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Vincent Carême

Finding an unsung domaine is a rare treat, but happily it is one that perhaps occurs more often in the Loire than Bordeaux or Burgundy. This is a landscape where vineyards are still relatively cheap, and where enthusiasm and energy can count for much. Young start-ups, often gathering together just a hectare or so, perhaps a mix of inherited and rented vines, can quickly find themselves turning out top quality Savennières, Vouvray or Sancerre. A similar story in Burgundy would of course quickly become an international news story; here it can go unnoticed for what might seem like forever. Too many people remain blinkered by the allure of Margaux and Montrachet to pay any attention to what is happening in the Loire.

Vincent Carême is one such story. I discovered this eponymous domaine and its owners (shown above) at the 2010 Salon; Tania, Vincent's South African wife, poured his wines whilst I tasted and scribbled. Vincent is not from a background of intense viticultural experience it seems, his parents having been vegetable farmers, although they did have 5 hectares of vines. This little vineyard was the nidus around which the present-day domaine formed, although not before Vincent studied and gained the requisite New World experience which seems de rigueur these days, working in South Africa (where he and Tania met), as well as Champagne, Alsace, Sancerre and Muscadet.

Vincent Carême: Vines & Viticulture

Vincent and Tania started up in Vouvray in 1999, renting and then buying vineyards, adding another 10 hectares to those inherited from his parents, taking them up to their current total of 15 hectares (7 hectares owned, 8 rented). Perhaps the jewel in the Carême crown is Le Clos, a small vineyard added to the portfolio in 2003 when he and Tania purchased their house; the first vintage they made from these vines was 2004, and in the line up of wines I tasted this cuvée was certainly the strongest.

When Carême isn't teaching viticulture in Amboise he looks after their vines, which are tended along organic lines, the whole domaine being certified. They allow grasses and other natural vegetation to grow between the rows and around the vines, and control yields with hard pruning, typically achieving between 35-45 hl/ha. The harvest is by hand, the pickers passing through the vineyard in several tries, facilitating selection for quality and also for the production of sweeter cuvées, including première trie examples. The temperature-controlled fermentations rely on the indigenous yeasts without chaptalisation, and they limit the addition of sulphur to the absolute minimum.

The wines themselves are very true to the appellation, and although I have already extolled the virtues of Le Clos above all others, the sparkling wines are also worth a specific mention. There are two styles to choose from, starting with the Brut, a méthode traditionelle wine made with the addition of yeast alone (no sugar) to the bottle for the second fermentation, and zero dosage thereafter. Then there is the Ancestrale, a méthode ancestrale obviously, where the bottling interrupts the first (and only) fermentation so that there is continued carbon dioxide production in bottle, delivering the iconic pétillant style that the appellation is justly famous for. I must confess, I prefer the latter style in general, and I remain true to my preferences with Carême's wines. With the still wines there is a very solid range of cuvées, from sec through tender demi-sec up to the aforementioned moelleux and première trie cuvées, all worthy of tasting, buying and drinking. These latter two activities in particular seem very appropriate with these wines, and I intend to be doing just that as soon as possible. (22/6/10)

Contact details:
Address: 1 rue du Haut Clos, 37210 Vernou-sur-Brenne
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 52 71 28
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 52 01 36

Vincent Carême - Tasting Notes

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Vincent Carême Vouvray Brut 2008: This is a méthode traditionelle wine, a secondary fermentation in bottle being the source of the fizz, brought on with added yeast only. There is no added sugar at this point, and no subsequent dosage. Lovely freshness on the nose, vibrant, full in the mouth, rich with lively acidity. Great mousse, fabulous poise, ebullient and full of mineral character. A very well styled sparkling Vouvray rich in typicité. 17.5/20 (February 2010)

Vincent Carême Vouvray L'Ancestrale 2008: The méthode ancestrale involves bottling during the primary fermentation, thus fostering the fizz. Again, no added sugar here. Disgorged just 10 days ago. A lovely style, fresh and floral, sweet and dried fruits here, the winey characteristics are much more prominent here, the bubbles seeming incidental. I really like that! Beautiful clarity on the palate, certainly a more lifted pétillant style, but creamy too. Superb. 18+/20 (February 2010)

Vincent Carême Vouvray Sec 2008: From an clay-flint terroir, fermented in barrel and then aged 8 months in wood, none new. A floral nose, pure, with a lightly dried fruit character. Rich and stylish on the palate, good acidity and a nice substance, well balanced and fresh. The fruit at this point has a gently honeyed character, preceding a flourish of firm acidity at the end. Good. 16/20 (February 2010)

Vincent Carême Vouvray Tendre Demi-Sec 2008: This cuvée sees 12 months in oak, 10% new, and has 28 g/l residual sugar. A sweet and fat style here, dried fruit character, lovely character. On the palate a fleshy richness, minerally, good acidity, a gently composed substance. Finely polished style here in the finish. Overall this is a very attractive wine. 17+/20 (February 2010)

Vincent Carême Vouvray Moelleux 2008: This cuvée has 72 g/l residual sugar, which for the 2008 vintage is pretty impressive (it is not a vintage that gave birth to many prodigiously sugary cuvées). Fresh white fruit on the nose, light honey too. A lovely, elegant, sweet fruit style. A fine character, very typical of the appellation, fresh and broad and expressive. Expansive and elegant, lots of fresh cut, within the context of the vintage it has a beautiful and very high quality style. 17.5+/20 (February 2010)

Vincent Carême Vouvray Le Peu Morier 2007: From a 3-hectare plot, fermented in oak before 12 months in barrel, 10% new. An interesting style here, dried fruit again, a tinge of volatility to the fruit. Very fresh on the palate though, vibrant, stony-edged, the fruit less dried than the nose suggestion. A good acid structure, well textured, firm edges, with a flourish of well defined fruit at the finish. A fine style. 16.5+/20 (February 2010)

Vincent Carême Vouvray Le Clos 2007: From a limestone terroir, produced from 50-60 year-old vines, harvested at a typical 24 hl/ha. Fermented in oak using 400-litre barrels, where the wine rests for 18 months, with 15% of the wood being new. A good, vibrant, lightly honeyed style on the nose here, white fruit, very harmonious in character. Fresh, rich but balanced, vigorous and yet restrained at the same time. A very fine quality here through to the finish, which has a polished feel. My favourite of the three drier styles tasted here today. 17+/20 (February 2010)