Domaine Le Fay d’Homme, 2022 Update
When I first profiled Vincent Caillé of Domaine Le Fay d’Homme back in 2015, I wrote that he was one of Muscadet’s unrecognised vignerons. In a region where so much attention seems to be afforded to a small number of cult names, it struck me at the time that, despite making a fine portfolio of attractive wines including two really exciting crus communaux cuvées, little or none of the limelight seemed to be directed towards Vincent.
Seven years on from first penning that profile and it seems to me that little has changed. Vincent seems to remain under the radar in the Muscadet region, despite all of the above, not to mention an intriguing joint project with Christelle Guibert, called Vine Revival, which has produced two delicious small-volume lees-aged cuvées under the names Terre de Gabbro and Terre de Gneiss. In this, the penultimate in a series of 2022 reports from Muscadet land, once again I find a portfolio of delicious wines chez Caillé, with some particularly strong crus communaux and lees-aged Vine Revival cuvées.
The core of Vincent’s portfolio is formed by three single-vineyard cuvées representing three of the more significant Muscadet terroirs, gneiss, orthogneiss, and gabbro. On this occasion I tasted just the latter two, both in the 2020 vintage. The 2020 Clos de la Févrie, from orthogneiss, was the more convincing of the two, with an attractive saline-citrus character. I would happily drink the 2020 Fiefs des Coteaux though, from gabbro, with its bright and white chalky fruits.
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