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Château Canon

The vineyards of Château Canon, which lie on the road running west out of the town of St Emilion itself, near the heart of the St Emilion appellation, originate from a small vineyard planted around the Church of St-Martin by Jean Biès in the early 18th century. Indeed, at this time, the estate was known as Clos St-Martin - this being a true clos, a vineyard encircled by a wall - rather than Château Canon, as it is known today. The origin of the modern name perhaps becomes a little more clear when we see that in 1760 Biès sold his 13 hectare vineyard to a gentleman by the name of Jacques Kanon, a likely source of the name Canon.

Kanon expanded the estate, bringing it closer to the Château Canon that we know today, purchasing several neighbouring vineyards and constructing a manor house. Despite this apparent commitment and investment, Kanon subsequently sold the estate just a decade or so later, having only just completed the construction of his house in 1767. The vineyards and house were procured by Raymond Fontémoing, one of a dynasty of vignerons of considerable local repute. The Fontémoing family already owned a property in Fronsac named Château Canon, so sensibly they continued to market the wines of their latest acquisition as St-Martin.

This was the case until 1853, when the property was renamed Château Canon. The estate and vineyards were sold several times, before good fortune brought them to André Fournier in 1919. The Fournier family did much good work at Château Canon, including the installation of new wooden fermentation vats in 1980, although it is also true to say that their tenure here was blighted by several problems. Some wines from the early 1990s, by which time André's grandson Eric had taken control, were said to have been tainted by chemicals used to treat roof timbers in the wine cellar. In addition, the vineyards suffered from pourridé, a fungal disease that afflicts vines planted on the sites of old fruit orchards. It may be that both problems contributed to Fournuier's decision to sell Château Canon to the Wertheimer family, of Chanel fame, in 1996. The Chanel team, David Orr and John Kolasa, have already had some success at Rauzan-Ségla, and they are currently emulating that achievement at Canon. Investment by Chanel should sort out any problems in the cellar. Meanwhile, the acquisition of the nearby Curé-Bon vineyard in 2000, with INAO approval for its incorporation into Château Canon (from that vintage onwards), will ensure a continued supply of fruit as the diseased vineyards are replanted.

These vineyards lie to the west of St-Emilion, and with the addition of Curé-Bon the estate has expanded from 18 to 21.5 ha, although only 13 of the original 18 hectares lie within the clos. The terroir is largely limestone, with sparse soils on top, and the vines are 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, on rootstocks 420A and 41B, planted at 5500 vines/ha, with an average age of 25 years. The vines see leaf thinning and a green harvest, before the ripe fruit is hand-harvested to undergo temperature controlled fermentation in Fournier's wooden vats, prior to 18 or so months in barrel, approximately 70% new. The wine is fined with egg whites but not filtered. The grand vin is Château Canon, with rejected fruit going into the second wine, Clos de Canon. Altogether the estate puts out around 7500 cases per annum.

Château Canon is classified as a Premier Grand Cru Classé (Class B) in the 1996 St Emilion classification, this being one of the more relevant Bordeaux classifications (although admittedly that's not saying much) as it is at least updated from time to time. Nevertheless, Château Canon has not always met with universal approval from all critics, although in recent years, under the direction of John Kolasa, opinions do seem to be changing. Certainly my own experience of recent vintages, both grand and deuxième vin, suggest that there is much worth seeking out here. (22/6/06)

Contact details:
Address: 33330 St Emilion
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 55 23 45
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 24 68 00
Internet: www.chateaucanon.com
GPS: 44.892775, -0.163387

Château Canon - Tasting Notes

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Château Canon (St Emilion) 2009: A really very appealing nose here, with black fruits, bright and lifted, in a very expressive manner. There is an elegant suggestion to it that stands out for the vintage. A supple start on the palate, before some slightly charcoaly tannins come in, but they do not overly dominate the palate. There is supple fruit, a firm extract, rather a bold substance, but the fruit maintains a presence here. Firm, certainly full of grip and dark substance, with a sooty edge from the extract. This has substantial potential, but it will need well over a decade to show its true colours. From a tasting of 2009 Bordeaux at two years of age. 18/20 (October 2011)

Château Canon (St Emilion) 2009: The nose here carries some exuberant fruit, black in style, off-set with nuances suggestive of vanilla ice cream. There is a supple style of fruit on entry, fleshy with good substance. It is underpinned by a seam of ripe tannins and crisp acids. The fruit has a fresh and juicy touch to it, but it also has a much more considered application of tannins. Overall it is certainly attractive, showing vigour and life rather than the heavier weight of some. All well-reigned in a very harmonious manner, especially in the context of the vintage. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17.5-18.5+/20 (March 2010)

Château Canon (St Emilion) 2007: Some dark, smoky, cigar-tinged fruit here. It has a dry, bright and perhaps slightly austere style, rather than anything softer. A somewhat lean entry, and the start of the palate doesn't develop much. This leaves the middle of the wine firm, austere and rather harshly composed with rather hotter structure than the rest of the wine can manage. It seems very sinewy and wiry, with a hard and spiky underbelly at times. From a 2007 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 14.5/20 (November 2011)

