Pierre Luneau-Papin, 2020 Update
Having made efforts to follow the wines of the Loire Valley for at least two decades it is interesting to reflect how my impression of some of the leading domaines have evolved during this time. I recall when I decided I should head out to the Salon des Vins de Loire for the first time, back in 2009 (prior to that point I had focused solely on making visits to vineyards and domaines, which I still do of course), there was a trio of Muscadet vignerons on my hit list, which of course included Pierre Luneau-Papin.
In the decade-and-a bit that has passed since that time the domaine has undergone some significant changes. Most significant has been the passing or responsibility from Pierre to his son and daughter-in-law, Pierre-Marie and Marie Luneau. Unlike one or two other domaines in the region which I feel have lost their way in recent times, foregoing the production of once-great Muscadet Sèvre et Maine for curious cuvées with wacky labels and wax capsules, the handing over of the domaine to a new pair of hands chez Luneau has had a hugely positive impact. There is a sense of dynamic development here led by Pierre-Marie and Marie.
As you might expect the portfolio has grown, with the addition of new cuvées, the result of the latest generation to take the reins here approaching the domaine’s vineyards with fresh eyes. These new cuvées have been introduced with little fanfare, despite the fact that they include Gula Ana, a prototype cuvée for the Goulaine cru. In the vineyards the domaine is now entirely organic, with Pierre-Marie and Marie shifting towards biodynamics with the use of preparations 500 and 501 (horn manure and horn silica respectively). This is no mere affectation; full biodynamic certification is in progress.
In short there has been much change here, and change for the better. And thus I was glad recently to be able to stop off to taste the latest (as well as some older) releases from this domaine, on this occasion with Marie Luneau (pictured).
