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François Chidaine

Over the years, François Chidaine and I seem to have had a series of brief encounters at tastings, or near misses, but never an in-depth meeting. An appointment to meet and taste at his shop La Cave Insolite, in Montlouis, which I had to call off, is one example. A chance encounter at a Biodyvin tasting at Chateau Fonroque, in Bordeaux, when looming appointments at Cheval Blanc and Le Pin prevented any lengthy discussion, is another. At the Renaissance des Appellations tasting in February 2009 I had a similar encounter, where any detailed discussion of the wines on show was prevented by the thronging mass of eager French tasters. Fortunately, the ensuing three days at the Salon provided a good opportunity to revisit these wines and others in a more leisurely fashion, and hopefully gain a slightly better grasp of the Chidaine style.

François Chidaine started out working exclusively in the Montlouis appellation, Vouvray's less prestigious sibling which sits on the opposite bank of the Loire. Unlike some of his peers who I have profiled, such as Jacky Blot, Chidaine was born into a vigneron's family, his father Yves having several hectares of vines in Husseau, a small Touraine village. When he started out in 1989 he worked alongside his father, although on separate plots of vines which totalled only 4.5 hectares, and with the passage of time it would appear that François has eclipsed the efforts of his forebear. He has achieved this using natural methods in the vineyards, which were initially certified organic (although this fact was not publicised) and have since 2003 been certified biodynamic (Biodyvin certification, hence my brief encounter at Fonroque), having begun the process of conversion in 1999. This was the same year that François opened La Cave Insolite in Montlouis-sur-Loire with his wife Manuela. Since then he has continued to expand his domaine, including the purchase of some vineyards across the river in Vouvray.

As a consequence of this expansion the Chidaine domaine, which he runs in conjunction with his cousin Nicolas-Martin, covers at least 33 hectares. About two-thirds of these vines are in Montlouis, and as already mentioned there are several plots in the Vouvray appellation, amounting to something like 10 hectares in total, this accounting for the remaining one-third.

Chidaine in Montlouis

Dealing with the Montlouis vineyards first, here there are vines in Clos de Breuil, Clos Habert, Le Volagray and Les Landes; these all have flinty terroir, a soil-type known locally as les perruches. Nearby are Clos Renard and Les Epinais, two plots where the flint is mixed with clay and limestone, the local aubuis soil. Finally, in Les Bournais, there is a limestone terroir known as bournais hence the name of the clos in question. Although these differing terroirs naturally have the capability to yield wines of differing styles and sweetness depending on the vintage, the Clos du Breuil is always vinified to dryness and thus bottled as a sec, and it might thus be considered the linchpin of the Chidaine portfolio. The fruit of Clos Habert, a site blessed with 60-year-old vines, are harvested in up to four tries and then fermented to yield a demi-sec. As for Les Bournais, the wine here could be fermented to dryness - as in 2007 - or it may yield a much sweeter wine, as in 2005, when there was 47 g/l of residual sugar in the finished cuvée.

In addition there are non-site specific cuvées, including Les Tuffeaux, a blend of fruit from across all terroirs, which usually ends up as a vin tendre, which in terms of residual sugar sits between a sec and demi-sec. Then there is a moelleux, obviously produced only in favourable vintages, which is formed from the fruit of old vines - some as much as 90 years-old - in Clos Renard and Les Epinais. In less than favourable vintages the product of these venerable vines goes into either Les Tuffeaux, or under another label, Les Choisilles. In truly exalted vintages there is also a sélection de grains nobles called Les Lys, a moelleux made only from nobly rotten fruit. There is also a Brut Méthode Traditionelle made with the fruit from young vines; picked ripe, this is a wine bottled without dosage, the secondary fermentation within bottle utilising only the natural residual sugar.

