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Jo Landron & Domaine de la Louvetrie

Joseph Landron is one of those characters who makes it even more difficult for non-fluent French speakers to grasp their meaning by hiding his lips behind a most magnificent moustache. But this is not, I am sure, his first aim in life; instead, I suspect many of his waking hours are consumed by an obvious passion for the vine. A graduate of the École d'Agriculture in Briacé, which counts a good number of the leading winemakers of Nantais amongst its alumni, his has been ensconced at Domaine de la Louvetrie in La Haye-Fouassière for more than twenty years. His wines, in truth like their master, speak very clearly; these are fine, minerally efforts, sometimes rich, always interesting and, in the case of the top cuvées, wines worthy of cellaring.

Domaine de la Louvetrie was established by Pierre Landron in 1945, and it was not until the 1980s that his son, who goes by the name of Jo rather than the full and formal Joseph, joined him, having first finished his studies. In 1990 Pierre handed everything over to Jo; he now extols about 36 hectares at Domaine de la Louvetrie, although he also tends two other domaines, Chateau de la Carizière and Les Grand Houx, bringing the total up to about 48 hectares. It was under Jo's direction that the vineyards were converted to 100% organic viticulture in 1999, gaining full certification from ECOCERT in 2002. Until very recently Landron continued organically, following guidance laid down by the Fédération Nationale Interprofessionnelle des Vins de l'Agriculture Biologique, but in 2008 he took the leap to full biodynamic viticulture, gaining BIODYVIN certification. The use of chemical fungicides and other such methods were totally abolished, fertilisation is with biodynamic compost, and the vineyards are ploughed to reduce competition from weeds. The vines see leaf-thinning to aid drying and discourage rot, and Atlantic breezes also help with this task. The vines, which range in age from 15 years up to about 70 years, are planted at a density of 7000 vines/ha and pruned to eight buds to bring yields below 50 hl/ha, although in the vineyards with a more favourable exposure a green harvest may also be employed, bring yields here below 40 hl/ha. Of course such numbers can at times be academic; in frost-bitten vintages such as 2008, yields have been much lower.

The fruit is harvested by hand, Jo told me when I met him at the 2009 Renaissance tasting, before transport to the cuverie where it undergoes a pneumatic pressing. The must is then allowed to settle and ferment naturally (by which I mean without cultured yeasts) in glass-lined temperature-controlled cement vats, before resting on its lees for between six and twelve months, after which it is bottled. There is a strong ethos against chaptalisation which no doubt does much for the fresh and sharply defined character that can be found in the wines. As I was tasting these wines Jo expanded on the terroir that lies behind his different cuvées. His most commonly encountered label is perhaps the straight Louvetrie domaine cuvée, which originates from soils rich in amphibole but also sand, clay and gneiss; it is the only still wine made from a blend of many different sites, as otherwise the Landron wines are bottled according to vineyard of origin, so that they remain true to their terroir as much as possible. The first such site-specific wine is Amphibolite Nature, which might be considered to be Landron's entry-level cuvée, it being a lively wine intended for earlier drinking. The wine is named for the aforementioned amphibole, a local stone of metamorphic origin with a beautiful green hue.

Landron's vineyards display many of the terroirs that can be found across the Muscadet appellations, including gneiss and orthogneiss, and even sandstone. In the case of his Hermine d'Or cuvée, the soils are comprised of sand, sandstone, clay and gneiss. Thereafter comes Le Fief du Breil, a wine from clay, flint and orthogneiss soils. There is one final cuvée, which I haven't tasted, named Haute Tradition; this originates from soils of orthogneiss and quartz. A similar mix of rocks and soils, including clay and flint, with the addition of schist and micaschist, characterises the soils of Chateau de la Carizière.

Overall I find the wines of Landron to be lively and very worthwhile. I have been previously impressed with the 2005 Fief du Breil, but a number of cuvées tasted here showed comparable quality. I have already added a few more bottles to the cellar to taste in future years. There's no rush, especially with the Hermine d'Or and Fief du Breil; they clearly age magnificently. I was also delighted to be able to taste Landron's non-vintage sparkler, Atmosphères, with which he seems to have had great success in the Far East. I thought it showed potential, although in a very adolescent and reticent manner; it would be instructive to see how this tastes after it has been in bottle a little while longer. (17/2/09)

Contact details:
Address: Route de Bellevue, 44690 La Haye-Fouassiere
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 40 54 83 27
Fax: +33 (0) 2 40 54 89 82
Internet: www.domaines-landron

Jo Landron & Domaine de la Louvetrie - Tasting Notes

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Domaine de la Louvetrie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Amphibolite Nature 2008: A lovely, bright, fresh and minerally nose, with a slightly herby element. Quite precise in style, well defined, with firm acids and a balanced texture and weight. Very zippy, with lots of fabulous appeal, and easy to drink. That Amphibolite Nature is intended for early drinking certainly shines through here; this is already delicious. 17-17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine de la Louvetrie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2008: This is an assemblage of parcels, on multiple terroirs, which surround the vines for the more site-specific cuvées. A fairly rich, almost honey-sweet nose here, with just a touch of minerality. It has a surprisingly rich character. The palate shows a nice texture, although it is rather soft, with notes of herbs and mint. The finish is a touch muted, a little bitter, and with very gentle acids. Not as fresh as I was hoping for. Again, though, very youthful. 14-15+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine de la Louvetrie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Hermine d'Or 2008: This is more minerally and chalky, but is perhaps still rather soft in style. Certainly a better definition though on the palate; it starts off rather warm and rounded, but in the midpalate there is more acidity and minerality. There is a little plumpness to it, but freshness too, despite a very full structure. And a good, grippy finish too. This is a real step up from the domaine cuvée. 16-17+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine de la Louvetrie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Amphibolite Nature 2007: A fabulously fresh nose, surprisingly rich in fruit, with plenty of freshly cut pears and a little white pepper. Firm, well framed by acidity, fresh and zippy, but with good weight and texture too. But at the finish it shows a powerful, sherbetty acid backbone, with almost sweet and tropical fruit here, although it always has that defined, minerally character. Delicious wine. 17-17.5+/20 (May 2009)

Domaine de la Louvetrie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le Fief du Breil 2007: This comes from 35 year old vines planted on a slope with favourable sun exposure. The nose is lovely, although in a very ripe and full style. Sweet, ripe fruit, with a bright and candied quality. The palate is similarly lively, showing a nice acid backbone which gives plenty of zip, moderate concentration of flavour too. It has a slightly diffuse character right now, with a chalky core, but there is plenty of substance underneath this wine. This could be really good with more time. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine de la Louvetrie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le Fief du Breil 2006: This has a more evolved, papery, chalky and herby nose than the 2007, with a good minerally character. The palate has a really attractive texture, silky-smooth, very nicely integrated, with gentle grip and acidity beneath. Nice herby-mineral flavours bring up the rear. Just lovely, finely balanced wine. Very good indeed. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Domaine de la Louvetrie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le Fief du Breil 2005: On inspection it has a pale and shimmering hue, and the nose has plenty of character, with aromas of crushed rocks with a little sherbetty edge, alongside notes of thyme and sea salt. It is rather fat on the palate, with a supple weight which I rather like, although it is perhaps not entirely typical and some hard-core Muscadetophiles might not take to it because of this. It has a lovely fresh character though, good definition and vigour, plenty of acidity and plenty of substance. That crushed rock-minerally note comes through on the palate here too. It is a delightful wine which worked well for me both as an aperitif and with a subsequent fish course. And it also reminded me that notes of herbs, in this case thyme, can occasionally be found in these wines. Very good indeed. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17.5+/20 (October 2008)

Domaine de la Louvetrie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le Fief du Breil 1996: Poured from magnum. This has a great nose, certainly full of honeyed elements, but dry, and minerally too. In the mouth this impresses even more; it is rounded, broad, deeply characterful, showing a melding of honey and minerals, with a fresh and yet powerful stance. It has a rich, almost meaty character, yet it remains fresh thanks to fabulous acidity cutting through it all. This is great wine which is giving lots of pleasure right now. 18/20 (February 2009)

Jo Landron Atmospheres (Vin Mousseux de Qualité) NV: A relatively new wine from Jo Landron, a non-vintage sparkler. Wines of this level are forbidden from declaring vintage of origin, but this is Lot 06. I noted this down, but then forgot to ask if this was a clue as to vintage! It has a rather perfumed and chalky nose, with a papery edge, and a hint of something sweet and herby. At the moment it seems rather disjointed, youthful and awkward, and there is a weird, mealy, grainy aroma. Very dry, puckering style with a stony-dry finish. Gangly and uncoordinated, I suspect this needs time to settle down. Others liked it a lot more than me as it was, though. 14-15+?/20 (February 2009)