Home > Producer Profiles > Loire Profiles > Domaine de l'Ecu
Domaine de l'Ecu
The process of discovery in the Loire will without doubt vary from one person to the next, but my personal wine history begins with the red wines of Saumur, Chinon and Bourgueil, followed by Sancerre and the other appellations of the central vineyards. Later came Vouvray, and perhaps a rediscovery of Saumur, as I realised not only just how delicious these wines can be in warmer weather, but that also there are a few really top-drawer domaines turning out world class wines, such as Clos Rougéard. Muscadet also came later, and for many years I held the mistaken view that this appellation provided only simple, painfully rustic wines which were of no structure or substance; an appellation where you should always drink the youngest available, usually without any undue fuss. This is, however, a view of which I have now long since disavowed myself. Muscadet is a source of some brilliant wines; the best examples can be structured and racy, they partner many foods superbly, and they can perform brilliantly in the cellar. Guy Bossard, of Domaine de l'Ecu, is one source of such excellent wines.
Guy Bossard is the fifth generation
of his family to turn his hand to
viticulture and wine, and is based in Le Landreau, in the Sèvre et Maine region
of the Muscadet appellation. He has approximately 20 hectares of vines, with an
average age 45 years, which he farms using biodynamic techniques, practices he
took up fully in 1986 after more than a decade of rigorous organic viticulture.
Such dedication to the health of the vineyard deserves admiration; this far
north the frequently inclement weather means any reduction in fungal treatments is a daunting undertaking. it is the cool winds coming off the Atlantic, just
to the west, that dry out the vines and thus hopefully protect from fungal
diseases such as mildew and oidium. And to enrich the vineyards, Bossard
relies on a biodynamic fertiliser composed of organic material from the forest
floor, seaweed and basalt, and in some plots the soil between the rows is turned
over by horse and plough to help control weeds.
It should perhaps come as no surprise that one so committed to his vines is
also committed to his terroir. There are three principle cuvées bottled, each
one indicating its soily origins. They are harvested by hand, at yields anywhere
between 40 and 55 hl/ha, depending on the individual vineyard and wine.
Naturally they are all 100% Melon de Bourgogne, this being the grape of
Muscadet,
although Bossard does tend some other varieties which will go into his vin de
pays or sparkling wines. Expression de Gneiss is sourced from a 4
hectare vineyard characterised by gneiss, a rock which resembles schist a little
in appearance, and which is formed by the action of metamorphic processes on
either sedimentary or igneous material. Orthogneiss is gneiss specifically
formed from igneous rock alone, and this terroir is articulated in Bossard's
Expression de Orthogneiss, which comes from a 2 hectare vineyard. Finally
there is Expression de Granite, from a 3 hectare vineyard with pebbly
soil over a granite subsoil. If stored on their lees before bottling, naturally
the wines are designated sur lie. Occasionally they may also wear a
Hermine d'Or designation, which denotes a wine of specific merit according to
its typicity to the region, richly mineral flavour and capacity for ageing, as assessed
on tasting by Bossard and his peers, including Joseph Hallereau, Alain Forget,
Léon Dollet, Joseph Landron of Domaine de la Louvetrie and Léon Boullaut of
Domaine des Dorices.
As well as these exalted cuvées, there is also a generic Muscadet which is still very good, a number of vin de pays bottlings, and of course sparkling wines, including the zippy and zingy non-vintage Cuvée Ludwig Hahn NV, a fascinating blend based largely on Folle Blanche, otherwise known as Gros-Plant. This accounts for 45% of the total, the remainder being 25% Chardonnay, 20% Melon de Bourgogne and, bringing up the rear, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Like all the wines available here, it has a structure and minerality that suggests it too would cellar nicely, although it is fine for drinking now. All in all, this is a domaine to watch out for, and should be a starting point for anyone wishing to get to grips with this large wine region; I strongly suggest that you don't make the same mistake as I did, leaving it until the end of your journey of discovery in the Loire. (5/8/04, updated 18/12/07)
Contact details:
Address: 44430 Le Landereau
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 40 06 40 91
Fax: +33 (0) 2 40 06 46 79
Domaine de l'Ecu - Tasting Notes
Click
to locate stockists:
Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Expression de Gneiss 2005:
This particular cuvée has an appealing, stark, green, nettly and weedy
character on the nose, but with a touch of cream giving a little suggestion of
substance. The palate has a full, rounded and creamy nature, but is fresh and nettly.
