Philippe Alliet, 2016 Update
It is not a mark of a great vigneron that he or she should turn out superb wines in a strong vintage, as enjoyable and worthy of our drinking time as those wines may be. A rising tide lifts all boats, and in benevolent years I like to look out for good quality from all corners, sometimes unexpected and infrequently explored corners. It is a mark of a great vigneron, however, if he or she can keep their cool in the awful vintages, stick to their guns, harvest whatever meagre yields the Gods of Nature have decided they deserve that year, and then turn that crop into something drinkable.
In the case of this brief tasting of the wines of Philippe Alliet, who I rank as top tier in Chinon (although I know this is hardly a unique point of view, as his wines have been acclaimed by many for years), I was able to look at both types of vintage. The 2013 Coteau de Noiré is a credit to Philippe, reaffirming his skill and capability in the world of Chinon. As drinkers looking for the very best quality for our table, however, it is to the 2014 vintage we should look. This is one of those benevolent vintages that has allowed Philippe to bottle a selection of wines which, across the board, are stunning. These are ‘must buys’ for fans of this domaine and this appellation.
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