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Bernard Baudry Update, January 2011
Bernard Baudry
This update relates to wines tasted in January 2011.
For more on this estate, including all my relevant tasting notes, see my Bernard Baudry profile.
Although my principal focus at this year's Salon was Savennières, followed by Montlouis, there are some domaines that - regardless of how distant they might be from these appellations - simply can not be ignored. The idea of going to the Salon and not tasting the latest releases from the likes of Domaine Huet or Château de Villeneuve, for example, seems like heresy. To this list must-visit domaines I would also add top Chinon estate Bernard Baudry.
As with last year it was Matthieu that poured the wines, Bernard ever-present but somehow always melting into the background whenever I appear. It seemed appropriate that Matthieu should lead the way; this is now his domaine, the son having gradually taken over from the father during the last couple of years. We started with the 2009 vintage, a mix of bottled wines and those still in barrel, before moving onto the embryonic 2010s.
Starting
with the 2009s, I tasted many wines from this vintage last year (from other
domaines as well as from Baudry) and I find the vintage very enticing. Despite
last year's comprehensive tasting Matthieu still managed to begin with one wine that I
have not tasted before though, the 2009 Croix Boisée Blanc. Richly
fashioned, a style no doubt influenced by the 80% malolactic, this is an
impressive cuvée, a benchmark for white Chinon (admittedly a rather niche
interest) in my opinion. We then moved onto a selection of reds, beginning with
Les Granges and the domaine cuvée, and I found little to choose between
the two (although if forced I would opt for the slightly deeper structure of the
latter). A clear step up was Les Grézeaux, before moving up again to
Clos Guillot and La Croix Boisée. This trio of impressive wines have
lost nothing of their appeal since I last tasted them twelve months ago; 2009
has clearly been a vintage which has favoured these structured, substantial
cuvées, especially the latter two both of which originate from limestone
terroirs. Nevertheless, despite the evident backbone and good cellaring
potential here, Matthieu soundbites the vintage as "supple" and "commercial", and
while these comments are not untrue they do not convey the substance and
potential within these wines. I'm looking forward to adding some of these to my own cellar.
Moving onto 2010, I kicked off with a superb rosé which should give stacks of pleasure this summer (if we even see a summer in the UK of course), before then tasting three reds from this vintage's portfolio. These wines certainly convey the potential of 2010; Matthieu sees more here than in 2009, summing up the vintage as more "structured" and "substantial". There is certainly structure here, and a comparison of the two vintages allows parallels to be drawn with the 2010 and 2009 vintages in Bordeaux, which follow a similar pattern. Whereas the Baudry 2009s show more texture, the 2010s show a firmer tannic backbone; the fruit profile may not be so flattering, but it has a very restrained and classic feel to it, and Chinon purists will flock to this vintage I think. I particularly enjoyed the Clos Guillot, but there is promise within Les Granges and Les Grézeaux too. La Croix Boisée was not there on the day; I hope to taste it next year. (26/4/11)
Bernard Baudry, January 2011 - Tasting Notes
The wines below were tasted in Angers at the Salon des
Vins de Loire in January 2011. I tasted the 2009s first, followed by the
2010s. All my notes on the wines of Bernard Baudry, including those below, are collated under my
Bernard Baudry profile. Click
to locate stockists.
Bernard Baudry Chinon Rosé 2010:
A vin de pressurage. A pale hue here, always a good sign in a rosé I
think. Bright tangerine and peach aromas, with fine freshness on the nose, with a fair amount of structure immediately evident
on the palate. Light on perfume, but with a lovely freshness to its presence in
the mouth, leading into a substantial finish where the fresh character is
maintained. Lifted and bright, but it majors on a defined light-footed structure
more than impressive perfume, well judged substance rather than prettiness. But
it is Cabernet Franc of course, not Grolleau! Very successful. 16.5/20
Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Granges 2010:
The entry-level cuvée, from sand and gravel. A good colour here, fresh and with a youthful blue tinge.
