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François Chidaine

Over the years, François Chidaine and I seem to have had a series of brief encounters at tastings, or near misses, but never an in-depth meeting. An appointment to meet and taste at his shop La Cave Insolite, in Montlouis, which I had to call off, is one example. A chance encounter at a Biodyvin tasting at Chateau Fonroque, in Bordeaux, when looming appointments at Cheval Blanc and Le Pin prevented any lengthy discussion, is another. At the Renaissance des Appellations tasting in February 2009 I had a similar encounter, where any detailed discussion of the wines on show was prevented by the thronging mass of eager French tasters. Fortunately, the ensuing three days at the Salon provided a good opportunity to revisit these wines and others in a more leisurely fashion, and hopefully gain a slightly better grasp of the Chidaine style.

François Chidaine started out working exclusively in the Montlouis appellation, Vouvray's less prestigious sibling which sits on the opposite bank of the Loire. Unlike some of his peers who I have profiled, such as Jacky Blot, Chidaine was born into a vigneron's family, his father Yves having several hectares of vines in Husseau, a small Touraine village. When he started out in 1989 he worked alongside his father, although on separate plots of vines which totalled only 4.5 hectares, and with the passage of time it would appear that François has eclipsed the efforts of his forebear. He has achieved this using natural methods in the vineyards, which were initially certified organic (although this fact was not publicised) and have since 2003 been certified biodynamic (Biodyvin certification, hence my brief encounter at Fonroque), having begun the process of conversion in 1999. This was the same year that François opened La Cave Insolite in Montlouis-sur-Loire with his wife Manuela. Since then he has continued to expand his domaine, including the purchase of some vineyards across the river in Vouvray.

As a consequence of this expansion the Chidaine domaine, which he runs in conjunction with his cousin Nicolas-Martin, covers at least 33 hectares. About two-thirds of these vines are in Montlouis, and as already mentioned there are several plots in the Vouvray appellation, amounting to something like 10 hectares in total, this accounting for the remaining one-third.

Chidaine in Montlouis

Dealing with the Montlouis vineyards first, here there are vines in Clos de Breuil, Le Volagray and Les Landes; these all have flinty terroir, a soil-type known locally as les perruches. Nearby are Clos Renard and Les Epinais, two plots where the flint is mixed with clay and limestone, the local aubuis soil. Finally, in Les Bournais and Clos Habert, there are limestone terroirs sometimes known as bournais hence the name of the first of these two sites. Although these differing terroirs naturally have the capability to yield wines of differing styles and sweetness depending on the vintage, the Clos du Breuil is always vinified to dryness and thus bottled as a sec, and it might thus be considered the linchpin of the Chidaine portfolio. The fruit of Clos Habert, a site blessed with 60-year-old vines, are harvested in up to four tries and then fermented to yield a demi-sec. As for Les Bournais, the wine here could be fermented to dryness - as in 2007 - or it may yield a much sweeter wine, as in 2005, when there was 47 g/l of residual sugar in the finished cuvée.

In addition there are non-site specific cuvées, including Les Tuffeaux, a blend of fruit from across all terroirs, which usually ends up as a vin tendre, which in terms of residual sugar sits between a sec and demi-sec. Then there is a moelleux, obviously produced only in favourable vintages, which is formed from the fruit of old vines - some as much as 90 years-old - in Clos Renard and Les Epinais. In less than favourable vintages the product of these venerable vines goes into either Les Tuffeaux, or under another label, Les Choisilles. In truly exalted vintages there is also a sélection de grains nobles called Les Lys, a moelleux made only from nobly rotten fruit. There is also a Brut Méthode Traditionelle made with the fruit from young vines; picked ripe, this is a wine bottled without dosage, the secondary fermentation within bottle utilising only the natural residual sugar.

Chidaine in Vouvray

The story of Chidaine and his foothold in Vouvray is one that I have touched on before in my profile of the famed Poniatowski domaine. A descendent of the Polish royal family, Philippe Poniatowski had been tending his Vouvray domaine, including the Clos Baudoin, perhaps one of the greatest sites of the whole appellation, for decades. With his advancing age and no heir, he began to look for a buyer for the estate shortly after the turn of the century, and he soon entered negotiations with the owner of a local bottling company. When Chidaine got wind of this it wasn't long - it was in 2002 - before he and Poniatowski had struck a deal which meant that the Polish prince held onto his land, whilst Chidaine would tend the vines and make the wines. This arrangement would last for five years, with Chidaine given the option to buy at the end of the contract. As if to cement the deal, Chidaine's cousin Nicolas-Martin, himself a young winemaker who was working with François Barmes in Alsace, took up residence at the cottage within the Clos Baudoin. Five years later, as 2006 drew to a close, Chidaine finally took full ownership of the domaine. His time in charge had been well spent; the vineyards - particularly the famed Clos Baudoin - were far from immaculate on his arrival, and he has been working to return them to a state of health, and match the biodynamic status of his Montlouis vines.

Although Montlouis looks across at Vouvray from the other bank of the Loire, many have noted that this is the first time in recorded history that such an arrangement - a man of Montlouis owning vineyards in Vouvray - has been in existence. Vouvray and Montlouis may be physically separated by nothing more than a river, but politically and socially these two communes are worlds apart. I would like to point those people, however, towards Jacky Blot, who has been tending vines in both appellations for years. Blot, however, was not a native of Montlouis, whereas Chidaine was; that is the difference. Besides, it's also a really good story, one that illustrates the small-town politics of La France Profonde quite nicely, and so perhaps we shouldn't pick apart the detail too much!

The result is the addition of several Vouvray cuvées to the Chidaine portfolio, starting with the most obvious, the Clos Baudoin. A 3-hectare site populated with 70-year-old vines (trained in a gobelet fashion), this was Poniatowski's and now Chidaine's greatest site, and perhaps - like Huet's Clos du Bourg - one of the candidates for grand cru status in Vouvray, should such a classification ever be brought into existence. The soils here are clay and chalk, with deeper tuffeau. Then comes Les Argilles, sourced from 40-year-old vines and Le Bouchet, a moelleux from 50-year-old vines and - despite Chidaine's domaine being 90% committed to still wines - there is also a pétillant Vouvray produced.

François Chidaine: Vines & Philosophy

Chidaine's vines tend to be trained low, hugging the warmth of the ground. They are largely between 40 and 80 years old, and are all Chenin Blanc, naturally. Harvest is by hand usually commencing in mid-October, and yields are typically 35 hl/ha across the domaine, varying according to the vintage; 2003, for example, produced a considerably lower figure. As indicated above they are carded for along strictly biodynamic lines. In the cellars, the Chidaine fruit is first pressed using pneumatic equipment, before transfer to 620-litre demi-muids (occasionally smaller barrels may be used) for vinification, using only indigenous yeasts. Here the wines undergo alcoholic fermentation, and malolactic fermentation is not encouraged. They then remain here for typically 12 months of élevage on the lees before bottling, usually as per the cuvées described above.

That Chidaine has resolutely converted the majority of his domaine to biodynamic viticulture, without one beat of the biodynamic drum in public - his labels carry no mention of the domaine's status or certification - should say something about the character of the man. Whenever I spot him he looks resolute, serious and thoughtful and his methods are exacting, precise, perhaps even demanding. His wines I think reflect that, showing a precise, defined linearity that exceeds my expectations for Montlouis (as do the wines of Jacky Blot). In Vouvray, however, a judgement of the wines is perhaps best served by reflecting on those from the Poniatowski era.

The transition of ownership from Poniatowski to Chidaine was notable in the UK as the market was swamped with bottles of Poniatowski's wines. The Prince had maintained huge stocks of some of his wines, not just moelleux from great vintages, but aged sec cuvées, and sparklers too, and the time had come to sell these off. Even if we are to overlook the standard of viticulture and winemaking during the Poniatowski era, both of which are certainly open to question, his ability to market and sell the wines - obviously an essential part of any vineyard business model - was lacking. The wines that suddenly appeared included moelleux cuvées from 1989 and 1990, two great vintages for Vouvray, with more than 15 years bottle age, and naturally the combination of maturity and a good price meant that many drinkers snapped them up, including me. I took not only the more ageworthy sweeter wines but also dry wines from lesser vintages that should have sold though a long time ago, such as 1984. No-one can accuse me of being unwilling to experiment!

