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François Chidaine

Over the years, François Chidaine and I seem to have had a series of brief encounters at tastings, or near misses, but never an in-depth meeting. An appointment to meet and taste at his shop La Cave Insolite, in Montlouis, which I had to call off, is one example. A chance encounter at a Biodyvin tasting at Château Fonroque, in Bordeaux, when looming appointments at Cheval Blanc and Le Pin prevented any lengthy discussion, is another. At the Renaissance des Appellations tasting in February 2009 I had a similar encounter, where any detailed discussion of the wines on show was prevented by the thronging mass of eager French tasters. Fortunately, the ensuing three days at the Salon provided a good opportunity to revisit these wines and others in a more leisurely fashion, and hopefully gain a slightly better grasp of the Chidaine style.

François Chidaine (pictured right) started out working exclusively in the Montlouis appellation, Vouvray's less prestigious sibling which sits on the opposite bank of the Loire. Unlike some of his peers who I have profiled, such as Jacky Blot, Chidaine was born into a vigneron's family, his father Yves having several hectares of vines in Husseau, a small Touraine village. When he started out in 1989 he worked alongside his father, although on separate plots of vines which totalled only 4.5 hectares, and with the passage of time it would appear that François has eclipsed the efforts of his forebear. He has achieved this using natural methods in the vineyards, which were initially certified organic (although this fact was not publicised) and have since 2003 been certified biodynamic (Biodyvin certification, hence my brief encounter at Fonroque), having begun the process of conversion in 1999. This was the same year that François opened La Cave Insolite in Montlouis-sur-Loire with his wife Manuela. Since then he has continued to expand his domaine, including the purchase of some vineyards across the river in Vouvray.

As a consequence of this expansion the Chidaine domaine, which he runs in conjunction with his cousin Nicolas-Martin, covers at least 33 hectares. About two-thirds of these vines are in Montlouis, and as already mentioned there are several plots in the Vouvray appellation, amounting to something like 10 hectares in total, this accounting for the remaining one-third.

Chidaine in Montlouis

Dealing with the Montlouis vineyards first, here there are vines in Clos de Breuil, Le Volagray and Les Landes; these all have flinty terroir, a soil-type known locally as les perruches. Nearby are Clos Renard and Les Epinais, two plots where the flint is mixed with clay and limestone, the local aubuis soil. Finally, in Les Bournais and Clos Habert, there are limestone terroirs sometimes known as bournais hence the name of the first of these two sites. Although these differing terroirs naturally have the capability to yield wines of differing styles and sweetness depending on the vintage, the Clos du Breuil is always vinified to dryness and thus bottled as a sec, and it might thus be considered the linchpin of the Chidaine portfolio. The fruit of Clos Habert, a site blessed with 60-year-old vines, are harvested in up to four tries and then fermented to yield a demi-sec. As for Les Bournais, the wine here could be fermented to dryness - as in 2007 - or it may yield a much sweeter wine, as in 2005, when there was 47 g/l of residual sugar in the finished cuvée.

In addition there are non-site specific cuvées, including Les Tuffeaux, a blend of fruit from across all terroirs, which usually ends up as a vin tendre, which in terms of residual sugar sits between a sec and demi-sec. Then there is a moelleux, obviously produced only in favourable vintages, which is formed from the fruit of old vines - some as much as 90 years-old - in Clos Renard and Les Epinais. In less than favourable vintages the product of these venerable vines goes into either Les Tuffeaux, or under another label, Les Choisilles. In truly exalted vintages there is also a sélection de grains nobles called Les Lys, a moelleux made only from nobly rotten fruit. There is also a Brut Méthode Traditionelle made with the fruit from young vines; picked ripe, this is a wine bottled without dosage, the secondary fermentation within bottle utilising only the natural residual sugar.

Chidaine in Vouvray

The story of Chidaine and his foothold in Vouvray is one that I have touched on before in my profile of the famed Poniatowski domaine. A descendent of the Polish royal family, Philippe Poniatowski had been tending his Vouvray domaine, including the Clos Baudoin, perhaps one of the greatest sites of the whole appellation, for decades. With his advancing age and no heir, he began to look for a buyer for the estate shortly after the turn of the century, and he soon entered negotiations with the owner of a local bottling company. When Chidaine got wind of this it wasn't long - it was in 2002 - before he and Poniatowski had struck a deal which meant that the Polish prince held onto his land, whilst Chidaine would tend the vines and make the wines. This arrangement would last for five years, with Chidaine given the option to buy at the end of the contract. As if to cement the deal, Chidaine's cousin Nicolas-Martin, himself a young winemaker who was working with François Barmes in Alsace, took up residence at the cottage within the Clos Baudoin. Five years later, as 2006 drew to a close, Chidaine finally took full ownership of the domaine. His time in charge had been well spent; the vineyards - particularly the famed Clos Baudoin - were far from immaculate on his arrival, and he has been working to return them to a state of health, and match the biodynamic status of his Montlouis vines.

