Domaine Saint Nicolas, 2018 Update

The chimera wines of Thierry Michon, the whites melding the flavours of more continental varieties with the salty Atlantic climate, the reds richer and more convincing than any red wine from this corner of the Loire Valley has a right to be, are always interesting. And not only interesting, as frequently they are delicious. The whites, various combinations of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Grolleau Gris, carry joyous fruit with saline edges. The reds feature all the Fiefs Vendéens varieties, and while some carry wonderfully fresh fruit the most notable wines are surely Thierry’s various cuvées of Pinot Noir, some of the leading examples of this variety not just in the Nantais, but in the whole Loire Valley.

Thierry Michon, Domaine Saint Nicolas

The 2017 vintage was as difficult here as it was elsewhere. The frost in late April led to extensive damage in the vineyard, hitting the white varieties particularly hard, while the red varieties, in particular the Pinot Noir, largely escaped without significant harm. Curiously this is exactly the opposite of what Jérémie Mourat reported, as he told me his Pinot Noir was hit hardest. The situation was compounded by Thierry’s éolienne (his anti-frost turbine) going on the blink after just one day of use. In the end, Thierry lost 50% of his crop. The white cuvées are small in terms of volume, and breadth of portfolio, but he still has a hearty range of reds.

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