These wines will give much pleasure, and for my part will make useful and inexpensive additions to twenty-year-on tastings, but I think it is now essential that we view these wines in the light of those now emanating from these vineyards under the direction of François Chidaine. Even in a vintage like 2007, not a strong season which yielded largely sec cuvées, the Chidaine wines show a purity and freshness which is admirable. This is the Chidaine style, and it can be traced back though the vinification to the care that he exacts in the vineyard. His wines serve to show up those of the Poniatowski era for the under-performers that they are, wines that were undoubtedly regal but which lacked precision, definition and sometimes even a sense of cleanliness. Draw no conclusions about the wines from that era until you have tasted those of Chidaine, would be my advice. He is bringing this domaine, and the famed Clos Baudoin, back to life. (18/8/09)

Contact details:
Address: 5, Grande-Rue, 37270 Montlouis-sur-Loire
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 45 19 14
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 45 19 08
Internet: www.francois-chidaine.com

François Chidaine - Tasting Notes

Organising such an array of tasting notes, with so many different wines, can be difficult. I order these notes by appellation as follows; first the entry-level wines from Touraine, then Montlouis and Vouvray last. Some wines have multiple tasting notes; the most recent are always listed first. Click to locate stockists.

Touraine

François Chidaine Touraine Sauvignon 2009: Very fresh but gentle fruit on the nose here, notes of yellow plum, certainly an appealingly ripe style which is welcome. A good character, fresh, with lots of bite. A nice zip and depth on the finish, quite sappy and structured in terms of style. Overall, good, especially when one considers the appellation and its peers. From a 2010 update. 15/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Touraine Rosé 2009: This is a blend of Gamay, Grolleau and Pinot Noir, comprising one-third of each. A very fine, pale hue in the glass, and fresh raspberry fruit on the nose. Bright, quite characterful and well defined. Stony rather than creamy, a good dry style, with a little flesh but no overt signs of unwelcome residual sugar. A good effort. From a 2010 update. 15/20 (February 2010)

Montlouis

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos du Breuil 2008: This cuvée is always vinified until dry. Flinty soils, residual sugar 5 g/l. A fresh and open nose here, a good crisp style of fruit, showing an appealing purity. Very supple in terms of style, lovely acidic core, linear with straight-edged flavours. Classically styled, perhaps a touch more so than the 2007. From a 2010 update. 16-17+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Choisilles 2008: This cuvée usually includes fruit from Clos Renard and Les Epinais when the vintage does not favour the production of a moelleux cuvée. A minerally nose here, otherwise it comes across as very restrained. The palate shows a remarkable presence of flesh, a fine acidity, with lots of polished substance. Gentle, elegant character here, although it yields to a tighter grip towards the end of the palate. Could be lovely. From a 2010 update. 16-17+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Bournais 2008: Whether this cuvée is dry or sweet depends on the vintage; as in 2007 it is towards the drier end although I do sense a little residual sugar here I think. Smoky fruit on the nose, with open and expressive character. A very fine palate, beautifully delineated texture, this is a wine that just glides across the mouth, displaying an excellent composition of fruit and polish but also a powerful structure and a keen acidic core. Although this is lovely now, the grip that flanks the finish, and also the laser-like acidity here, will keep this healthy for years and years. From a 2010 update. 17.5-18+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Bournais Franc de Pied 2008: The same vineyard, but from a small selection of ungrafted vines. Whereas I often find minor differences between matching cuvées here the distinctions in style are striking; this is a very different wine to that made from vines on American rootstock. The nose is elegant, with notes of flowers and white stone. This same beauty comes through on the palate, with even greater finesse, around a surging core of minerals and stone. Broad, concentrated, with amazing grip and great length. A real treat to taste. From a 2010 update. 17.5-18.5+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos Habert Demi-Sec 2008: The soils here are limestone and clay, the vines 60-years old, and the wine usually a demi-sec, with 15.5 g/l residual sugar here. the nose in this vintage is precise, with nuances of citrus fruits, cream and vanilla flowers. A divinely textured palate follows on, so vigorous and energetic, creamy and yet defined. This is astonishing wine, so perfectly composed I struggle to find an adequate description. I am sure this will keep well in the cellar, but I don't think I could resist drinking it now for the sheer joy it brings. From a 2010 update. 18-19+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Tuffeaux 2008: This is a non-site specific cuvée, taking fruit from across all sites, usually gently sec tendre to demi-sec or thereabouts, in this vintage firmly demi-sec at 19 g/l residual sugar. White fruits and flowers on the nose, typical young Chenin Blanc, presented in an ethereal fashion. The wines itself is a model of restraint on the palate compared with the evocative Clos Habert, its fine core of acidity building firmly in the midpalate giving it a great vigour, but without so much exuberant aroma. Good purity though, lovely citrus and cream and mineral elements on the palate, a vigorous finish, and great length. This is a wine of beauty. From a 2010 update. 17.5-18.5+/20 (February 2010)