Although Montlouis looks across at Vouvray from the other bank of the Loire, many have noted that this is the first time in recorded history that such an arrangement - a man of Montlouis owning vineyards in Vouvray - has been in existence. Vouvray and Montlouis may be physically separated by nothing more than a river, but politically and socially these two communes are worlds apart. I would like to point those people, however, towards Jacky Blot, who has been tending vines in both appellations for years. Blot, however, was not a native of Montlouis, whereas Chidaine was; that is the difference. Besides, it's also a really good story, one that illustrates the small-town politics of La France Profonde quite nicely, and so perhaps we shouldn't pick apart the detail too much!

The result is the addition of several Vouvray cuvées to the Chidaine portfolio, starting with the most obvious, the Clos Baudoin. A 3-hectare site populated with 70-year-old vines (trained in a gobelet fashion), this was Poniatowski's and now Chidaine's greatest site, and perhaps - like Huet's Clos du Bourg - one of the candidates for grand cru status in Vouvray, should such a classification ever be brought into existence. The soils here are clay and chalk, with deeper tuffeau. Then comes Les Argilles, sourced from 40-year-old vines and Le Bouchet, a moelleux from 50-year-old vines and - despite Chidaine's domaine being 90% committed to still wines - there is also a pétillant Vouvray produced.

François Chidaine: Vines & Philosophy

Chidaine's vines tend to be trained low, hugging the warmth of the ground. They are largely between 40 and 80 years old, and are all Chenin Blanc, naturally. Harvest is by hand usually commencing in mid-October, and yields are typically 35 hl/ha across the domaine, varying according to the vintage; 2003, for example, produced a considerably lower figure. As indicated above they are carded for along strictly biodynamic lines. In the cellars, the Chidaine fruit is first pressed using pneumatic equipment, before transfer to 620-litre demi-muids (occasionally smaller barrels may be used) for vinification, using only indigenous yeasts. Here the wines undergo alcoholic fermentation, and malolactic fermentation is not encouraged. They then remain here for typically 12 months of élevage on the lees before bottling, usually as per the cuvées described above.

That Chidaine has resolutely converted the majority of his domaine to biodynamic viticulture, without one beat of the biodynamic drum in public - his labels carry no mention of the domaine's status or certification - should say something about the character of the man. Whenever I spot him he looks resolute, serious and thoughtful and his methods are exacting, precise, perhaps even demanding. His wines I think reflect that, showing a precise, defined linearity that exceeds my expectations for Montlouis (as do the wines of Jacky Blot). In Vouvray, however, a judgement of the wines is perhaps best served by reflecting on those from the Poniatowski era.

The transition of ownership from Poniatowski to Chidaine was notable in the UK as the market was swamped with bottles of Poniatowski's wines. The Prince had maintained huge stocks of some of his wines, not just moelleux from great vintages, but aged sec cuvées, and sparklers too, and the time had come to sell these off. Even if we are to overlook the standard of viticulture and winemaking during the Poniatowski era, both of which are certainly open to question, his ability to market and sell the wines - obviously an essential part of any vineyard business model - was lacking. The wines that suddenly appeared included moelleux cuvées from 1989 and 1990, two great vintages for Vouvray, with more than 15 years bottle age, and naturally the combination of maturity and a good price meant that many drinkers snapped them up, including me. I took not only the more ageworthy sweeter wines but also dry wines from lesser vintages that should have sold though a long time ago, such as 1984. No-one can accuse me of being unwilling to experiment!

These wines will give much pleasure, and for my part will make useful and inexpensive additions to twenty-year-on tastings, but I think it is now essential that we view these wines in the light of those now emanating from these vineyards under the direction of François Chidaine. Even in a vintage like 2007, not a strong season which yielded largely sec cuvées, the Chidaine wines show a purity and freshness which is admirable. This is the Chidaine style, and it can be traced back though the vinification to the care that he exacts in the vineyard. His wines serve to show up those of the Poniatowski era for the under-performers that they are, wines that were undoubtedly regal but which lacked precision, definition and sometimes even a sense of cleanliness. Draw no conclusions about the wines from that era until you have tasted those of Chidaine, would be my advice. He is bringing this domaine, and the famed Clos Baudoin, back to life. (18/8/09)

Contact details:
Address: 5, Grande-Rue, 37270 Montlouis-sur-Loire
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 45 19 14
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 45 19 08
Internet: www.francois-chidaine.com

François Chidaine - Tasting Notes

Organising such an array of tasting notes, with so many different wines, can be difficult. I order these notes by appellation as follows; first the entry-level wines from Touraine, then Montlouis and Vouvray last. Some wines have multiple tasting notes; the most recent are always listed first. Click to locate stockists.