Delightful sea salty nuances, with a pleasing spritz and spicy
pepper notes at the finish. Overall, an appealing wine, with a refreshing, slightly sour, lemony character.
Really very good. 17+/20 (December 2007)
Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Expression de Granite 2005: A
shimmering pale hue with a tinge of green. Overall this has a bright, lemony,
pebbly, salty and herby character on the nose. Clearly this is showing depth and
complexity. This is complimented on the palate by a fine sea salt, lemon and
lime freshness, with a laser-like precision. Quite rich in terms of its broad
character and depth of flavour, this has delightful vigour and piles of
minerally, pithy character. This is excellent and certainly one for the
acid-seeking Muscadet classicists. 18+/20 (December 2007)
Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2004: Another look at
this wine, which I last tasted in September. A twin-top cork. A very pale hue as would be expected.
Delightfully fresh nose, full of green and leafy grapefruit, with just a little
hint of creamy softness at the edges. A lovely broad palate, fresh and quite
precise, with beautifully defined acidity, but with nicely rounded edges too.
Vibrant and yet gently poised. Really very good, and certainly great value.
17/20 (December 2007)
Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2004: A pale coloured wine, with a very
light, straw hue. The nose is just so enticing, with freshness in abundance,
characterised by notes of grapefruit and lemon, wild flowers and a minerality
with a little hint of spice. On the palate it has a fine, broad texture,
immediately framed and supported by a fresh but not overdone acidity. This is
really very beautifully balanced, and it is remarkable to think this is the
entry-level wine in the Bossard portfolio. Gently polished in style and yet
tingly-zippy, lively and flavoursome, with much in the way of citrus fruit and a
rocky, savoury, sappy minerality carried by a pithy texture. Delicious, and
although I rate it on a par with the La Lune tasted below, for its precision and
definition I think this wine just has the edge for me. Delicious, and excellent
value. From an Artisan Wines
tasting. 17/20 (September 2007)
Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Expression de Orthogneiss 2004:
This wine has a very mineral nose, with a good presence of citrus fruits, with
an intense and somewhat chalky character, along with notes of nettles and
rosemary. A lovely freshness on the palate, firm and rather pithy, full, with a
note of grip to the structure. Crisp, citrussy, lemony, but with a broad, sappy,
sour-savoury quality. This is delicious. 17/20 (December 2007)
Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Expression de Granite 2004:
A pure and clear colour. The fruit profile on the nose has a similar purity,
pithy and lemony, with sea salt and thyme herbs. On the palate it is dry,
minerally and very, very slightly fleshy. It is certainly broad and well
flavoured, quite peppery and spicy, with a textured, sappy, savoury and
beautifully fresh character. A dry salted finish and a good length too. Really
very good indeed. 17+/20 (December 2007)
Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Expression de Gneiss
2002: This wine is a very pale colour, showing just a hint of greenish-lemon. Some minerals on the
nose. Just bordering on medium-bodied on the palate. Plenty of tingly acidity,
with rather over-subtle mineral and wet stone flavour, with a hint of wild meadow flower. It needs
seafood. 14/20 (June 2004)
Domaine de l'Ecu Cuvée Ludwig Hahn NV: Purchased Autumn 2006. An
attractive pale straw-gold colour, with a plentiful, rather fat bead. On the nose there
are yeasty notes, but these are more than matched by some delightful notes of
minerals, citrus, straw, smoke and almonds. The palate is precise, very well
defined, although it has a full presence through the midpalate it is sharp,
incisive and clearly defined. Overall very fresh and straw-grassy-nettly clean.
This is really characterful and surprisingly stylish, and whilst clearly very
different to other more familiar sparkling wines, namely Champagne, it has its
own intrinsic quality more closely related to its origins, rather than being a
pale imitation of some other wine. And for that I admire it greatly. For label
images and more see my Wine of the Week
write-up. 17/20 (January 2007)
Home - Site index - Site updated May 14, 2008 - © The Winedoctor 2000 - 2008 - Wine Scores - RSS
