Domaine Dozon: Tasting & Drinking
Take a look at old texts which relate to Chinon during the latter half of the 20th century and it is clear the reverence with which the wines of the Clos du Saut au Loup, and of Domaine Dozon in general, were regarded. It was this renown, as well as the huge list of private customers the Dozon family had built up during their time here (and who Eric did not wish to alienate), which prompted Eric to make the move from using Domaine Dozon to using his own name (which now appears on some labels), and that of the Domaine du Clos du Saut au Loup instead, a gradual one. I suspect it was also the resistance he encountered which persuaded him to eventually give up on this ambition. And thus the domaine remains under the name Domaine Dozon today.
Despite this local renown, beyond the borders of the appellation, and the private client list, I don’t think the domaine or the wines of the Clos du Saut au Loup are particularly well known. This is something Eric Santier will no doubt wish to put right, in time.
I feel, even with more than a decade under his belt, that it is still early days for Eric at this domaine. There is no doubting the intent, as evidenced by the domaine’s recent conversion to organic viticulture, certification achieved in the 2023 vintage. Tasting through the current range, including the entry-level red and rosé cuvées as well as the zero-added-sulphites cuvée Chemin Traverse(e), these can all be delightful examples of the easy-drinking end of the Chinon appellation (in the right vintage, anyway). Looking solely at these wines, this is already a very competitive domaine. The more serious cuvées still need a little work I think; the 2020 Clos du Saut au Loup wobbles along a little, although the oak-fermented, oak-matured 2019 Le Grand Saut was rather more convincing.
This is a domaine with great potential, but I feel Eric Santier has a long road ahead of him still. I hope I will be able to check in on him, from time to time, as he continues this journey. (1/8/23, updated 27/2/26)