Montlouis

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos du Breuil 2010: The wine from Clos du Breuil is always vinified dry. This vintage has youthful apples and pears on the nose, light and lifted, with a perfumed pink-fleshed character. An attractive palate, fresh and rather juicy in style, with good fruit supported by a very attractive punchy style of acidity. Light, still showing some fermentation-related aromas and flavour though. All the same, supple, fresh and cleansing. Good. From a 2011 update. 16.5-17.5/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Choisilles 2010: This cuvée usually includes fruit from Clos Renard and Les Epinais although these also give fruit to the moelleux cuvée when the vintage is suitable. Sweet still-fermenting apples and pears here, still clearly very youthful. A fine presence on the palate, with a very appealing gentle texture to the wine cut through by a precise, defined, crunchy-mineral acidity. Great minerality here. This could be delicious. From a 2011 update. 17-18/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Bournais 2010: Whether this cuvée is dry or sweet depends on the vintage. Substantial fruit on the nose here, it as still well defined though, and I find the same on the palate which shows substantial fruit quality, and texture too, but with a defined and bright acidity behind it. And there is a lovely mineral spice coming through at the end. Overall this is beautifully appealing and fresh. Again, huge potential here. From a 2011 update. 17-18/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos Habert Demi-Sec 2010: The soils here are limestone and clay, the vines 60-years old, and the wine usually a demi-sec. Fine, perfumed, bright and rather feminine apples and stone fruits on the nose for a start. The palate is lovely, fleshy and rich, with moderate acidity and a light minerality. An attractive style but the structural components are only just adequate for the residual sugar at present. It has a seductive character though. From a 2011 update. 16.5-17.5/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Tuffeaux 2010: This is a non-site specific cuvée, taking fruit from across all sites, usually gently sec tendre to demi-sec or thereabouts. A very polished, white stone feel to the nose here, with yellow-gold fruits, star fruit and white grapes rubbed over the top. A deliciously fleshy style on the palate, full and rich, but again the acidity is quite well hidden here although the mineral component does have a very fine, needle-like quality to it. Fresh, balanced, some light grip in the finish. Pretty and very appropriate for the vintage which I think is better suited to the sec style. Great mineral finish though. From a 2011 update. 16.5-17.5/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Moelleux 2010: Principally sourced from Clos Renard and Les Epinais, made when the vintage favours a moelleux cuvée. This embryonic wine has some bright yellow-gold fruit on the nose. It has a soft, sweet and golden character, with a very fine seam of minerality running through the very core of the wine, around a very appealing and polished layer of sweet crystalline fruit. This is much more convincing than the equivalent demi-sec, with a finer fruit purity and lovely acidity. A great, very convincing style, with vigorous acidity and minerals. From a 2011 update. 17.5-18.5/20 (January 2011)

Vouvray

François Chidaine Vouvray Les Argiles 2010: This is as always an assemblage of several parcels, the vines aged 40 years on average. Nose has a fresh, open, juicy yellow plum style of fruit. Wow - on the palate this is just beautiful, showing amazing acidity and freshness here, with great minerality and style to it. It has a powerfully broad, mouth-tingling substance. Just wonderful character here, but this is a very early taste in this wine's life; but if it keeps this vigour this will be a fabulous wine. From a 2011 update. 17-18/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Vouvray Le Bouchet 2010: This cuvée is generally sweet, demi-sec or moelleux, and is sourced from 50-year old vines on clay-limestone terroirs. A very distinct style on the nose here, showing strong fruit elements, with a slightly dried-fruit character. A lovely presence on the palate though, supple and polished, with the same gentle level of acids and minerals shown by the preceding demi-sec cuvées. Perhaps just a little more convincing here though. Yes, through the midpalate there is a greater lift and definition to it. If this is maintained this will be lovely. From a 2011 update. 17-18/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Vouvray Moelleux 2010: An assemblage from several sites, first produced in 2009; François says it is not yet named - a statement that clearly places it alongside Les Lys in the portfolio, a Vouvray equivalent. A fine density to the fruit here, concentrated and golden, very polished and pure. A solid style. This concentration comes through on the palate which shows a heady, mellifluous style. The acidity at first seems a little muted but in the midpalate it does come through nicely, although perhaps not the level of the Montlouis Moelleux tasted alongside. An attractive polished style, rich and yet elegant and well defined, just not with the tingling and exciting backbone that I would really like to see. From a 2011 update. 16.5-17.5/20 (January 2011)

Touraine

François Chidaine Touraine Sauvignon 2009: Very fresh but gentle fruit on the nose here, notes of yellow plum, certainly an appealingly ripe style which is welcome. A good character, fresh, with lots of bite. A nice zip and depth on the finish, quite sappy and structured in terms of style. Overall, good, especially when one considers the appellation and its peers. From a 2010 update. 15/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Touraine Rosé 2009: This is a blend of Gamay, Grolleau and Pinot Noir, comprising one-third of each. A very fine, pale hue in the glass, and fresh raspberry fruit on the nose. Bright, quite characterful and well defined. Stony rather than creamy, a good dry style, with a little flesh but no overt signs of unwelcome residual sugar. A good effort. From a 2010 update. 15/20 (February 2010)

Montlouis

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos du Breuil 2009: This cuvée is always vinified until dry; in this vintage it has 2 g/l residual sugar. Attractive and polished on the nose, with a soapy and minerally edge. Full of lemon zest, and very stylish and polished on the palate, with a sappy and tangible substance. Good grip and acidity coming through here, so there is still plenty of bite and structure to it, but it is the finely polished texture I find here that really draws me to this wine. Released in November 2010. From a 2011 update. 17/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Bournais 2009: Whether this cuvée is dry or sweet depends on the vintage. The vines are 15 years old, and François described the terroir here as more like Vouvray, without flint. In 2009 it shows a wonderful minerality on the nose, all crumbly volcanic rocks; this is very expressive. It has a lovely minerality here, a softer texture than 2008 and 2007, but still with a wonderfully vibrant acidity and minerality. This is definitely one of the better sec cuvées from François Chidaine in this vintage. It has an almost soapy character, but I still really like it. This should be great. From a 2011 update. 18/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Bournais Franc de Pied 2009: The same vineyard, but from a small selection of ungrafted vines which were first bottled as an independent cuvée in 2007. That vintage there were about 500 bottles, there are 800 in 2009. It became apparent as they planted the vines that this was an old parcel, as they found old vine roots in the soil, although none of the locals remember it being cultivated. The soils are clay with thin limestone. There are 2.5 hectares planted, with potential for 4 hectares in total. This has a lovely style, quite ethereal and lifted, on the palate very polished and substantial, but still with a fine acidity coming through. There is no analysis for residual sugar at present. The quality is very close, but this does seem to have a touch more substance and grip than the grafted version. An impressive wine. From a 2011 update. 18/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Choisilles 2009: Whether this cuvée is dry or sweet depends on the vintage. Here it is certainly less expressive than Les Bournais (either cuvée!), but still very appealing, with a clean soap-stone minerality, and this very clean style comes through on the palate which is very defined and linear, with clean edges. Note that there is a lot of substance and texture within here, though, followed by piles of grip at the finish. This is lovely. From a 2011 update. 18/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos Habert Demi-Sec 2009: The soils here are limestone and clay, the vines 60-years old, and the wine usually a demi-sec, with 12 g/l residual sugar in 2009. It has a beautifully perfumed character on the nose, lightly honeyed fruit, ethereal with nuances of acacia and beeswax. It is lifted and light-footed nevertheless. Very supple and polished on the palate, with a good grip at its core, showing lots of defining and freshening acidity, much-needed as this is a richer style than the fabulous 2008. Very attractive and direct with lovely fresh structure underneath. An impressive, cleansing finish and structure here too. From a 2011 update. 17.5/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Tuffeaux 2009: This is a non-site specific cuvée, taking fruit from across all sites, usually gently sec tendre to demi-sec or thereabouts, in the 2009 vintage it is firmly demi-sec with 17 g/l residual sugar. The nose reflects the terroir here, although note some fruit comes from more flinty soils! It has a very direct and straight-up style on the nose, but on the palate it surprises with a very fleshy, polished, honeyed, yellow plum character. Beautifully broad and seductive on the palate, with a very correct but elegant, well covered structure behind it all. This is really impressive and suggestive of a slightly higher residual than that written above. Beautifully balanced though. Excellent. From a 2011 update. 18/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Moelleux 2009: A blend of all the Montlouis vineyards, made when the vintage suits it. In this vintage the residual sugar comes in at 40 g/l. Not so expressive on the nose, with just a very light suggestion of honeyed fruit. The palate is very mellifluous, honeyed and flattering, with a sweet honeyed-crystalline character to the fruit, before the crunchy minerality cuts though it on the midpalate. Very appealing but this needs time to develop. Fine acid definition in the finish and an embryonic botrytis character suggests there will be wonderful development here. This should be very fine. From a 2011 update. 17.5/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Lys 2009: This is also a multi-site assemblage, made only in selected vintages - the last outing for this cuvée was in 2003. The residual sugar is 105 g/l. There are 1000 bottles. It has a deep, concentrated, golden style of fruit here, yet it remains light and ethereal. Again it does not seem so expressive. What the palate shows is a very broad depth of sweet and honeyed fruit, with a very broad, very concentrated style, certainly complex, with a good depth of structure from the botrytis. The acidity is there but this takes a back seat, although I think given time the crystalline structure of the fruit and the tangible grip will provide the necessary backbone. Impressive, but I don't find it to be streets ahead of the moelleux. From a 2011 update. 18/20 (January 2011)

Vouvray

François Chidaine Vouvray Les Argiles 2009: An assemblage of several parcels, the vines having an average age of 40 years. Residual sugar 5 g/l in this vintage, which was bottled earlier than usual in August 2010 and released in November the same year after the low-volume 2008 sold out. It has rather a honeyed, gently expressive style on the nose, with perfumed, polished and limestoney fruit. A lovely supple style on the palate, dry and with lovely balancing acidity. Supple in terms of fruit and texture and yet with a lovely acid and mineral core coming up at the finish. From a 2011 update. 17/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Vouvray Clos Baudoin 2009: A south-facing site, 3 hectares in size, with clay over limestone or tuffeau as it is known locally. This has a very restrained style, more of a stony feel to the nose, with little fruit expression. Certainly a very reserved character. Very dry and polished on entry, showing a lot of structure underneath here, and a grippy and powerful composition. Light fruit character like the nose, more of a liquid stone feel to it, very reserved but with a super substance to it, this is one for the cellar. Released in November 2010. From a 2011 update. 17.5/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Vouvray Le Bouchet 2009: This cuvée is generally sweet, demi-sec or moelleux, and is sourced from 50-year old vines on clay-limestone terroirs; in 2009 it has 27 g/l residual sugar. Creamed yellow fruit on the nose, definitely softer and more seductive on first impression than some other 2009s. But there is a delightful minerality here too, soft and lightly volcanic in its feel. The palate matches this, showing a very sweet and honeyed character, with beautiful depth and breadth to it, but also with a very fine core of laser-like acidity and lots of mineral grip. The finish has a great, tangible substance. Superb wine. From a 2011 update. 18+/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Vouvray Moelleux 2009: This is an assemblage from several sites, and this is its first vintage; François says it is not yet named - a statement that would seem to place it alongside Les Lys. The residual sugar of 135 g/l would seem to support this conclusion. There are just 500 bottles. Rather a feminine, perfumed minerality on the nose, although like the Montlouis wines not that expressive. Has some golden fruit character alongside this, But on the palate a very broad style, honeyed, with appealing minerality, balanced acidity, with a very defined finish and good length. Very good evolving golden-crystalline elements. From a 2011 update. 17.5+/20 (January 2011)

Montlouis

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos du Breuil 2008: This cuvée is always vinified until dry. Flinty soils, residual sugar 5 g/l. A fresh and open nose here, a good crisp style of fruit, showing an appealing purity. Very supple in terms of style, lovely acidic core, linear with straight-edged flavours. Classically styled, perhaps a touch more so than the 2007. From a 2010 update. 16-17+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Choisilles 2008: This cuvée usually includes fruit from Clos Renard and Les Epinais when the vintage does not favour the production of a moelleux cuvée. The residual sugar is 6 g/l. A perfumed and lightly mineral style on the nose, with a chalky-lemony minerality. Good substance here, a little more flesh on the palate than the 2007. Good structure, very sappy and dry in the middle despite that fleshy start, with lots of acidity and minerality. Again quite a firmly structured, austere and challenging presence on the palate, with a firm stony finish. Very good. From a 2011 update. 17/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Choisilles 2008: This cuvée usually includes fruit from Clos Renard and Les Epinais when the vintage does not favour the production of a moelleux cuvée. A minerally nose here, otherwise it comes across as very restrained. The palate shows a remarkable presence of flesh, a fine acidity, with lots of polished substance. Gentle, elegant character here, although it yields to a tighter grip towards the end of the palate. Could be lovely. From a 2010 update. 16-17+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Bournais 2008: Whether this cuvée is dry or sweet depends on the vintage; as in 2007 it is towards the drier end although I do sense a little residual sugar here I think - although it is revealed to be just 3 g/l! Very open and expressive on the nose, with light stony fruit, stylish and seemingly more composed than some of the preceding wines. The palate seems to confirm this as there is a greater cushion of texture here to sit around the acidity and minerality. This is certainly my favourite of the four secs first poured. From a 2011 update. 17.5/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Bournais 2008: Whether this cuvée is dry or sweet depends on the vintage; as in 2007 it is towards the drier end although I do sense a little residual sugar here I think. Smoky fruit on the nose, with open and expressive character. A very fine palate, beautifully delineated texture, this is a wine that just glides across the mouth, displaying an excellent composition of fruit and polish but also a powerful structure and a keen acidic core. Although this is lovely now, the grip that flanks the finish, and also the laser-like acidity here, will keep this healthy for years and years. From a 2010 update. 17.5-18+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Bournais Franc de Pied 2008: The same vineyard, but from a small selection of ungrafted vines. This seems just that little bit brighter and more open than the grafted cuvée. It has an appealing substance, very stylish and polished, still with a stony substance to it but with character and a good sense of balance. In the finish there is a good structured polish to it. A very dry character again though. This cuvée just has the edge I think but it is very close - I certainly wouldn't like to separate them tasted blind! From a 2011 update. 17.5/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Bournais Franc de Pied 2008: The same vineyard, but from a small selection of ungrafted vines. Whereas I often find minor differences between matching cuvées here the distinctions in style are striking; this is a very different wine to that made from vines on American rootstock. The nose is elegant, with notes of flowers and white stone. This same beauty comes through on the palate, with even greater finesse, around a surging core of minerals and stone. Broad, concentrated, with amazing grip and great length. A real treat to taste. From a 2010 update. 17.5-18.5+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos Habert Demi-Sec 2008: This has a fine, polished, lemon-gold hue, and a fabulous nose, pure and yet concentrated. The fruit is expansive and yet firm, composed, taut, with a liquid-stone, minerally feel to it, but also exotic, with a suggestion of candied pineapple. And alongside that there are flower petals, redolent of acacia dusted with honey. But it is the purity and brightness that really registers with me. The palate has all the breadth and textured sweetness that I recall from my previous tastings, but there is also substance running through this wine, a barley-water, icing sugar solidity to its core, which raises the wine above the average demi-sec. There is a fine sappy-sour seam of acidity which adds a firm backbone alongside the bitter twist of citrus pith, and this really shines through at the finish. It is long and gently polished by its residual sugar, but more prominent are those gloriously pithy, lightly phenolic elements which bring the wine a tinge of bitterness, an extra dimension alongside the other components. As I have noted from my previous tastings, this is a fabulous wine. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 18.5/20 (May 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos Habert Demi-Sec 2008: The soils here are limestone and clay, situated next to Clos du Breuil, the vines 50 to 70-years old, and the wine usually a demi-sec, with 15.5 g/l residual sugar here. It is difficult to taste this and be objective; I know I have always rated it very highly, and I have half a case in the cellar. It has a lovely honeyed style, showing great purity and also sweetness and elegance. The palate is perfectly balanced, sweet and honeyed, yet complex and minerally, but with a dried finish, elegant and fresh. What can I say? This remains as wonderful as it always has been. From a 2011 update. 18.5/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos Habert Demi-Sec 2008: The soils here are limestone and clay, the vines 60-years old, and the wine usually a demi-sec, with 15.5 g/l residual sugar here. The nose in this vintage is precise, with nuances of citrus fruits, cream and vanilla flowers. A divinely textured palate follows on, so vigorous and energetic, creamy and yet defined. This is astonishing wine, so perfectly composed I struggle to find an adequate description. I am sure this will keep well in the cellar, but I don't think I could resist drinking it now for the sheer joy it brings. From a 2010 update. 18-19+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Tuffeaux 2008: This is a non-site specific cuvée, taking fruit from across all sites, usually gently sec tendre to demi-sec or thereabouts, in this vintage it is firmly demi-sec at 19 g/l residual sugar. A lovely purity here, on the nose a very mineral and expressive style, although it is subtle and approachable, and on the palate it has a very fine expression. Finely balanced, with great minerality too. Supple, poised and defined though. Somewhat tighter and more reserved than the Clos Habert. This is very good indeed. From a 2011 update. 18/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Tuffeaux 2008: This is a non-site specific cuvée, taking fruit from across all sites, usually gently sec tendre to demi-sec or thereabouts, in this vintage firmly demi-sec at 19 g/l residual sugar. White fruits and flowers on the nose, typical young Chenin Blanc, presented in an ethereal fashion. The wines itself is a model of restraint on the palate compared with the evocative Clos Habert, its fine core of acidity building firmly in the midpalate giving it a great vigour, but without so much exuberant aroma. Good purity though, lovely citrus and cream and mineral elements on the palate, a vigorous finish, and great length. This is a wine of beauty. From a 2010 update. 17.5-18.5+/20 (February 2010)

Vouvray

François Chidaine Vouvray Les Argiles 2008: An assemblage of several parcels, the vines having an average age of 40 years. Residual sugar 6 g/l. This wine has a very linear nose, with clean and defined fruit. It has an amazingly silky texture for the level of sugar, cut through by plenty of clean acidity at the core. The palate carries a wave of gently polished stony white fruit, exhibiting beautiful purity and style as it does so. A very good wine, with a long finish too. From a 2010 update. 16-17+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Vouvray Clos Baudoin 2008: A south-facing site, 3 hectares in size, with clay over limestone or tuffeau as it is known locally. Very restrained white fruit on the nose here, a fine structure, handsomely composed. It presents a structure resembling a polished shell, inside a densely coiled character which is not ready to be revealed, all around it a seam of acidity. Intense, grippy, huge substance but well polished, this is a wine of great potential which needs to be left well alone in the cellar for a few years. From a 2010 update. 17-18+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Vouvray Le Bouchet 2008: This cuvée is generally sweet, demi-sec or moelleux, and is sourced from 50-year old vines on clay-limestone terroirs.  In this vintage it has 19 g/l residual sugar. Very fresh and open in terms of style, with a touch of aniseed and liquorice here, also fennel maybe. It has a lovely style, soft and supple, polished off with oak, although there is a fine substance and depth to it as well. There are polished and golden-honey fruits, giving the wine a very supple style, delicious and rather caressing. Underneath a fine core of acid. Impressive. From a 2011 update. 18/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Vouvray Le Bouchet 2008: This cuvée is generally sweet, demi-sec or moelleux, and is sourced from 50-year old vines on clay-limestone terroirs. A fresh and ethereal character on the nose, citrus and cream, and a much firmer style than the two Montlouis demi-secs in this vintage. Notes of stone, lightly sprinkled with flower petals. Firm, beautifully textured, vibrant and tingly. A vigorous wine with wonderful character and great potential. From a 2010 update. 17-18+/20 (February 2010)

