Loire 2014 at Two Years: Central Vineyards
At first glance it might seem strange to return to the Central Vineyards at this point, when the vast majority of Sancerre – the region’s most famous appellation – is bought young, and drunk young. Similarly styled wines from Menetou-Salon, Pouilly-Fumé and other nearby appellations are largely, I am sure, treated in much the same manner.
There is more to Sancerre and these other appellations than these knock-’em-back styles though. Many of the leading vignerons treat their more upmarket cuvées to a more lengthy élevage than you might think, sometimes making use of oak. And as well as these superior wines, in a number of these appellations there are also red wines, which naturally experience a more considered élevage. Add in a couple of early-released cuvées that I have encountered over the past month or two and I soon found I had enough notes to warrant following my Anjou 2014 and Touraine 2014 updates with a report on the Central Vineyards, even if the wines here are rather fewer in number.
The Wines
First off, two top examples of Pouilly-Fumé, in different styles. The domaine cuvée from Jonathan Pabiot (pictured) is simply stunning, minerally, dense and pithy. This was one of a handful of wines I have already had the opportunity to drink at home, as it is already bottled and in distribution, and it was so delicious I didn’t stop until the entire bottle had been drained. If you have ever wondered about the validity of Pouilly-Fumé as an appellation, taste this wine. And if you ever wondered who the king of this appellation might be, again look no further. Similarly delightful was the 2014 Triptyque from Alain Cailbourdin, showing lots of tension and substance, but currently very young. The 2008 is drinking very well right now, which gives some indication as to how this oak-aged cuvée matures.
