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Domaine Brégeon, 2022 Update

Domaine Brégeon, 2022 Update

In my sixth Muscadet update of the year I come to one of the leading domaines in the Gorges cru communal (some would argue it is number one in the cru, and frankly I would not be inclined to disagree), and that is Domaine Brégeon.

The spark that lit my own Brégeon fire was the 2004 vintage (yes, I am reminiscing), remarkable in that this was a fairly dire vintage for many corners of the Loire Valley. July and August saw higher levels of rainfall than any year during the preceding three decades, and it was only drier and warmer weather through September which saved the vintage (sounds a little like 2021, I suppose). At the time the domaine was in the hands of ponytailed proprietor André-Michel Brégeon. It had a great reputation yet the wines were impossible to find in the UK (and they didn’t seem to be widely distributed in France either), but eventually I managed to track down some of his long lees-aged Gorges prototype (this was long before any of the crus communaux were defined in appellation law) from the 2004 vintage.

Domaine Brégeon

The wine had seen out 64 months on the lees, and at the time – when I was only really just getting to grips with the concept of long periods of aging on the lees, and the development of the cru communal system – I thought this was quite astonishing. Of course, more than a few years on, I know that the vignerons of Gorges tend to leave their wines sur lie for much longer than the other crus (their only potential rival in this is Clisson), and that five (or more) years is not that unusual.

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