Baudry-Dutour, 2019 Update
One of the largest domaines in the Chinon appellation, created with the fusion of two properties owned by vignerons Christophe Baudry and Jean-Martin Dutour (pictured), Baudry-Dutour turns out a broad range of cuvées in white and red. A lot of the wines sell locally, through la grande distribution as the French put it, and it has always seemed to me that the business model here is one which focuses on volume before all else. The two vigneron-businessmen started by throwing the wines of their own domaines, Domaine de la Perrière and Domaine du Roncée, into the mix, but they have since augmented their portfolio with the acquisition of Château de la Grille as well as vineyards in the western corner of the appellation, at Château de Saint Louans.
On this occasion I returned to take a look at some recent releases from the domaine, focusing on wines from the 2017 vintage, with a couple of representatives from 2015.
The Wines
After a rather varietal Sauvignon Blanc there were two cuvées of Chinon in white, the rather obvious distinction between the two being oak. The 2017 Chinon Blanc 3 Coteaux is vinified in steel, with an attractive reticence, while the 2017 Château de Saint Louans Chinon Blanc sits at the opposite end of the oak spectrum, the wine currently dripping with honey-toasted wood, lending a desiccated edge to the fruit. For my palate, as with other heavily oaked Chenin cuvées, this would need between five and ten years (or perhaps longer) in the cellar before I would even considering pulling the cork.
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