Domaine des Aubuisières, 2010 Update

There is no better way to get under the skin of a wine region and understand its wines than to visit the region in question. In fact, I think it is essential; to gain a truly deep understanding of the wines you have to connect with them outside of the glass in your hand. You need to meet the winemakers, see the vineyards, and walk amongst the vines. Yes, you can enjoy wine despite never having done any of this, but the pleasure derived from each glass will be greater if you have.

One additional benefit of meeting the vignerons is that they can direct you, even on occasion open doors for you. Yesterday’s account of my discussion with Richard Leroy about who else was on the itinerary for my most recent set of Loire visits is not an unusual occurrence. Exactly the same thing happened when I met Eddy Oosterlinck recently at his home near Faye d’Anjou; as my visit drew to a close we ended up talking about other winemakers, and which of their wines we liked to drink, particularly in Vouvray and Montlouis. I told Eddy who I had visited there recently; Jacky Blot and François Chidaine in Montlouis, Vincent Carême and Domaine Huet in Vouvray. Eddy, however, was a vocal supporter of another Vouvrillon, one who I have not visited for some time; none other than Bernard Fouquet.

Domaine des Aubuisières

I wasn’t in the least bit surprised to hear Fouquet’s name spoken in this manner, nor to learn that Eddy is so enamoured with his wines. Bernard Fouquet has long been a stalwart of the Vouvray appellation; and yet he is less well known than either Huet or Foreau, perhaps less than Champalou also, a vigneron who somehow manages to remain under-the-radar despite sitting – in my opinion – on the very top tier of the appellation. And I would place him directly behind Huet and Foreau on that tier, in third place. And so might Eddy, I fancy, such is his regard for the wines.

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