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Chateau Angélus
The history of Angélus is inextricably intertwined with that of the Boüard de Laforest family, who have been patrons of this estate since the early 20th Century. They acquired the vineyards in 1909, when Comte Maurice de Boüard de Laforest was bequeathed the Domaine de Mazaret, part of the estate of his aunt, who was a Souffrain, one of two large landowning families that held sway over vast areas of St Emilion at that time. This small acquisition was augmented, in 1924, by a 3 hectare vineyard, the Clos de L'Angélus, which was acquired from the other grand family of St Emilion, the Gurchys. The vineyard is reputedly one of the few sites in St Emilion where, standing amongst the vines, the Angélus bells of all three of the town's churches - the one in St Emilion itself, the chapel at Mazerat and the older church in St-Martin de Mazerat - are audible, hence the name Angélus, which now applies to the whole estate. In 1959 Maurice de Boüard de Laforest died, and was succeeded by his two sons, Jacques and Christian, who decided to unite the two vineyards, subsequently again augmenting the estate, this time with purchase of a 3 hectare plot from nearby Beauséjour-Bécot in 1969.
In 1976
Hubert de Boüard de Laforest joined the family
business at Angélus, having studied under Emile Peynaud at the Faculté d'Oenologie in Bordeaux, commencing work under the auspices of his uncle. He
continued to accrue knowledge and experience, working at Chateau Thieuley with
Francis Courselle, and making numerous trips to Burgundy, where he discovered
many philosophies and practises that he admired. He quickly realised that there
was considerable room for improvement in all areas, in both the vineyard and the
chai. This started within a few years, with the introduction of new
equipment, stainless steel to replace the vinification vessels which were
concrete, and new barrels for the subsequent maturation of the wines. Following
Hubert taking full control in 1985, Angélus has seen the arrival of
climate-controlled cellars and a new tasting room. Some of these practises have
been incorporated into the winemaking at Angélus, such as the rapid move of the
wine into barrel, where malolactic occurs, and the importance of lees in the
élevage of red wines. These changes may sound relatively minor, but when one
considers that Hubert de Boüard's father never utilised barrel maturation at all, the wine going
from concrete tank into bottle, this was a major shift in direction (and a
huge investment) for Angélus. In the vineyard, there was increased selection
and a new approach, managing the estate plot-by-plot rather than as a single
entity. Fertilisation is organic rather than chemical, there is grass covering
between the rows of vines, and there is much focus of preserving the health of
the soil, ensuring that it remains rich with a diverse array of microbial life.
In 1987 a second wine, Carillon d'Angélus, was introduced. It is, without
doubt, Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, together with his cousin Jean-Bernard Grenie
who subsequently joined Hubert, that have set Angélus on its ascent in the St
Emilion hierarchy.
The Angélus vineyard, which totals 23.4 hectares, is situated on the famous
côtes of St Emilion with the clay and limestone typical terroir
typical of the region. It is planted with 51% Merlot and 47% Cabernet Franc,
with just 2% Cabernet Sauvignon bringing up the rear. The vines have an average
age of about 30 years, and are planted at a density of up to 7000 vines/ha. The
vine canopies are handled so that leaf surface is maximised but grape bunches
are not crowded, and the crop is managed with the aim of low yields without
green harvesting if possible. A typical figure for Angélus is between 35 and 40
hl/ha. The fruit is picked by hand with an aggressive sorting in the vineyard,
then destemmed at the chai, before going into the fermentation vessel which may
be oak, steel or perhaps one of the concrete tanks, which were retained. There
is a cold maceration of up to five days before fermentation gets started. Once
complete, the wine undergoes malolactic and is then matured in oak for up to 22
months. The grand vin is Chateau Angélus of which there are about
10000 cases per annum, and the second wine is the aforementioned Carillon
d'Angélus, of which there are about 1000 cases per annum.
Once called L'Angélus, now simply Angélus, this estate has, under the tenure of Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, been in the ascendant. With investment in the chai and improved viticultural practices in the vineyard, the wines of Angélus have displayed a tangible escalation in quality in recent vintages. This is plain to see on tasting the wines, as the tasting notes for some recent vintages, of both the grand and deuxième wine, presented below make plain; both the 2001 and the 2003 have the edge over the 1998, long hyped as a superior right bank vintage. But the successes have manifested in many other ways too, not only elevation from Grand Cru Classé to Premier Grand Cru Classé B status in 1996, but also a valuable product placement in a Bond film, Casino Royale, an arrangement which seems to have come about as a result of Boüard's friendship with actor Daniel Craig (at least that is would Boüard would have me believe). With continued success, Angélus is surely a front-runner for future elevation to Premier Grand Cru Classé A status, although with the failure of the 2006 revision to the St Emilion classification, perhaps Boüard would benefit more from seeking further exposure on the big screen than he would from wooing any visiting committee members. (3/4/07)
Contact details:
Address: 33330 Saint Emilion
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 24 71 39
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 24 68 56
Internet: www.angelus.com
Chateau Angélus - Tasting Notes
Chateau Angélus (St Emilion) 2007: A deep, brooding nose, stuffed with characterful fruit
with a slightly gamey edge. Very ripe fruit profile on the palate, with a firm
composition and elegantly ripe tannins. A wine of serious intent, this has
plenty of extract although it is not overdone, and carries a fine weight.
