Loire 2015 First Taste: Anjou & Saumur
Both Anjou and Touraine are complicated regions when it comes to reports such as these. Firstly, there is the myriad of styles we can expect to find here, not just dry and sweet whites under a variety of appellations, but also dry and sweet rosé, sparkling wine and red wines too. Secondly, some wines are clearly intended for drinking young, in particular the sparkling, rosé and entry-level white and red wines, while others, such as superior whites from Anjou and Savennières, and the majority of the red and sweet wines, are really better with a little age.
At this stage most vignerons are much more likely to show their earlier drinking wines. As I have already alluded in my Muscadet 2015 report, the primeurs fever that has gripped Bordeaux during the past few decades has never (thankfully) caught on in this region, and the only reason for anything other than wines destined for drinking this year to be shown at this very young age would be commercial pressure. In other words, if a domaine still has plenty of its 2014 Anjou Blanc to sell, there is no need for them to start pouring tastes of the 2015. If the domaine has sold out of 2014, however, and the 2015 is resting in vat doing nothing for their bank balance, the solution is obvious. It’s time to call the bottling man.
After one or two more difficult vintages both 2014 and 2015 have been a little more bountiful, especially so in some regions. This helps to ease off the commercial pressure. Thus many wines tasted here are those styles destined for drinking young, including Rosé de Loire and Cabernet d’Anjou, entry-level Anjou Blanc and lighter styles of Coteaux du Layon. One of a handful of exceptions to the rule is the 2015 Quarts de Chaume from Domaine Ogereau. This is the first vintage from this appellation for the domaine, from vines acquired in late 2014, and with this in mind (plus the fact I have been very clear about my enthusiasm for this new project) Emmanuel Ogereau brought along an embryonic sample for me to taste.
