Famille Lieubeau, 2023 Update
When I first started regularly tasting Muscadet and – as noted in my recent report on the wines of Luneau-Papin – forming my own opinions of the region and its famous (or infamous, as many seemed to regard it) wine, I naturally gravitated to the best-known names. The aforementioned Luneau-Papin. Jo Landron. Domaine de l’Ecu, during the era of Guy Bossard. And don’t forget Domaine de la Pépière.
Of course, since those early days I have set about exploring the region for myself, and it has been a joy to discover new talent. Sometimes it has come in the shape of a new arrival, a first-generation vigneron purchasing his or her first few rows of vines. Sometimes it has come simply from tasting the wines of long-established but under-appreciated domaines who have struggled to grab a slice of the limelight, so often hogged by the high-quality quartet mentioned in my opening paragraph. And sometimes it comes when a new generation elbows their parents to one side and takes the helm.
Famille Lieubeau belong to the latter category – although the three Lieubeau siblings are far too charming and polite to do any inter-generational elbowing. Nevertheless, this domaine has seen significant developments since François, Vincent and Marie Lieubeau took hold of the reins from their parents. And I have a feeling that they are still at a very early stage of their journey.
I met up with François and Vincent in London recently in order to taste the most recent and forthcoming releases.