Clos des Capucins: Tasting & Drinking
Having visited the Clos des Capucins in October 2022 (for the first time, hopefully not the last) I tasted a small selection of recent vintages, taken from Fiona’s cellars. With such a small production Fiona understandably has very small stocks, so I felt privileged to be able to taste these wines.
I tasted four vintages of Clos des Capucins, of which the 2022 vintage was still in an embryonic post-malolactic phase, so while this was interesting to taste my comments should probably be taken with a pinch of salt. From the three other vintages tasted I thought the 2018 Clos des Capucins was superior, as Fiona seems to have captured the ripeness of the vintage, yet shaped it into a savoury and intriguing style on the palate which carries a modest level of alcohol for this remarkably ripe year.
I also thought the 2015 Clos des Capucins was very good, although it was hiding its light under a reductive bushel, and the 2016 Clos des Capucins seemed otherwise reticent. I suspect both will do good with appropriate time in the cellar.
The Perfectly Drinkable cuvée, tasted in the 2020 vintage, was nothing short of delicious. I was less taken with the no-added-sulphite bottling, which is not commercially available, but which Fiona keeps for drinking at home. She is adamant that it is usually the better of the two when poured alongside the standard sulphite-dosed version. I think I will just keep an open mind on that.
All in all, however, I am impressed by these wines, which will repay keeping. The problem will be tracking them down, given the small volumes produced, and the rather select distribution. (23/3/23, updated 27/7/26)