Overall, considering the vintage, this is very appealing. From my
2007 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 16-17+/20 (April 2008)
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Chateau Angélus (St Emilion) 2006: M 65%, CF 35%. A evocative, pure
fruit nose, with some sweet oak already. Very indistinct on the palate, flabby,
unfocussed. No vigour or poise, and we should expect both. Soft, although there
are some grippy tannins beneath it all, but it is a little deficient in acidity,
freshness and a general presence on the palate. It is decent wine, but we have
come to expect more from Angélus in recent years. From my
2006 Bordeaux
assessment. 15-16?/20 (April 2007)
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Carillon d'Angélus (St Emilion) 2004: A good depth of colour. Deep,
smoky, delicious cherry fruit on the nose, with some residual toffee oak. Deep
fruit complexity here. It seems more honest, true to the appellation than the
2002. Full, ripe, macerated cherry fruit, creamy and full, quite broad and
indeed a little flashy. Good fruit acidity though. This is stylish, with a nice
grip. Very good potential. 17+/20
(February 2007)
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Chateau Angélus (St Emilion) 2003: 56% CF, 1% CS, 43% M. A Cabernet
Franc vintage, so one to which I am bound to be predisposed. Deep, concentrated,
rather similar to the 2001. Open, flashy, still the cashew nut of recent oak,
rich, with mint, dark chocolate and cherry. Hugely characterful, smoky, has a
little confit character that goes with being a 2003 but it is not as overt as it
is in many wines. Full, huge, creamy and yet structured, well poised, a ripe
core of velvety tannins. A very expressive, grippy style, deep but with good
freshness of fruit despite the heatwave vintage. Wonderful potential here, as
evinced by a flourish of ripe tannins on the finish. Great length too. 18.5+/20
(February 2007)
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Carillon d'Angélus (St Emilion) 2002: Quite transparent when compared
with some of the other wines here. But the nose has surprising character, plenty
of rich, rather dark fruit considering its appearance. Rather smoky, a sweet
fruit gum character, and a little minty. Not the depth I would hope for, but
still very straightforward and primary. Very pure, well delineated, remarkable
fresh. Creamy, textured yet firm. Very vigorous, especially considering the
vintage. Grippy-spicy, but only moderate concentration, not quite the depth I
would like and a short finish. A nice style though. 16+/20 (February 2007)
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Chateau Angélus (St Emilion) 2001: Dark, smoky, concentrated. The palate is broad, well
defined and yet creamy. There is a fine depth, with a great grip, and altogether
this is an integrated, well knit, focussed and yet seductive package. Certainly
a success, although not showing as well as my note from a few months ago -
perhaps because this is a totally different tasting environment. Well done
Hubert de Boüard! From a
Bordeaux tasting with
Bibendum. 17+/20 (April 2007)
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Chateau Angélus (St Emilion) 2001: 60% M, 40% CF. A hugely
concentrated colour, with a deep, inky red hue. A lovely nose, very evocative,
with some plum, plumply spiced black fruit, pure and yet deep. A little mint,
which shows up in a number of the wines, here alongside a little touch of dark
chocolate. Well poised, yet full, creamy, rich and deeply textured on the
palate. Lifted and fresh, with vigour, and considerable power through the
midpalate. Grip. Deep, chewy fruit. Lovely ripe tannic structure, with wonderful
fresh acidity. This is beautifully harmonious, and to my palate surpasses the
1998 right now. A sign, perhaps, of the continued efforts put in by Hubert de
Boüard. 19+/20 (February 2007)
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Chateau Angélus (St Emilion) 1998: 66% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Franc.
Dark, concentrated, vibrant pink-claret rim, with some early colour change
coming through. Plums, cigarbox, sweet fruit, still very primary though. But
there is some emerging complexity. Very rounded and fleshy, forceful, full of
vigour and yet refined, elegant. Textured, balanced, with lovely poise. A touch
silky, but like the nose here the wine still has a very primary, sweet black
fruit nature. Needs close to a decade before this wine will really shine.
Excellent, with stunning potential. 18+/20 (February 2007)
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Chateau Angélus (St Emilion) 1998: Harvest began on September 27th and
lasted a week. This wine has 66% Merlot and 34% Cabernet Franc although there is
also a little Cabernet Sauvignon planted here. Between three
and four weeks maceration. A dense colour. Roasted nuts and dark fruits on the
nose. Great density when tasted, appealing concentration, and still has plenty
of tannic structure at present. A medley of red and dark fruits on the palate,
supple tannins and correct acidity. A great presence on the palate, and a good
clean finish. From a tasting of 1998
St Emilion. 18+/20 (May 2004)
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