Montlouis

François Chidaine Montlouis Brut Méthode Traditionelle 2007: This is a non-dosé cuvée. A fine minerality on the nose, intense, with pungent stony fruit. On the palate the depth of fruit isn't quite what I expected considering the quality on the nose, nevertheless it has a great structure, some creamy minerality and a sappy acid style. Firm, linear, dry and well composed. From a 2010 update. 16/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos du Breuil 2007: The vines range from 30 to 90 years of age here. Yield 35 hl/ha, residual sugar less than 1 g/l. This cuvée is always vinified until dry. Flinty soils. An appealing nose here, polished yellow-golden fruits, pure and stony-subtle rather than overtly expressive. A gentle polish, a nice linear character, with a gentle flesh. Very mineral, appealingly styled, just moderate concentration. An admirable and eminently approachable wine. From a 2010 update. 16.5/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos du Breuil 2007: The nose here is bright and lifted, showing some lovely pear fruit, and still a good vein of minerals too. The palate shows the same firm structure and minerality as it has done previously, nicely defined, with good substance. Lots of good grip in the midpalate, bright, dry and delineated, with a sappy-grippy finish. Really good potential here. 16.5-17+/20 (February 2009)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos du Breuil 2007: The terroir here is clay and flint. This has a really appealing nose, showing complex fruit. The palate is weighty and complex, and certainly has substance. There is an intense minerality which dominates the flavour profile, and a great acid structure beneath it. I find this to be really appealing. 16.5-17+/20 (April 2008)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos Habert 2007: This has 12 g/l residual sugar. A really lovely nose here, full of white pepper and pears, and ripe stone fruit. There is a fine palate to follow, soft, gentle and minerally; it doesn't have the grip of the preceding wines, but there is a fine and broad substance beneath. Full bodied and substantial, with a slightly bitter finish, this is really very good indeed. 17-17.5+/20 (February 2009)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Choisilles 2007: This cuvée usually includes fruit from Clos Renard and Les Epinais when the vintage does not favour the production of a moelleux. The vines are 30 to 90 years of age. Here I'm told the residual sugar is 3 g/l although I note that contradicts information provided last year. It is very expressive on the nose, with a good minerality to it, chalky-stony with a good lemony bite. There is that light honeyed-acacia note coming in here too. Despite this it is very firm and structured on the palate, with lots of grip and acid giving it a very certain bite, very dry, with lots of stony fruit with tinges of plum and lemon zest. Lots of minerality too. This is good, although perhaps just a little on the austere side. From a 2011 update. 17/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Choisilles 2007: This cuvée usually includes fruit from Clos Renard and Les Epinais when the vintage does not favour the production of a moelleux. The vines are 30 to 90 years of age. This has only 5.1 g/l residual sugar, a fact I would never have guessed from my tasting of the wine, which has such toothsome panache. Polished, sweetly-ripe fruit here, with a fine, needle-like core of minerals within. A finely composed character, fleshy, a slightly richer style than the preceding wines, with a lovely sheen to it. Framed, defined and delicious, with bright fruit and lively minerality, and most striking of all a beautiful texture. Lovely. From a 2010 update. 17-17.5+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Bournais 2007: A clay-limestone terroir here, hence bournais, a name for this type of stone. This terroir is less common in Chidaine's portfolio than clay-flint. Whether this cuvée is dry or sweet depends on the vintage; it has 4.8 g/l in 2007. Quite a perfumed style on the nose, with a gentle and feminine character to it, and a rather soapstone note as well. Rather a light feel to the palate, lots of acidity here, and a less minerally character than Les Choisilles. Dry, structured, very correct, again challenging in its structure. A big show of lemony substance on the drying, sappy finish. Good but very forthright. From a 2011 update. 17/20 (January 2011) 

