Bordeaux 2019 at Two Years: St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé
It is at times difficult not to slip into strings of superlatives with my St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé reports (as well as a little alliteration, it seems), the very top tier of the classification being packed to the gills with expertly run properties which take advantage of a variety of high-quality terroirs. This is certainly so in 2019, in which the upper echelons of this appellation have yielded some stunning wines.
None of the terroirs represented at this level – mostly the limestone plateau or clay-limestone côtes, and of course there are two properties on the gravels bordering Pomerol – appeared overtly superior to any other, despite the dry and challenging conditions during the summer. There is a strong theme of success with Cabernet Franc running through the wines, though, this variety coming across with a great sense of purity on both nose and palate. The distinction is of course not perfect – there are always exceptions to the rule. But if you point a finger at a château in St Emilion with a reputation for Cabernet Franc, then the chances are you are pointing a finger at a property which, in 2019, has turned out one of the most exceptional wines of this appellation and indeed the entire region.
That doesn’t mean Merlot has lost out of course; that much should be evident, if not from this report, then from others looking at the other wines of St Emilion in 2019, not to mention Pomerol.
