Domaine Philippe Alliet: Tasting & Drinking
Philippe Alliet is often discussed in the same breath as Bernard Baudry, and this seems appropriate as these are two of the very best viticulteurs in the Chinon appellation. The make-up of any particular appellation can grow and change, and overtime I have discovered other domaines turning out comparable quality, but none seem to do it so consistently as these two.
From his vines on the Coteau de Noiré, Philippe and Pierre Alliet turn out not only one of the most convincing wines in the appellation, or indeed the Loire Valley, but in all France. With its dark and complex fruit, all olives and currants, reinforced by fresh structure and backbone, and not battered down by excessive use of oak (something Philippe has reined in over the years), this is a wine which would stand up well in comparison to many other wines, top Bordeaux, a great Bandol, many wines from Burgundy too I would imagine.
For a slightly different quality-to-price ratio, the wine of L’Huisserie provides another option. The end result may not be so striking as the Coteau de Noiré, but these wines are delicious all the same. It may also be that they appeal to purists more. If you believe Chinon is capable of making a true grand vin, like those other regions mentioned above, than the Coteau de Noiré is for you. If you prefer wines of lesser texture and bright fruit, wines perhaps more approachable in youth, then L’Huisserie or maybe the Vieilles Vignes cuvée would be the best option.
The Chinon Blanc is delicious, but my experience with it is really just in the first flourish of youth. I have put a couple of bottles of it away over the years to see how it ages, and coming back to it at ten years it has charm, but whereas Philippe leads the appellation with his reds, I would not say this was the case with his whites. They are good wines though.
Whatever your preference though, there is no doubt in my mind that this domaine is appellation leader (or at least one of the handful of domaines which can stake a claim to this title) and these are wines I buy, cellar and drink regularly.
Looking at recent vintages, all have something to offer, and even in more challenging vintages such as 2021 I find the wines of this domaine have a quality that makes them a worthwhile addition to the cellar. Having said that, the best vintages in recent years are 2023, 2022, 2020, 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015 and 2014 (yes, I realise this is pretty much every vintage back from 2023, but the Loire Valley has enjoyed a run of good years for red wines in recent times), and looking back beyond these vintages I have enjoyed 2010, 2009, 2006 and 2005. (29/8/07, updated 10/2/09, 23/2/17, 13/3/26)
