Olga Raffault, 2024 Update
In a roll call of favourite domaines in Chinon, it seems likely that Olga Raffault would be highly ranked. Indeed, I suspect for some who know this appellation well, especially those who have had the good sense or good luck to encounter the wines of this domaine in maturity, I suspect there are some who would place this domaine at the top of the Chinon league table.
There is no doubt that the work undertaken by the current generation, namely Olga’s daughter Sylvie Raffault and her husband Eric, has long been worthy of admiration. These are wines which need time to shine though, something I learned the hard way. In a discovery somewhat reminiscent of my experience with an old vintage of Château Cantemerle recently described in my report on the 1996 Château Climens, several decades ago I bought some young vintages of the domaine’s flagship cuvée, Les Picasses, at the cellar door. Pulling the cork on them a few years later left me underwhelmed, and it was not until the wines hit twenty years of age did I realise their true potential.
Since that time I have viewed the wines in a new context, aware of the latent joy hidden within, the key needed to unlock it being time, perhaps two decades or more. Having said that, last year I was struck by how much pleasure I found in the 2017 Les Picasses in its youth; the wine still had the same taut presence, but also a little wisp of caressing texture, just enough to counteract the evident structure of the wine, and to soothe the palate. I would still advise you find a place in the cellar for it, but you could also pull the cork now, should the mood take you.
Earlier this year I met up with Sylvie once more, to taste the latest vintages, including the 2018 Les Picasses, and to see if the 2017 success was a one-off, or if I would be charmed once again.
Please log in to continue reading: