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Older Muscadet at Nouvel Ancrage, 2021

Older Muscadet at Nouvel Ancrage, 2021

This is the fifth and final report on wines I encountered at Nouvel Ancrage, a day of tastings and seminars organised and hosted by the Fédération des Vins de Nantes back in October 2021. It was held at Château de la Frémoire in Vertou, about as close as the Muscadet vineyard gets to the suburbs of Nantes. Reports published in the French wine press during the ensuing days and weeks praised the event, declaring that “more than two hundred wine merchants, sommeliers, restaurateurs and students of wine” had turned up.

The reports failed to mention that among all the cavistes and junior sommeliers there was a lone, dedicated (I’m writing this with a straight face, honest), British attendee, who had driven down from his house just south of Chinon for the day. Any rumours circulating among the vignerons that I had made the trek down to Vertou just for the Nouvel Ancrage oysters, I have to say, are untrue. I was no less keen than all those student sommeliers to taste the latest from the various appellations of the Nantais vineyard.

Although, being honest, a lunch of oysters and Muscadet is hard to beat.

Nouvel Ancrage at Château de la Frémoire, October 2021

So far I have published four reports from the day; I started with a report on 31 crus communaux wines, three from each of the seven ratified and three proposed crus (if you’re doing the maths, yes that does add up to 30; an afternoon seminar added the 31st wine, from Mouzillon-Tillières). I followed up with a deep dive into the 2020 vintage, looking at 39 wines largely from Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, but taking in a selection of other Nantais appellations as well. I then followed up with two micro-reports, each looking at eight wines from the 2019 and the 2018 vintages.

I conclude here with my fifth and final report, another short one, again looking at eight wines, but this time from a selection of older vintages, starting with 2017, and stretching back to 2003.

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