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Bernard Baudry Update, February 2010
Bernard Baudry
This update relates to wines tasted in February 2010.
For more on this estate, including all my relevant tasting notes, see my Bernard Baudry profile.
There are some domaines where it is always a delight to taste the wines, and naturally Bernard Baudry is one such domaine. Well that's my opinion, anyway, although it is possible I suppose that others might feel differently. Something that happened when I tasted at Baudry's stand last year, at the 2009 Salon, suggested this possibility to me. I was midway through tasting Baudry's range when another taster - an individual I knew by reputation, but was not personally acquainted with - began to taste alongside me. She did not keep her opinions of the wines to herself. "Smells like a wet dog" was her comment on the first offering, whilst the next was judged in a similarly peremptory fashion. "It reeks of sulphur" was her opinion this time. My eyes nearly popped out; believe me, there was nothing canine about any of Baudry's 2007s, which were some of the best wines of the appellation in what was a difficult vintage. And, being sulphur-sensitive - for example, I find most of the non-vintage Champagnes at the annual CIVB tasting reek of the stuff, a characteristic that rides roughshod over every other possible aroma - I was certain Baudry's wines had no such problem either.
Clearly, some of us live in very different taste-worlds.
But that was 2009. One year on and I returned to Baudry's stand at the 2010
Salon, situated in its usual position, near the entrance to the main hall. I
soon found myself tasting a selection of new wines, starting with some embryonic creations from
the 2009 vintage, followed by a number of soon-to-be-bottled wines from 2008,
with a single 2007 bringing up the rear. This time it was Bernard Baudry's son, Matthieu
(pictured left), who talked me
through the wines. Once again I was presented with a sequence of high quality
wines possessing pure fruit with a clean, crystal-like style, with wonderful
balance. And when it came to the 2009 vintage, the portfolio was very strong,
with both the Clos Guillot and La Croix Boisée showing brilliantly. The latter
needs 10 or maybe 15 years in the cellar before it will really hit its stride, I
think. Matthieu's response to my enquiry regarding his opinion of the vintage
was straightforward and to the point. "Très riche" was his reply, accompanied by
a knowing smile. I agree with his assessment; this is clearly a superb vintage
for the region, and Baudry is certainly going onto my 2009 shopping list. May I
suggest these wines also go on yours?
(23/2/10)
Bernard Baudry, February 2010 - Tasting Notes
The wines below were tasted in Angers at the
Salon des
Vins de Loire in February 2010. All my notes on the
wines of Bernard Baudry, including those below, are collated under my
Bernard Baudry
profile. Click
to locate stockists.
Bernard Baudry Chinon Rosé 2009: 100% Cabernet Franc, made with skin contact
rather than a saignée. No malolactic fermentation. Not yet bottled - due to be
so in March. A lovely hue, more gris than rosé. A delicate nose, floral, light
peach fruit with a touch of cream. A vibrant palate, fresh but also forceful,
with lots of spicy acidity. Dry with great character. This would be great with
salmon. 16/20
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Bernard Baudry Chinon Blanc 2009: From a clay-limestone terroir, and 5-6
year-old vines. No malolactic fermentation and just 2.5 g/l residual sugar.
Clean and precise fruit on the nose, very expressive, with bright notes of
yellow plum. The palate has a lovely feel to it, bright like the nose, with
green-yellow fruit character and good acids. Overall a rather tense and nervous
style, minerally too. Good wine. 16/20
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Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Granges 2009: The entry-level wine, below the
domaine cuvée. The terroir is gravel and sand, the vines 20-years old. Fermented
100% en cuve, no barriques here. A bluish rim, a very young wine, and a bright
nose, clean with creamed forest fruits. Served rather cool, and showing a dry,
minerally, gravelly character, with very structured fruit. Light and elegant in
terms of substance, but there is good tannin here. 15-16+/20
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Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux 2009: The terroir here is more
gravelly-pebbly, although the vines (60-years old) are quite close to those for
Les Granges. Has been in oak for the past two months. A darker colour here,
still with a bluish rim, a little gloss as well. Clean and fresh, with a little
more concentration. A lovely and flattering texture on the palate, nicely
balanced and fresh, with a good acid backbone. Vibrant, with a tannic finish.
Ripe fruit character. Good potential here. 16.5-17+/20
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Bernard Baudry Chinon Clos Guillot 2009: A clay and limestone terroir again.
A beautifully glossy hue here, notes of minerals and stone, over a layer of dark
and creamy fruit. Very restrained in style, although very textured and
fruit-rich through the middle it is well-framed from the beginning with acid and
tannin. A ripe flourish of tannin in the finish shows this is one for the cellar.
Excellent potential. 17.5-18.5+/20
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Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boisée 2009: This is from a pure limestone
terroir, tuffeau as it is known locally. A great nose here, rich and dense, with
pure ripe fruit. Dark, concentrated, with a slightly sooty edge perhaps
reflecting the wine's tannic substance. This is exactly what the palate possesses;
dense substance, very rich yet balanced, with a firm tannic core giving the wine
a monumental structure. This is a huge wine, a vin de garde, which requires
10-15 years before it will be ready. 18-19+/20
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Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Granges 2008: There is lots of admirable character
here, with a lovely Cabernet Franc style on the nose, very typically Chinon, with
notes of gravel with the fruit. Less substance than the 2009, a little leaner,
but a very attractive, pretty wine which will be drinking well soon. 15.5/20
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Bernard Baudry Chinon 2008: The domaine cuvée is an assemblage of fruit, half
from flat, gravelly terroirs, half from the higher slopes. This has only been in
bottle ten days. A nice, firm style on the nose, ripe, perhaps even a touch
confit, with a sweet edge to the typical Cabernet Franc aromas. The palate is
very well composed, elegant, with some good flesh to it. Finishes very nicely.
Showing remarkably well for a just-bottled wine. 16+/20
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Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux 2008: This cuvée has also been bottled
just ten days ago. A pretty nose, with a warmer style of fruit here, certainly
aromatic with a good, defined, stony-minerally element. The palate has a pretty
but firm and grippy structure with a rich, mouth-filling style, an impression
that reflects the wine's presence rather than texture. In fact it has a rather
nervous character, with fine, purely expressed fruit. Really good. 16.5+/20
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Bernard Baudry Chinon Clos Guillot 2008: Currently still in oak, due to be
bottled in March 2010. A great colour here, still with a remarkably
youthful-looking blue-tinged hue. The nose is delightful, very open and
accessible, with warm but well defined fruit. The palate shows lots of structure
and buoyant acids, backing up a layer of open and sweet fruit. The tannins are
ripe, giving a good composition to the wine. Lovely stuff, but it deserves 3-5
years of cellar time I think. 17+/20
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Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boisée 2008: Again still currently in oak, and
not due to be bottled until September 2010. The nose is evocative, with a
fabulous array of fruits, mostly fresh and red in character but also a touch of
peach. Fine creamed-fruit character on the palate, complex and dense but also
structured, with plenty of ripe, dark tannins at the core. Great density. This
wine needs a lot of time. Excellent. 18+/20
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Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boisée 2007: A second sample, the first bottle
opened having been corked. A good, direct and elegant style on the nose, with
pure and fresh fruit character. It is somewhat gravelly, lighter and aromatic
than usual. The palate shows that this just isn't ready yet; a moderate texture
with gentle fruit, with a good tannic core. This needs time, perhaps a couple of
years. It is exceptionally good for such a difficult vintage. 16.5+/20
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