine.
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or
2009: From vines aged at least 45 years planted on granite and gneiss near
Vallet. It has seen between 9 and 11 months sur lie before blending and
bottling. A lovely intensity from the granite here, almost a smoky minerality on
the nose which has a reserved but undeniable appeal. Rather a supple start on
the palate, quite broad and polished, slowly evolving a mineral seam as I hold
it in the mouth, elegant and yet with a firm structure to it. This has a lot of
appeal. An impressive tension, with lots of minerality, especially in the
finish. Certainly good potential here. 18/20
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 2007:
This has a youthful and stony nose. There follows a very convincing style on the
palate though, full and rather precise. Imbued as it is with sweet lemon-sherbet
fruit, this is still very clearly a young wine at the moment. It has an enticing
acid core, but despite the robust structure it maintains a balanced feel rather
than being overly firm. Another impressive vintage, and one in need of the
cellar. 17.5/20
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 2005:
A polished and rather soapy nose here, with more evocative fruit than in the
younger wines right now, peach in particular. It holds a lovely texture, from
the warmth of the vintage perhaps, but still has a very stylish presence. The
palate gives notes of spices and a bready richness too. This is one of the most
impressive and seductive wines so far; I find it enticing, although purists
might reject its rather alluring fruit. It finishes up with an incredible
richness and mineral-coating of the palate. Delicious, and should do well in the
cellar. 18/20
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 2003:
Despite the obvious reputation that the 2003 vintage possesses, this wine wants
to buck the trend with a minerally, lemony perfume on the nose. It is
expressive, polished and very fine in terms of style. On the palate it does seem
rather fatter, quite broad, polished, lightly honeyed even, and even though the
acidity seems subdued there is some nice definition from the minerality. This
begins as a thin seam at first, then building in the middle of the wine, giving
it a surprisingly fine style. Overall a really appealing character here, and not
typical of the hot vintage, even with its big finish. 17.5/20
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1995:
This vintage spent ten months sur lie, and saw no oak and no
malolactic. It has now had fourteen years in bottle. Aromatically it has an
intense, lemon-zesty nose, with mineral suggestions but also touches of peach
coming in, rather akin to the 2005. The palate has a rather supple and polished
feel, is broad and rather spicy, with complex tones of vanilla and star anise
also showing through. There is also a very fine acid core coming up, bright and
lively, through the middle of the wine. It has a big, long, spicy-minerally
finish. Excellent showing here, perhaps not quite so bright as I would like, but
it comes across much better than my last tasting back in 2007. 17/20
This cuvée is sourced from the Clos des Noëlles, from 70 to 80-year-old vines.
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Clos des Noëlles Excelsior 2007: From vines aged at least 75 years near
Chapelle-Heulin, planted on schist and micaschist. This has seen out 36 months
on its lees. A finely poised nose, showing stone fruit with a bright and open
minerality. Crunchy and defined, this is the sort of nose I look for in the very
best Muscadet. Just lovely. There is a sappy substance on the palate, with white
fruit, but with a gentle, appropriate supporting structure. A delicious
composition, with building acid and minerals throughout, but still very fine. In
the finish it is all minerals, acid and grip. Very long with great potential
here. 17.5/20
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Clos des Noëlles Excelsior 2006: Compared to the 2007 just tasted this wine
has a richer, softer, soapstone minerality on the nose, and is also a touch more
perfumed. This rather more obvious aromatic profile is matched by a rather
fatter style on the palate, broad and stylish, but nicely cut through by plenty
of bright, needling minerality here. It is certainly rich but is also
characterful, polished, albeit with a lightly oily feel to it. Lots of substance
here, an impressive style, given time this will be great. 17.5/20
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Clos des Noëlles Excelsior 2005: This wine seems to have shaken off a little
of its youthful exuberance, and shows a wonderfully balanced style of minerally
fruit today. It seems very composed and polished, even though there is a
slightly honeyed texture, which thankfully seems very well integrated with the
wine. There is fine acidity and a fresh, bold structure to it, supporting the
wine's wonderful substance. A fabulous wine. 18/20
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Clos des Noëlles Excelsior 2002: This is evolving very nicely, and today
shows a rather gentle, honeyed, peach and stone fruit nose. Then on the palate
it reveals a great depth, with a fine substance, broad, balanced and stylish,
with the combination of a lovely seam of acid and minerality. There is a touch
of smoke here too. This has a fine composition, seeming so harmonious and
composed on this tasting, leading into a lovely, spicy, mineral grip in the
finish. This seems much more convincing than my last taste, and the
transformation here - comparing this to the younger vintages - is very exciting. 18.5/20
An experimental Muscadet, which has seen malolactic fermentation and extended aging.
Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet
Sèvre et Maine Pueri Solis 2005: An experiment, this has seen 42 months
sur lie, including 15 months in small vats, and malolactic fermentation. A blend
from vines aged at least 45 years, planted on schist and micaschist terroirs
around Le Landreau. A sweet, honeyed and very peachy nose. Despite that
impression of sweet ripeness this has just 4 g/l. On the palate it has a
polished feel, certainly showing a smoother acid backbone than the other wines,
but there are also flavour differences, this having more savoury elements, with
more dense and slightly sweeter fruit. It has a rather full style although it
still has that tingling grip at the end. More subdued minerality and acid but it
is still here. This is good, but I don't find here the vigour I want. Just 5000
bottles produced. 16.5/20