Vouvray

François Chidaine Vouvray Les Argiles 2008: An assemblage of several parcels, the vines having an average age of 40 years. Residual sugar 6 g/l. This wine has a very linear nose, with clean and defined fruit. It has an amazingly silky texture for the level of sugar, cut through by plenty of clean acidity at the core. The palate carries a wave of gently polished stony white fruit, exhibiting beautiful purity and style as it does so. A very good wine, with a long finish too. From a 2010 update. 16-17+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Vouvray Clos Baudoin 2008: A south-facing site, 3 hectares in size, with clay over limestone or tuffeau as it is known locally. Very restrained white fruit on the nose here, a fine structure, handsomely composed. It presents a structure resembling a polished shell, inside a densely coiled character which is not ready to be revealed, all around it a seam of acidity. Intense, grippy, huge substance but well polished, this is a wine of great potential which needs to be left well alone in the cellar for a few years. From a 2010 update. 17-18+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Vouvray Le Bouchet 2008: This cuvée is generally sweet, demi-sec or moelleux, and is sourced from 50-year old vines on clay-limestone terroirs. A fresh and ethereal character on the nose, citrus and cream, and a much firmer style than the two Montlouis demi-secs in this vintage. Notes of stone, lightly sprinkled with flower petals. Firm, beautifully textured, vibrant and tingly. A vigorous wine with wonderful character and great potential. From a 2010 update. 17-18+/20 (February 2010)

Montlouis

François Chidaine Montlouis Brut Méthode Traditionelle 2007: This is a non-dosé cuvée. A fine minerality on the nose, intense, with pungent stony fruit. On the palate the depth of fruit isn't quite what I expected considering the quality on the nose, nevertheless it has a great structure, some creamy minerality and a sappy acid style. Firm, linear, dry and well composed. From a 2010 update. 16/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos du Breuil 2007: The vines range from 30 to 90 years of age here. Yield 35 hl/ha, residual sugar less than 1 g/l. This cuvée is always vinified until dry. Flinty soils. An appealing nose here, polished yellow-golden fruits, pure and stony-subtle rather than overtly expressive. A gentle polish, a nice linear character, with a gentle flesh. Very mineral, appealingly styled, just moderate concentration. An admirable and eminently approachable wine. From a 2010 update. 16.5/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos du Breuil 2007: The nose here is bright and lifted, showing some lovely pear fruit, and still a good vein of minerals too. The palate shows the same firm structure and minerality as it has done previously, nicely defined, with good substance. Lots of good grip in the midpalate, bright, dry and delineated, with a sappy-grippy finish. Really good potential here. 16.5-17+/20 (February 2009)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos du Breuil 2007: The terroir here is clay and flint. This has a really appealing nose, showing complex fruit. The palate is weighty and complex, and certainly has substance. There is an intense minerality which dominates the flavour profile, and a great acid structure beneath it. I find this to be really appealing. 16.5-17+/20 (April 2008)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos Habert 2007: This has 12 g/l residual sugar. A really lovely nose here, full of white pepper and pears, and ripe stone fruit. There is a fine palate to follow, soft, gentle and minerally; it doesn't have the grip of the preceding wines, but there is a fine and broad substance beneath. Full bodied and substantial, with a slightly bitter finish, this is really very good indeed. 17-17.5+/20 (February 2009)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Choisilles 2007: This cuvée usually includes fruit from Clos Renard and Les Epinais when the vintage does not favour the production of a moelleux. The vines are 30 to 90 years of age. This has only 5.1 g/l residual sugar, a fact I would never have guessed from my tasting of the wine, which has such toothsome panache. Polished, sweetly-ripe fruit here, with a fine, needle-like core of minerals within. A finely composed character, fleshy, a slightly richer style than the preceding wines, with a lovely sheen to it. Framed, defined and delicious, with bright fruit and lively minerality, and most striking of all a beautiful texture. Lovely. From a 2010 update. 17-17.5+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Bournais 2007: A clay-limestone terroir here, hence bournais, a name for this type of stone. Whether this cuvée is dry or sweet depends on the vintage; in this vintage it is firmly towards the drier end. The vines are 60 years old, the yield 37 hl/ha, residual sugar 4.8 g/l. Young vines too, just ten years old. An enticing nose here, a melange of pure vanilla ice cream swirled with citrus fruits. Again, like Les Choisilles, a beautifully rich and polished palate, with a great acid core. Minerally too, delicious midpalate style, tighter at the edges but also grippy at the core. This is splendid, evocative yet elegant wine. Great potential here. From a 2010 update. 17.5+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos Habert Demi-Sec 2007: The soils here are limestone, the vines 60 years old, and the wine usually a demi-sec, in this vintage true to form with residual sugar sitting at 12.1 g/l. The yield is lower than some at 29 hl/ha. The fruit character has evolved into citrus and peach on the nose, a wonderfully vibrant and creamy wine, a swirl of mango and mineral. A gliding, elegant palate, lots of interest here. A very balanced form, the acidity enhancing the finesse and harmony of the wine. This is very supple, restrained, with complex fruits as on the nose, and a good length too. Great wine. From a 2010 update. 17.5-18+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Tuffeaux 2007: This is a non-site specific cuvée, taking fruit from across all sites, usually gently sec tendre to demi-sec or thereabouts. The vines are 30 to 90 years old, the yield 43 hl/ha. In this vintage it is more demi-sec at 14.9 g/l residual sugar. It actually seems a little tighter than the Clos Habert on the nose, although it is no less interesting in terms of aroma, elements of peach mixed with vanilla. Quite tense on the palate, a finer composition here, plenty of finesse. Perhaps less rounded but still a very polished, well-defined style. Fine. From a 2010 update. 17.5+/20 (February 2010)

