Domaine de l’Ecu: Frédéric Niger
Despite his reputation for turning out some of the best examples of Muscadet in existence, in 2008 Guy Bossard disclosed an interest in selling his domaine. With no apparent heir, no sign of Muscadet ever regaining the popularity that – in the case of the top wines, such as Bossard’s – it so richly deserves, and with two very small harvests in 2007 and 2008 (thanks to frost the latter saw yields in single figures on many Muscadet estates) it was perhaps not surprising that Guy had decided it was time to throw in the towel. Across the world Muscadet fans gasped in horror at the news, and we all awaited news of the domaine’s fate. Who would be willing to step into Guy’s shoes, and take up his secateurs?
Of course, this story is not unique in Muscadet. This is a region beset by financial difficulties, with dozens of vignerons declaring themselves bankrupt during the first few years of the 21st century, many pushed over the edge by the disastrously small crop harvested in 2008, more by the rampant mildew and grey rot of 2011. To continue to strive for quality in the face of such adversity, in the way Bossard has done, only then to find yourself selling your wine for a pittance compared to wines of similar quality from Bordeaux or Burgundy (or even other wines from the Loire Valley, Savennières or Sancerre for example) requires a very deep and committed passion.
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