Domaine Saint Nicolas: Tasting & Drinking
The wines of Fiefs Vendéens and Domaine Saint Nicolas are not ones that, even as a fan of the Loire Valley eager to seek out all that it has to offer, I have encountered very often. It would be a mistake, however, to confuse a low profile for the appellation, or for any associated domaine, with inherently low quality. Any thoughts that this might be the case are immediately refuted upon tasting the wines of Thierry Michon and Domaine Saint Nicolas. Indeed, these are some of the most striking and surprising wines I have encountered during all my years of tasting.
The white wines of this domaine show some of the aromatic and structural features I would normally associate with Muscadet, with vibrant and open scents and flavours of salty minerality, but with a grip and confidence to the wine on the palate which was unexpected. Le Haut Clous is particularly notable in that respect, an impressive wine with the body and attitude of a good Vouvray, but tinged with maritime, Atlantic influences. The rosé wines are also top-notch, showing a dry grip and bright fruit purity. The red wines are also worthwhile. The Gammes-en-May has an attractive, bright Gamay fruit, and the flagship La Grande Pièce, 100% Pinot Noir, was convincing enough for me. Yes, there are plenty of good wines to be found here.
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