Chidaine in Vouvray

The story of Chidaine and his foothold in Vouvray is one that I have touched on before in my profile of the famed Poniatowski domaine. A descendent of the Polish royal family, Philippe Poniatowski had been tending his Vouvray domaine, including the Clos Baudoin, perhaps one of the greatest sites of the whole appellation, for decades. With his advancing age and no heir, he began to look for a buyer for the estate shortly after the turn of the century, and he soon entered negotiations with the owner of a local bottling company. When Chidaine got wind of this it wasn't long - it was in 2002 - before he and Poniatowski had struck a deal which meant that the Polish prince held onto his land, whilst Chidaine would tend the vines and make the wines. This arrangement would last for five years, with Chidaine given the option to buy at the end of the contract. As if to cement the deal, Chidaine's cousin Nicolas-Martin, himself a young winemaker who was working with François Barmes in Alsace, took up residence at the cottage within the Clos Baudoin. Five years later, as 2006 drew to a close, Chidaine finally took full ownership of the domaine. His time in charge had been well spent; the vineyards - particularly the famed Clos Baudoin - were far from immaculate on his arrival, and he has been working to return them to a state of health, and match the biodynamic status of his Montlouis vines.

Although Montlouis looks across at Vouvray from the other bank of the Loire, many have noted that this is the first time in recorded history that such an arrangement - a man of Montlouis owning vineyards in Vouvray - has been in existence. Vouvray and Montlouis may be physically separated by nothing more than a river, but politically and socially these two communes are worlds apart. I would like to point those people, however, towards Jacky Blot, who has been tending vines in both appellations for years. Blot, however, was not a native of Montlouis, whereas Chidaine was; that is the difference. Besides, it's also a really good story, one that illustrates the small-town politics of La France Profonde quite nicely, and so perhaps we shouldn't pick apart the detail too much!

The result is the addition of several Vouvray cuvées to the Chidaine portfolio, starting with the most obvious, the Clos Baudoin. A 3-hectare site populated with 70-year-old vines (trained in a gobelet fashion), this was Poniatowski's and now Chidaine's greatest site, and perhaps - like Huet's Clos du Bourg - one of the candidates for grand cru status in Vouvray, should such a classification ever be brought into existence. The soils here are clay and chalk, with deeper tuffeau. Then comes Les Argilles, sourced from 40-year-old vines and Le Bouchet, a moelleux from 50-year-old vines and - despite Chidaine's domaine being 90% committed to still wines - there is also a pétillant Vouvray produced.

François Chidaine: Vines & Philosophy

Chidaine's vines tend to be trained low, hugging the warmth of the ground. They are largely between 40 and 80 years old, and are all Chenin Blanc, naturally. Harvest is by hand usually commencing in mid-October, and yields are typically 35 hl/ha across the domaine, varying according to the vintage; 2003, for example, produced a considerably lower figure. As indicated above they are carded for along strictly biodynamic lines. In the cellars, the Chidaine fruit is first pressed using pneumatic equipment, before transfer to 620-litre demi-muids (occasionally smaller barrels may be used) for vinification, using only indigenous yeasts. Here the wines undergo alcoholic fermentation, and malolactic fermentation is not encouraged. They then remain here for typically 12 months of élevage on the lees before bottling, usually as per the cuvées described above.

That Chidaine has resolutely converted the majority of his domaine to biodynamic viticulture, without one beat of the biodynamic drum in public - his labels carry no mention of the domaine's status or certification - should say something about the character of the man. Whenever I spot him he looks resolute, serious and thoughtful and his methods are exacting, precise, perhaps even demanding. His wines I think reflect that, showing a precise, defined linearity that exceeds my expectations for Montlouis (as do the wines of Jacky Blot). In Vouvray, however, a judgement of the wines is perhaps best served by reflecting on those from the Poniatowski era.

