Vignobles Günther-Chéreau, 2019 Update
Alongside Chéreau-Carré, Vignobles Günther-Chéreau (as the names suggest, the two domaines do indeed have a common origin) is another easily overlooked Nantais domaine which flies under the Muscadet radar. This is despite it turning out a range of wines which, at the top end, includes some enticing gems. Véronique Günther-Chéreau and her daughter Aurore (pictured below) keep themselves busy looking after three different vineyards, these being Château du Coing de Saint-Fiacre, Château de la Gravelle and Le Grand Fief de la Cormeraie, each one represented in the portfolio by a traditional sur lie wine, as well as some of these more interesting cuvées. These include crus communaux wines, not to mention traditional sur lie wines with a track record for aging, and even sweet and sparkling wines.
The Wines
I started by reviewing the three domaine-level sur lie cuvées, in both the 2018 and 2017 vintages. Both are clearly strong vintages for the region, with 2017 coming across with a slightly greater sense of reserve than the broader, riper 2018 vintage. Which you prefer will depend very much on your personal tastes, as the two years are differentiated here by style rather than quality. I have to confess I have a slight preference for 2018. Undeniably superior, however, were the two cru communaux cuvées. These included a 2013 Gorges cuvée which presents an aromatic profile of wonderful fruit character twisted with typical lees-aged notes of elderflower and vanilla flower. Alongside, a 2014 Monnières-Saint-Fiacre was more impressive, the vintage surely conferring some advantage, 2014 having been a strong year, many of the wines presenting fruit, minerals and acidity in combination. This particular example does just this, with rich notes of white peach and pear, with pretty orange blossom scents to the fore.
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