Vouvray

François Chidaine Vouvray Les Argiles 2007: An assemblage of several parcels, the yield 31 hl/ha, the vines 40-years old. This cuvée is always vinified until dry, and the residual sugar is 2.8 g/l. A more appealing nose here than the Clos du Breuil, a little touch of honey and some well-framed fruit. More open than my last tasting. Soft and rounder texture on the palate, but still very fresh and stylish. Nicely poised, great firm acidity, and a good minerally character alongside the fruit. Lots of appeal here. From a 2010 update. 17+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Vouvray Les Argilles 2007: This is rather reticent on the nose, especially compared with the Clos du Breuil, with just a little stony aromatic character. The palate shows good form though; it is fairly closed, but there is a lot of substance and texture. A good broad character, with lots of grip in the structure. This has really good, tightly wound promise; more than the Breuil, I think. 16.5-17+/20 (February 2009)

François Chidaine Vouvray Clos Baudoin 2007: The old Poniatowski climat, 70-year old vines, harvested at 28 hl/ha. Residual sugar 2.7 g/l. There is lovely depth and interest here, the aromas of minerals mixed with citrus fruit, but with great depth. Appealing and structured, clean and firm, with fresh acid. Flavours of apples and pears, this has delightful dry style. This is my first taste of wine from this vineyard since Chidaine took control; it has a very distinctive style that sings of the terroir, and is very impressive. 17-17.5+/20 (April 2008)

François Chidaine Vouvray Le Bouchet 2007: This cuvée is generally sweet, demi-sec or moelleux, and is sourced from 50 year-old vines on clay-limestone terroirs, although in this vintage it has only 15.8 g/l residual sugar. All the same, it has a beautiful honeyed edge, great definition, ripe and yet so fresh. There is sweetness, although offset by a vibrant, laser-like acidity. A beautiful flesh and definition, overall great vigour. Delicious wine, although at the very bottom end of the moelleux scale in terms of impact on the palate. But wine is about more than impact! From a 2010 update. 17.5+/20 (February 2010)

Montlouis

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Choisilles 2006: This has gently honeyed pear fruit on the nose, ripe, expressive and fresh. There is a little residual sugar evident on the palate, but this is nicely countered by plenty of grip and acidity, more the former in fact, and good minerality. A very attractive style overall, showing softness and warmth on the nose which partially translates onto the palate which has good grip and substance. Good potential. 16.5-17+/20 (February 2009)

Vouvray

François Chidaine Vouvray Pétillant Méthode Ancestrale 2004: Wow! This has a really intense minerality on the nose, a rocky pungency swirled with smoky fruit giving this wine an enthralling character. The palate is restrained, showing a very typical light pétillance which does not detract from the wine's admirable qualities. A very dry style with plenty of punch. Lovely. From a 2010 update. 18/20 (February 2010)