Domaine des Terres Noires Touraine Mesland Blanc 2023

The origin and evolution of an individual appellation can make for fascinating reading; many Loire appellations feature kings, noblemen and supporting casts filled with countless notable characters in their histories. A certain infamous cardinal pops up with some regularity, but the cast might also include actors, poets, scientists and scribes. Few, however, claim the appearance of a mystical water nymph, sent by Dionysius himself, as the point at which the appellation was born.

The obvious exception, of course, being the Touraine Mesland appellation.

Sometime early in the course of the 11th century a group of peasant viticulteurs, who had headed out to inspect their vines which were suffering in a prolonged dry spell, were visited by the nymph named Meslande. She arose from the waters of the Loire to offer reassurance, support, and what was essentially a ‘get back to work’ ultimatum. The moment is cited by modern-day viticulteurs as significant in kick-starting the development of viticulture in the region.

This was, of course, many years ago. History does not tell us if any of the viticulteurs were subsequently diagnosed with heat stroke, or whether they had perhaps enjoyed a long lunch in the vines before their ‘visitation’. These facets of the story are lost to time.

In truth the patronage of the Abbaye de Marmoutier, monks from which founded a priory in Mesland at about the same time the water nymph put in her one-and-only appearance (although she did threaten to return if the work in the vines was not completed), was perhaps more significant in fostering viticulture in this region. But lots of appellations have a monk or two in their origin stories. Only Touraine Mesland has a water deity.

The vineyards of the modern-day Touraine Mesland appellation lie on the right bank of the Loire; to visualise exactly where, imagine yourself in the Vouvray appellation (just try, it’s not that hard), east of Tours. If you hike upstream you will eventually leave behind this appellation and enter the more generic Touraine appellation. The first vineyards you pass through will be those of Touraine Amboise, with the town of Amboise on the opposite bank. Eventually, as you continue upstream, you will come to the commune of Monteaux, one of five in the Touraine Mesland designation. It is a relatively small zone, with a little over 100 hectares planted up and eligible.

The soils here tend to mirror those which run down the right bank of the river, with Miocene sands and flints deposited over deeper limestone. Perhaps more distinctive is the blend of varieties permitted here. Vouvray is of course pure Chenin Blanc (well, almost – it is in fact legal to blend and blend in up to 10% Menu Pineau), so too is Touraine Amboise. That was originally also the case for Touraine Mesland, but following a redrafting of the rules in 1994 Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay were admitted as potential blending partners.

This is reflected in the blend of the Touraine Mesland Blanc from Domaine de Terres Noires, which is typically 70% Chenin Blanc and 15% each Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. In the glass it presents a fresh and lemony hue, this vivacity transmitted to the nose which opens with pressed orchard fruits, particularly apple and pear, with a touch of Galia melon exoticism on the side, as well as some herbal notes redolent of mint and thyme. The palate is textured and continues to major on lively fruit, with pressed apple and orange peel, before a plump midpalate with plenty of fresh acidity and peppery vigour. A concludes with a modest but not short finish. This is a delightful discovery, a wine which is ready for drinking now rather than later, and which could show a few entry-level Vouvrays a thing or two. Bottled under agglomerate closure. The alcohol is 12.5% on the label. 89/100 (19/5/25)

Read more in:

• My guide to Chenin Blanc
• My reports on the Loire 2023 vintage
• Detailed guides to the Touraine and Touraine Mesland appellations

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