Bordeaux 2019 at Two Years: Appellation Bordeaux
This penultimate 2019 ‘in bottle’ report brings together a rag-tag group of wines, most of which have the region-wide Bordeaux appellation, while a few boast the Graves de Vayres or Entre-Deux-Mers appellation, and a few eschew the appellation system altogether.
While I imagine many readers might skip over this instalment (although I hope not), in truth this report features one of the most diverse and stimulating collection of wines I have tasted. For every anonymous entry-level red there is a fascinating white made from vines on prestigious limestone soils, or from idiosyncratic varieties never before seen in Bordeaux. Others break the Bordeaux mould by training their Merlot vines on lyres, or vinifying the fruit in jarres. While not every such experiment can be said to be a success, in a region often criticised for a lack of diversity and innovation, such adventurous spirits should be acknowledged and nurtured.
And of course, for those who enjoy only the most sparkly of lights, there are famous names here too, including wines from Château Margaux, Château Cos d’Estournel, Château Cheval Blanc, the Guinaudeau family of Château Lafleur, and quite a few more.