Lots of fresh and primary fruit on the nose, with deep and smoky nuances. On the palate it is very
fresh and stony although with a weight of fruit behind it. Really attractive and
bright. Overall this is a very pretty style, but there is a firm tannic
substance behind it too. This is really good, and it shows more substance and
structure than the 2009 equivalent. 15.5-16/20
Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux 2010:
A gravel cuvée, one step up from the domaine cuvée (not tasted today). This has
been in barrel for only three weeks. A really good, smoky nose here, almost
sooty such is the concentration of the fruit, but it is a tight, grippy
concentration rather than anything soft or seductive. The palate has a bright,
fresh, stony and exuberant style, again the fruit here is good but what
impresses me more is the structure of the wine, which is showing lots of tannic
grip and substance, backed up by acidity and minerality. Great balance. Very
attractive. 16-17/20
Bernard Baudry Chinon Clos Guillot 2010:
A clay and limestone terroir. This has been in barrel for one month. A
fabulous Chinon nose, all limestone and black fruits, fresh and defined. And on
the palate, there is a lovely supple presence to the fruit which covers a
crunchy layer of firm, tannins and also a very fresh and forceful layer of crisp
acidity. There is a lot going on here, but it all comes together in a supple,
polished midpalate presence before the tannins come out at the finish. This is a
well-structured composition. It should be lovely. 17-18/20
Bernard Baudry Chinon Blanc La Croix Boisée 2009:
Not a frequently seen cuvée, from a 1-hectare plot of vines. There has been 80%
malolactic fermentation in this vintage. This is now in bottle. A clean, stony, fresh, stone-fruit
nose here which certainly holds some appeal. A very stylish and firmly reserved
style on the palate, certainly quite structured. Broad, filling, with quite some
grip. A very dry presence, with good acidity. Restrained fruit, stony as per the
aromatics, but with a good substance. Linear, extremely well structured and
attractive, with lovely freshness. This will keep well. 18/20
Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Granges 2009:
The entry-level cuvée, from young vines on sand and gravel close to the Vienne.
An enticing layer of smoky-stony classically Chinon fruit on the nose. It has a
sandy-crunchy edge to it, with plenty of freshness, and this stylish embodiment
of Chinon will appeal to fans of classicism in this appellation. The palate
follows on in the same manner, fresh, with lithe and stony fruit. Unimposing, on
the leaner and fresher side, with lots of grip behind it all though, and good
fresh acidity too. Overall, attractive. 15.5/20
Bernard Baudry Chinon 2009: This
cuvée comes from a mix of clay-limestone and gravel. Only just bottled this
week. A deeper colour here. And a darker fruit profile too,
less overtly crunch but it is also fresh and lifted, with an attractive varietal
perfume to the Cabernet Franc fruit. A polished and stony feel to the palate,
with a good substance to it, with a stony and reserved texture. But there is
depth behind it too. It has a gentle minerality which appeals. Overall a
balanced and lightly supple style, with good acidity, and a big wrap of tannins
around the finish. Good. 15.5/20
Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux 2009:
From a gravel terroir. This has now seen twelve months in barrel, the oak
being 4- and 5-years old. There is a warmer feel to this wine on the nose than the preceding cuvées. It has a more polished style of fruit,
with softer edges, and this carries through on the palate as well. It shows here a rich style of fruit, a
more textured palate and overall a more convincing presence in the mouth. There
is good tannic structure behind it, and more supple but correct, balanced
acidity. More tannic structure in the finish. Great potential here. 16.5/20
Bernard Baudry Chinon Clos Guillot 2009:
From a clay-limestone terroir, the vines aged approximately 20 to 30
years says Matthieu. This will be bottled in March 2011. A big, rich colour in
the glass here, still glossy and fresh but with a dark hue. It has seen twelve
months in three-year old oak. A lovely style on the nose, there is a richness to
it, warmth with a honeyed suggestion perhaps reflecting the time in wood. And
there is a lovely freshness and perfume coming from it too. Elegant and
seductive rather than bright and lifted. Fresh, stylish, balanced with a very
fine polish and detachment on the start. Then in the midpalate it reveals more
structure and substance, revealing a layer of ripe and velvety tannins balanced
with supple texture and good fresh acidity. A lovely weight to it, textured but
not heavy or creamy. And it has lots of grip in the finish. Super wine. 17-18/20
Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boisée 2009:
From a clay-limestone terroir, the vines aged approximately 30 to 50 years
says Matthieu. This has 18 months in barrel, and so will not be bottled for some
time yet. A great creamy colour here. A smoky nose, with wonderful fruit expression, concentrated but
without being overly rich or sweet. A full, lightly creamy style on the palate,
with precise and dark fruit again but here with a very pointed definition - although still
very rich, with a massive presence in the mouth. There are tannins here, but
they are very well hidden beneath the fruit. And yet it still remains true to the appellation, with a
persistent freshness and style to the fruit. A firmer style of tannins than Le Clos Guillot in the
finish, and a slowly fading length. This should be great. 18-19/20
