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Domaine de l'Ecu

The process of discovery in the Loire will without doubt vary from one person to the next, but my personal wine history begins with the red wines of Saumur, Chinon and Bourgueil, followed by Sancerre and the other appellations of the central vineyards. Later came Vouvray, and perhaps a rediscovery of Saumur, as I realised not only just how delicious these wines can be in warmer weather, but also that there are a few really top-drawer domaines turning out world class wines, such as Clos Rougeard. Muscadet also came later, and for many years I held the mistaken view that this appellation provided only simple, painfully rustic wines which were of no structure or substance; an appellation where you should always drink the youngest available, usually without any undue fuss. This is, however, a view of which I have now long since disavowed myself. Muscadet is a source of some brilliant wines; the best examples can be structured and racy, they partner many foods superbly, and they can perform brilliantly in the cellar. Guy Bossard, of Domaine de l'Ecu, is one source of such excellent wines.

Guy Bossard (right) is the fifth generation of his family to turn his hand to viticulture and wine, and he is based in Le Landreau, in the Sèvre et Maine region of the Muscadet appellation. He has approximately 20 hectares of vines, with an average age of 45 years, which he farms using biodynamic techniques, practices he took up fully in 1986 after more than a decade of rigorous organic viticulture. Such dedication to the health of the vineyard deserves admiration; this far north the frequently inclement weather means any reduction in fungal treatments is a daunting undertaking. It is the cool winds coming off the Atlantic, just to the west, that dry out the vines and thus hopefully protect from fungal diseases such as mildew and oidium. And to enrich the vineyards, Bossard relies on a biodynamic fertiliser composed of organic material from the forest floor, seaweed and basalt, and in some plots the soil between the rows is turned over by horse and plough to help control weeds.

It should perhaps come as no surprise that one so committed to his vines is also committed to his terroir. There are three principle cuvées bottled, each one indicating its soily origins. They are harvested by hand, at yields anywhere between 40 and 55 hl/ha, depending on the individual vineyard and wine. Naturally they are all 100% Melon de Bourgogne, this being the grape of Muscadet, although Bossard does tend some other varieties which go into his vin de pays or sparkling wines. Expression de Gneiss is sourced from a 4-hectare vineyard characterised by gneiss, a rock which resembles schist a little in appearance, and which is formed by the action of metamorphic processes on either sedimentary or igneous material. Orthogneiss is gneiss specifically formed from igneous rock alone, and this terroir is articulated in Bossard's Expression de Orthogneiss, which comes from a 2-hectare vineyard. Finally there is Expression de Granite, from a 3-hectare vineyard with pebbly soil over a granite subsoil. If stored on their lees before bottling, naturally the wines are designated sur lie. Occasionally they may also wear a Hermine d'Or designation, which denotes a wine of specific merit according to its typicity to the region, richly mineral flavour and capacity for ageing, as assessed on tasting by Bossard and his peers, including Joseph Hallereau, Alain Forget, Léon Dollet, Jo Landron of Domaine de la Louvetrie and Léon Boullaut of Domaine des Dorices.

As well as these exalted cuvées, there is also a generic Muscadet which is still very good, a number of vin de pays bottlings, and of course sparkling wines, including the zippy and zingy non-vintage Cuvée Ludwig Hahn NV, a fascinating blend based largely on Folle Blanche, otherwise known as Gros-Plant. This accounts for 45% of the total, the remainder being 25% Chardonnay, 20% Melon de Bourgogne and, bringing up the rear, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Like all the wines available here, it has a structure and minerality that suggests it too would cellar nicely, although it is fine for drinking now. All in all, these are wines to watch out for, and they would make an excellent starting point for anyone wishing to get to grips with this large wine region.

Sadly in 2008 Guy Bossard disclosed an interest in selling his domaine, so whether Domaine de l'Ecu will continue to be such an ideal first port of call for the Muscadet novice remains to be seen. With no apparent heir, no real sign of Muscadet ever regaining the popularity that - in the case of the top wines, such as Bossard's - it so richly deserves, and with two very small harvests in 2007 and 2008 (thanks to frost the latter saw yields in single figures on many Muscadet estates) it is perhaps not surprising that he has decided now is the time to go. When I learn more on the fate of his domaine I will be sure to write it here. (5/8/04, updated 18/12/07, 11/2/09)

Contact details:
Address: 44430 Le Landereau
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 40 06 40 91
Fax: +33 (0) 2 40 06 46 79

Domaine de l'Ecu - Tasting Notes

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Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Expression de Gneiss 2008: An early sample. A papery-minerally nose here, not very expressive otherwise. Fine palate though, nicely textured, lots of grip and a spicy nature, with a good balance of substance and acidity. Rather short finish, but overall a lovely style. Tasted at the 2009 Renaissance tasting. 17-17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Expression de Orthogneiss 2008: An early sample. More powdery minerality here, with herby-chalky nuances. Some mineral coming through on the palate too, with a firm, shalky-slatey character. It softens up a little in the middle, where it shows a broader character, although it maintains its fresh and stylish manner. It just has the edge on the Gneiss for me. Tasted at the 2009 Renaissance tasting. 17-18+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Expression de Granite 2008: An early sample. This seems more muted on the nose, softer with a more gentle minerality. The style on the palate is clean, nicely textured, with a good vein of mineralty, buried quite deep but it is certainly there. Some fresh grip here too. A very good wine. Tasted at the 2009 Renaissance tasting. 17-17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Expression de Gneiss 2006: A fresh and limpid hue, with a fresh nose of minerals, sea salt and stone. The palate is very dry, almost austere, certainly very taut and withdrawn, with a rapier-like quality to the finish. Underneath there is a little fleshy substance, and a nice, sour character which I like. At the moment it seems a little challenging, but it certainly shows some potential. Could be very good. From my 2008 Loire wine tasting notes. 17+/20 (July 2008)

Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Expression de Gneiss 2005: This particular cuvée has an appealing, stark, green, nettly and weedy character on the nose, but with a touch of cream giving a little suggestion of substance. The palate has a full, rounded and creamy nature, but is fresh and nettly. Delightful sea salty nuances, with a pleasing spritz and spicy pepper notes at the finish. Overall, an appealing wine, with a refreshing, slightly sour, lemony character. Really very good. 17+/20 (December 2007)

Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Expression de Granite 2005: A shimmering pale hue with a tinge of green. Overall this has a bright, lemony, pebbly, salty and herby character on the nose. Clearly this is showing depth and complexity. This is complimented on the palate by a fine sea salt, lemon and lime freshness, with a laser-like precision. Quite rich in terms of its broad character and depth of flavour, this has delightful vigour and piles of minerally, pithy character. This is excellent and certainly one for the acid-seeking Muscadet classicists. 18+/20 (December 2007)

Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2004: Another look at this wine, which I last tasted in September. A twin-top cork. A very pale hue as would be expected. Delightfully fresh nose, full of green and leafy grapefruit, with just a little hint of creamy softness at the edges. A lovely broad palate, fresh and quite precise, with beautifully defined acidity, but with nicely rounded edges too. Vibrant and yet gently poised. Really very good, and certainly great value. 17/20 (December 2007)

Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2004: A pale coloured wine, with a very light, straw hue. The nose is just so enticing, with freshness in abundance, characterised by notes of grapefruit and lemon, wild flowers and a minerality with a little hint of spice. On the palate it has a fine, broad texture, immediately framed and supported by a fresh but not overdone acidity. This is really very beautifully balanced, and it is remarkable to think this is the entry-level wine in the Bossard portfolio. Gently polished in style and yet tingly-zippy, lively and flavoursome, with much in the way of citrus fruit and a rocky, savoury, sappy minerality carried by a pithy texture. Delicious, and although I rate it on a par with the La Lune tasted below, for its precision and definition I think this wine just has the edge for me. Delicious, and excellent value. From an Artisan Wines tasting. 17/20 (September 2007)

Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Expression de Orthogneiss 2004: This wine has a very mineral nose, with a good presence of citrus fruits, with an intense and somewhat chalky character, along with notes of nettles and rosemary. A lovely freshness on the palate, firm and rather pithy, full, with a note of grip to the structure. Crisp, citrussy, lemony, but with a broad, sappy, sour-savoury quality. This is delicious. 17/20 (December 2007)

Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Expression de Granite 2004: A pure and clear colour. The fruit profile on the nose has a similar purity, pithy and lemony, with sea salt and thyme herbs. On the palate it is dry, minerally and very, very slightly fleshy. It is certainly broad and well flavoured, quite peppery and spicy, with a textured, sappy, savoury and beautifully fresh character. A dry salted finish and a good length too. Really very good indeed. 17+/20 (December 2007)

Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Expression de Gneiss 2002: This wine is a very pale colour, showing just a hint of greenish-lemon. Some minerals on the nose. Just bordering on medium-bodied on the palate. Plenty of tingly acidity, with rather over-subtle mineral and wet stone flavour, with a hint of wild meadow flower. It needs seafood. 14/20 (June 2004)

Domaine de l'Ecu Cuvée Ludwig Hahn NV: The colour here is an attractive straw-gold, with a plentiful bead resulting in a bone-white froth of bubbles on the wine's surface. The nose has a very dry, bony, steely character, with very subtle nuances of citrus and straw. The palate is firm, full of fresh and crisp acidity, with a firm and gripping finish; it is certainly best after the bottle has been open an hour or so. The fruit character is reserved, fresh, and very much framed by the acidity; it is all nettles and straw, backed up by a minerally seam. A very good wine, perfect for warm weather and seafood. Full, very sharply mouth-watering, and on the whole a refreshing pleasure, rather like a face-full of sea spray. It's remarkable to think this is a wine born of Folle Blanche, otherwise known as Gros-Plant, Chardonnay, Melon de Bourgogne and, believe it or not, Cabernet Sauvignon. From an Artisan Wines tasting. 17/20 (May 2009)

Domaine de l'Ecu Cuvée Ludwig Hahn NV: Purchased Autumn 2006. An attractive pale straw-gold colour, with a plentiful, rather fat bead. On the nose there are yeasty notes, but these are more than matched by some delightful notes of minerals, citrus, straw, smoke and almonds. The palate is precise, very well defined, although it has a full presence through the midpalate it is sharp, incisive and clearly defined. Overall very fresh and straw-grassy-nettly clean. This is really characterful and surprisingly stylish, and whilst clearly very different to other more familiar sparkling wines, namely Champagne, it has its own intrinsic quality more closely related to its origins, rather than being a pale imitation of some other wine. And for that I admire it greatly. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17/20 (January 2007)