The transition of ownership from Poniatowski to Chidaine was notable in the UK as the market was swamped with bottles of Poniatowski's wines. The Prince had maintained huge stocks of some of his wines, not just moelleux from great vintages, but aged sec cuvées, and sparklers too, and the time had come to sell these off. Even if we are to overlook the standard of viticulture and winemaking during the Poniatowski era, both of which are certainly open to question, his ability to market and sell the wines - obviously an essential part of any vineyard business model - was lacking. The wines that suddenly appeared included moelleux cuvées from 1989 and 1990, two great vintages for Vouvray, with more than 15 years bottle age, and naturally the combination of maturity and a good price meant that many drinkers snapped them up, including me. I took not only the more ageworthy sweeter wines but also dry wines from lesser vintages that should have sold though a long time ago, such as 1984. No-one can accuse me of being unwilling to experiment!

These wines will give much pleasure, and for my part will make useful and inexpensive additions to twenty-year-on tastings, but I think it is now essential that we view these wines in the light of those now emanating from these vineyards under the direction of François Chidaine. Even in a vintage like 2007, not a strong season which yielded largely sec cuvées, the Chidaine wines show a purity and freshness which is admirable. This is the Chidaine style, and it can be traced back though the vinification to the care that he exacts in the vineyard. His wines serve to show up those of the Poniatowski era for the under-performers that they are, wines that were undoubtedly regal but which lacked precision, definition and sometimes even a sense of cleanliness. Draw no conclusions about the wines from that era until you have tasted those of Chidaine, would be my advice. He is bringing this domaine, and the famed Clos Baudoin, back to life. (18/8/09)

Contact details:
Address: 5, Grande-Rue, 37270 Montlouis-sur-Loire
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 45 19 14
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 45 19 08
Internet: www.francois-chidaine.com

François Chidaine - Tasting Notes

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François Chidaine Montlouis Clos du Breuil 2007: The nose here is bright and lifted, showing some lovely pear fruit, and still a good vein of minerals too. The palate shows the same firm structure and minerality as it has done previously, nicely defined, with good substance. Lots of good grip in the midpalate, bright, dry and delineated, with a sappy-grippy finish. Really good potential here. 16.5-17+/20 (February 2009)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos du Breuil 2007: The terroir here is clay and flint. This has a really appealing nose, showing complex fruit. The palate is weighty and complex, and certainly has substance. There is an intense minerality which dominates the flavour profile, and a great acid structure beneath it. I find this to be really appealing. 16.5-17+/20 (April 2008)

François Chidaine Montlouis Clos Habert 2007: This has 15 g/l residual sugar. A really lovely nose here, full of white pepper and pears, and ripe stone fruit. There is a fine palate to follow, soft, gentle and minerally; it doesn't have the grip of the preceding wines, but there is a fine and broad substance beneath. Full bodied and substantial, with a slightly bitter finish, this is really very good indeed. 17-17.5+/20 (February 2009)

François Chidaine Vouvray Les Argilles 2007: This is rather reticent on the nose, especially compared with the Clos du Breuil, with just a little stony aromatic character. The palate shows good form though; it is fairly closed, but there is a lot of substance and texture. A good broad character, with lots of grip in the structure. This has really good, tightly wound promise; more than the Breuil, I think. 16.5-17+/20 (February 2009)

François Chidaine Vouvray Clos Baudoin 2007: There is lovely depth and interest here, the aromas of minerals mixed with citrus fruit, but with great depth. Appealing and structured, clean and firm, with fresh acid. Flavours of apples and pears, this has delightful dry style. This is my first taste of wine from this vineyard since Chidaine took control; it has a very distinctive style that sings of the terroir, and is very impressive. 17-17.5+/20 (April 2008)

François Chidaine Montlouis Les Choisilles 2006: This has gently honeyed pear fruit on the nose, ripe, expressive and fresh. There is a little residual sugar evident on the palate, but this is nicely countered by plenty of grip and acidity, more the former in fact, and good minerality. A very attractive style overall, showing softness and warmth on the nose which partially translates onto the palate which has good grip and substance. Good potential. 16.5-17+/20 (February 2009)