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Bournais 2007: A clay-limestone terroir here, hence bournais, a name for this type of stone. Whether this cuvée is dry or sweet depends on the vintage; in this vintage it is firmly towards the drier end. The vines are 60 years old, the yield 37 hl/ha, residual sugar 4.8 g/l. Young vines too, just ten years old. An enticing nose here, a melange of pure vanilla ice cream swirled with citrus fruits. Again, like Les Choisilles, a beautifully rich and polished palate, with a great acid core. Minerally too, delicious midpalate style, tighter at the edges but also grippy at the core. This is splendid, evocative yet elegant wine. Great potential here. From a 2010 update. 17.5+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos Habert Demi-Sec 2007: The soils here are limestone, the vines 60 years old, and the wine usually a demi-sec, in this vintage true to form with residual sugar sitting at 12.1 g/l. The yield is lower than some at 29 hl/ha. The fruit character has evolved into citrus and peach on the nose, a wonderfully vibrant and creamy wine, a swirl of mango and mineral. A gliding, elegant palate, lots of interest here. A very balanced form, the acidity enhancing the finesse and harmony of the wine. This is very supple, restrained, with complex fruits as on the nose, and a good length too. Great wine. From a 2010 update. 17.5-18+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Tuffeaux 2007: This is a non-site specific cuvée, taking fruit from across all sites, usually gently sec tendre to demi-sec or thereabouts. The vines are 30 to 90 years old, the yield 43 hl/ha. In this vintage it is more demi-sec at 14.9 g/l residual sugar. All of a sudden the expression changes here, this wine is certainly more elegant, more polished, perfumed, floral and mineral. It has a lovely presence on the palate, supple and stylish, but still with a very defining minerality over the acidity coming through in the middle. Very appealing, still very long and aggressively structured and mineral though. From a 2011 update. 17/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Tuffeaux 2007: This is a non-site specific cuvée, taking fruit from across all sites, usually gently sec tendre to demi-sec or thereabouts. The vines are 30 to 90 years old, the yield 43 hl/ha. In this vintage it is more demi-sec at 14.9 g/l residual sugar. It actually seems a little tighter than the Clos Habert on the nose, although it is no less interesting in terms of aroma, elements of peach mixed with vanilla. Quite tense on the palate, a finer composition here, plenty of finesse. Perhaps less rounded but still a very polished, well-defined style. Fine. From a 2010 update. 17.5+/20 (February 2010)

Vouvray

François Chidaine Vouvray Les Argiles 2007: An assemblage of several parcels, the yield 31 hl/ha, the vines 40-years old. This cuvée is always vinified until dry, and the residual sugar is 2.8 g/l. A more appealing nose here than the Clos du Breuil, a little touch of honey and some well-framed fruit. More open than my last tasting. Soft and rounder texture on the palate, but still very fresh and stylish. Nicely poised, great firm acidity, and a good minerally character alongside the fruit. Lots of appeal here. From a 2010 update. 17+/20 (February 2010)

François Chidaine Vouvray Les Argilles 2007: This is rather reticent on the nose, especially compared with the Clos du Breuil, with just a little stony aromatic character. The palate shows good form though; it is fairly closed, but there is a lot of substance and texture. A good broad character, with lots of grip in the structure. This has really good, tightly wound promise; more than the Breuil, I think. 16.5-17+/20 (February 2009)

François Chidaine Vouvray Clos Baudoin 2007: The old Poniatowski climat, 70-year old vines, harvested at 28 hl/ha. Residual sugar 2.7 g/l. There is lovely depth and interest here, the aromas of minerals mixed with citrus fruit, but with great depth. Appealing and structured, clean and firm, with fresh acid. Flavours of apples and pears, this has delightful dry style. This is my first taste of wine from this vineyard since Chidaine took control; it has a very distinctive style that sings of the terroir, and is very impressive. 17-17.5+/20 (April 2008)

François Chidaine Vouvray Le Bouchet 2007: This cuvée is generally sweet, demi-sec or moelleux, and is sourced from 50 year-old vines on clay-limestone terroirs. I'm told it has 18 g/l residual sugar, although the figure provided last year was 15.8 g/l. Whichever it is it has a beautiful expression, showing a lightly honeyed character coming in over the minerality of the stone and light fruit freshness. A beautiful style on the palate, softer and more polished, still very stony and correct but here with a greater cushion from the texture, relating to that residual. Very correct and polished, a wine with lovely potential. From a 2011 update. 17.5/20 (January 2011)

François Chidaine Vouvray Le Bouchet 2007: This cuvée is generally sweet, demi-sec or moelleux, and is sourced from 50 year-old vines on clay-limestone terroirs, although in this vintage it has only 15.8 g/l residual sugar. All the same, it has a beautiful honeyed edge, great definition, ripe and yet so fresh. There is sweetness, although offset by a vibrant, laser-like acidity. A beautiful flesh and definition, overall great vigour. Delicious wine, although at the very bottom end of the moelleux scale in terms of impact on the palate. But wine is about more than impact! From a 2010 update. 17.5+/20 (February 2010)

Montlouis

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Choisilles 2006: This has gently honeyed pear fruit on the nose, ripe, expressive and fresh. There is a little residual sugar evident on the palate, but this is nicely countered by plenty of grip and acidity, more the former in fact, and good minerality. A very attractive style overall, showing softness and warmth on the nose which partially translates onto the palate which has good grip and substance. Good potential. 16.5-17+/20 (February 2009)

Vouvray

François Chidaine Vouvray Pétillant Méthode Ancestrale 2004: Wow! This has a really intense minerality on the nose, a rocky pungency swirled with smoky fruit giving this wine an enthralling character. The palate is restrained, showing a very typical light pétillance which does not detract from the wine's admirable qualities. A very dry style with plenty of punch. Lovely. From a 2010 update. 18/20 (February 2010)