Château Canon (St Emilion) 2007: Dark, restrained, exotic, with layers of spicy and gritty fruit. A polished palate, although with a really hard structure beneath. There is a lot of tannic grip here, and a firm, rounded substance. There are some attractive fruit elements to be found though. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15+/20 (October 2009)

Château Canon (St Emilion) 2006: A crimson-red hue here. A touch of exoticism to the fruit character, bright and crunchy definition, with a slightly smoky, sweet crumble character to it. The oak again. Suggestive if good fruit density though. Rather a solid composition in the palate, a soft shell of fruit, within which there is a thin seam of tannin which shows more on the finish. Nice acidity and freshness here. Elegant but reserved rather than flattering, Stylish and for classicists. Will need time. From a 2006 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 17+/20 (November 2010)

Château Canon (St Emilion) 2006: This has a dark and characterful nose, with deep, pastille-like fruit, although I should stress it has a savoury rather than sweet feel to it. A supple palate, with good substance, and a nice presence of fruit. The tannins are nicely judged, balanced but firm, with a good acid backbone. This holds together rather well. Very good. From a tasting of 2006 St Emilion & Pomerol. 16.5+/20 (October 2008)

Château Canon (St Emilion) 2004: The nose here carries the aromas of roasted meats and dark red fruits with a mineral streak. It seems to have a nice definition, and does not seem over-ripe or volatile. Indeed the palate is nicely rounded-off, well defined with a good frame of acidity and tannin. Well judged, rather reserved in style, not too flashy or over-done. This will be very good with time in the cellar. From a 2004 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 16.5+/20 (November 2008)

Château Canon (St Emilion) 2004: A more seductive style on the nose here, with appealing, plump, plum and blackberry aromas. Rather plush on the palate, with a cushion of fruit over ripe tannins and some fresh acids. Rather svelte in style, welcoming, but with good grip beneath. Balanced and structured, this is fine. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 17+/20 (October 2006)

Château Canon (St Emilion) 2003: A nose typical of the vintage, with a firm, deep presence of confit plum and cherry fruits. Nevertheless rather cool and detracted on entry, with a little note of freshness on the palate, and good varietally correct plum and fruitcake notes. There is a svelte texture and elegant poise which copes well with the counterpoint of the usually firm wall of tannin. I think this is really impressive for the vintage. 17+/20 (October 2006)

Clos Canon (St Emilion) 2002: The second wine. Good colour. A little closed on the nose, although there are some notes of red-black rather meaty fruit. A very pleasing palate, a little fat supply wrapped around a core of tannin. Not overblown though, instead rather firm and structured, perhaps a little austere in the midpalate. The fruit doesn't quite match up to the tannin here. Nevertheless, a very worthwhile effort. 16/20 (November 2005)

Château Canon (St Emilion) 2001: This has a lovely, seductive, svelte nose of plummy fruit presented in a ripe, dark, velvety manner, complicated by notes of pepper and spice. Finely structured palate, with a delightful undercurrent of velutinous tannins, and a precise balance of flavour, texture and acidity. Very elegantly styled, with undeniable finesse. Truly excellent. I think this has shown very good positive development over the last year. 18+/20 (October 2006)

Château Canon (St Emilion) 2001: Another wine with a lovely depth of colour, and a complex, perfumed nose, still showing the nutty, oak-tinged dark fruits of youth. Ripe and succulent, with ripe, supple tannins, all presented in a medium bodied style. This has a very different character, but maintains wonderful appeal. Great grippy bite near the finish, yet overall a quite seductive presence on the palate. Lovely potential, needs 4-6 years. 17.5+/20 (November 2005)

Château Canon (St Emilion) 2000: A profound, deeply coloured wine. Ripe, complex, nutty, damsony fruit on the nose which hints at an intense concentration. Indeed, this wine has a big, concentrated, creamy style, which coats a core of ripe tannins most adequately. Full, structured style, with appropriate acidity and balance, and so lots of potential. Needs 5-8 years in the cellar I think. 18+/20 (November 2005)

Château Canon (St Emilion) 1998: Purchased by Chanel in 1996; their man on the ground John Kolasa talked us through the wine. An 18 ha site, with ongoing replanting. The vineyards have Merlot 75%, and Cabernet Franc 20%. The grand vin included 46% of the crop. Back to the densely coloured wines here. Dark, plum fruits on the nose, with roasted nuts again. A medium bodied palate, with an appealing velvety touch. Rounded and rich. A good tannic structure behind it, with firm acidity. This is lovely. Great potential. From my St Emilion 1998 horizontal assessment. 17+/20 (May 2004)

Clos Canon (St Emilion) 1998: The second wine. A beautiful depth of colour, obviously concentrated, just showing a little tinge of early maturity. Nutty yet maturing fruit on the nose, with notes of dark plum. Good presence on the palate, showing depth and texture, with lots of ripe structure. Fine and rather complex, and nicely poised. Really very good. 16.5+/20 (November 2005)