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Jérémie Huchet Mes Lies Melon 2023

After three weeks of Bordeaux 2024, with 855 wines tasted and scored in a dozen tasting reports from St Estèphe to Sauternes, featuring psychotic ramblings to confuse all but the most hardened subscribers (look, I’m not sure what to say, the primeurs just has that effect on me) but also some (hopefully) useful insights into the vintage, it really is time for a change of scene.

And so this week’s Weekend Wine choice sees us depart Bordeaux and head north for the Atlantic vineyards of the Nantais, which is a journey I might have undertaken once or twice before now (take the A10 as far as Niort, then the A83 up to Nantes). After a few hours behind the wheel we arrive in a new wine region, one with a distinct viticultural history and philosophy, and in the case of this particular wine from Jérémie Huchet, a unique assemblage. And, perhaps it goes without saying, a very different price point.

Jérémie Huchet is a fourth-generation vigneron, the Huchet family tracing their viticultural activities back to Jérémie’s great grandfather Joseph Arnaud who was tending vines here at the dawn of the 20th century. These vines were first passed to son-in-law Constant Huchet, and then to grandson Yves Huchet. Jérémie took over from his father Yves in 2001, after which he set about expanding the domaine; the 6 hectares tended by Constant has thus grown to something like 40 hectares (probably more) today, divided between a number of properties including Domaine de la Chauvinière, Clos les Montys, Château de la Bretesche and Château de la Templerie.

There is more to Jérémie’s world of wine than these four domaines though, evidence for which comes in the shape of his various single-vineyard cuvées and other projects, one of which is the cheap-and-cheerful Mes Lies Melon.

Jérémie Huchet Mes Lies Melon 2023

The 2023 Mes Lies Melon wears a fun label which reminds me of the bedroom wallpaper I had as a teenager (not that you would be familiar with the decor of my bedroom during the 1980s, so you will have to take my word for it), and both remind me a little of work of Piet Mondrian (1872 – 1944). Except for the bowler hat, I guess, which is a recurring theme on Jérémie’s labels; this is a play on words which becomes obvious once we learn that the French name for the bowler hat is melon chapeau (I suppose it does look like half a melon), and Melon de Bourgogne is of course the grape variety of Muscadet, Jérémie’s lead appellation.

As an aside, some of Jérémie’s other labels feature drawings by his children; I am looking forward to seeing the Rothschild family adopt something similar for future vintages of Mouton-Rothschild.

Mes Lies Melon features not just Melon de Bourgogne though, as it is blended with another variety planted throughout the Loire Valley, including here in the Nantais, Sauvignon Blanc. The philosophy is simple; take two varieties known for their early-drinking accessibility (yes, I know both are also the base material for very ageworthy wines), blend them in roughly equal portions, vinified in a low-alcohol style, for a wine which is intended for youthful and fuss-free drinking. A perfect apéro wine for a warm sunny evening and some barbecued shrimp (marinated in lime juice, honey and hot sauce given to me my Rodney Wages of Avery, if you’re interested), which pretty much describes my weekend.

In the glass the 2023 Vin de France (of course there is no appellation for Sauvignon-Melon blends) Mes Lies Melon from Jérémie Huchet presents a crystal clear hue. This is followed by a delightfully fruity and herb-tinged nose, with scents of lemon peel and thyme, touched with white chocolate and white pepper. The palate follows in much the same easy-drinking vein, with a plump texture, a charming grip, rather modest acidity and plenty of herby fruit making this an attractive and accessible vin de soif style. It finishes short, although this does not detract from what is a charming, fuss-free, low-ish alcohol wine. Drink now. The label declares 11.5%. 88/100 (12/5/25)

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