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Le Clos de la Meslerie, 2022 Update

Le Clos de la Meslerie, 2022 Update

My recent report on some of the latest releases from Domaine Huet reminded me that late last year, a week or two after the 2021 harvest was all in, I also called in at Le Clos de la Meslerie. After hearing about the 2021 vintage, which was a tale of frost, hail, rain and mildew culminating in a rather smaller harvest than is usual (a somewhat more detailed report is due soon, I promise) I sat down with Juliette Hahn-Gidon to taste three of the domaine’s latest releases.

The Domaine

The domaine has been home to Peter Hahn (pictured below with Juliette) since about 2007; he actually bought it five years before that, but could do nothing until the prior leaseholder’s time had expired. His first vintage was 2008. What is truly noteworthy about the domaine, aside from Peter’s commitment to environmentally sound working, is his approach to the harvest and vinifications.

Le Clos de la Meslerie

Peter and Juliette have only about 4 hectares to work with, all the vines being positioned directly around the château, with much of it enclosed by hedges. That’s a rather bijou vineyard for the region; many of Peter’s neighbours work a vineyard several times that size. Rather than trying to string out the harvest on his 4 hectares to make a portfolio of pétillant, sec, demi-sec and moelleux cuvées in microscopic volumes, Peter has favoured harvesting everything in one period of picking (usually lasting about a week) and then letting the vintage dictate the style.

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