Home > Producer Profiles > Loire Profiles > Philippe Alliet
Philippe Alliet
As with Bernard Baudry, here we have another of Chinon’s leading estates located in the small village of Cravant (or Cravant-les-Coteaux to give the hamlet its full title), on the D8 to the east of the town of Chinon itself. Can it be a coincidence that two such significant estates lie so close to one another in this little riverside town? Perhaps not, but if anything it is surely the drive and passion of Philippe Alliet himself that is responsible for the rapid ascent of this particular domaine within the Chinon hierarchy.
In order to create this domaine Philippe Alliet drew together family vineyards, including those of his grandfather, in 1985. These vineyards were not auspicious, and were exclusively of the lesser Chinon terroirs, a mix of sandy or gravely soils, which tend only to produce wines for early or mid-term drinking. Philippe himself recognised this, and today he is quite open about the quality of the first vineyards he possessed, which he describes as “average”. Nevertheless, even lesser soils can produce admirable wines with dedication, and the labours of Philippe and his wife Claude paid off; by the early 1990s the wines of the domaine were clearly of great quality. This was achieved largely, as always, in the vineyard, with bud reduction and a control over the yields, but also in the cellars where Philippe, who regularly travels to Bordeaux, the source of much of his inspiration, keeps a watching eye. He oversees 100% destemming of his fruit which is then macerated for up to five weeks, with pigeage during alcoholic fermentation, before malolactic fermentation in barrique.
After a few years came the opportunity Alliet was waiting for, when he purchased the Coteau de Noiré, a grand terroir, a south-facing slope with soils of clay and limestone which are much more likely to be associated with a structured, ageworthy Chinon. The site became available when its owner died without an heir. Although it was rather overgrown Alliet replanted it, and today it gives rise to his flagship cuvée aged in new oak which takes the same name as the vineyard, Coteau de Noiré. More recently, however, Alliet has added another vineyard to his portfolio, this being l’Huisserie, which is located next to the Chene Vert vineyard of Charles Joguet, close to the Vienne. Although only planted with young vines the potential here is tangible, this being another clay and limestone site. Alliet’s first vintage was the 2004, so far not tasted by me, an event I am looking forward to.
Altogether the Alliet domaine now amounts to more than 12 hectares of Cabernet Franc, the red variety which dominates the Chinon vignoble (Cabernet Sauvignon is also permitted). After the Coteau de Noire and l’Huisserie cuvées comes the Vieilles Vignes bottling, sourced from 50-year old vines, as well as an entry-level Chinon which is typical of the wines from the sandy terroirs of the appellation; light, fruity, gentle and easy-going. In this style, though, it is a very good example. The same can be said of all the range here; Alliet’s professionalism shines through. In an appellation where hard work is required to get the very best out of the vines, he has the necessary nerve and commitment. Reading through my notes, I see some common themes; freshness, purity, flavour, elegance. This is a must-taste domaine for those interested in the red wines of the Loire. (29/8/07)
Contact details:
Address: L'Ouche Monde, 37500 Cravant-les-Coteaux
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 47 93 17 62
Fax: +33 (0) 2 47 93 17 62
Philippe Alliet - Tasting Notes
Click
to locate
stockists:
Alliet Chinon 2004: Moderately dense appearance, vibrant and yet quite dark
in colour, a deep claretty core with a very thin rim of pink. An interesting
nose, obviously a style on the fresh, lighter side of Chinon, with nuances of
charcoal and strawberries, raspberries, beetroot and smoke. A fresh, vivacious
style on the palate as expected, clean, with a very well defined frame of cherry
stone acidity around a blend of rhubarb and baked strawberry fruit. A nice red
for warmer weather, served cool. Good. 16/20 (August 2007)
Alliet Chinon Vieilles Vignes 2003: Sourced from 50-year old vines. When poured this has
a very dark, glossy appearance, a deeply coloured dark claretty hue, extending
from the core right out to a thin, deep pink rim. The nose is really impressive,
showing a deep purity of dark berry fruit that is not a common finding in the
appellation. It is deeply characterful and yet also very pure and fresh. On the
palate, it has an old vines creaminess and again a fine freshness, gently
underpinned by a little core of ripe, polished tannins. This has a wonderful
concentration and extract, all framed in a stylish and smooth texture. Very good
indeed, with fine potential for the cellar. For label images and more see my
Wine of the Week write-up.
17+/20 (May 2007)
Alliet Chinon Coteau de Noiré 2002: This wine also has a very dark,
glossy, richly coloured core, with a deep rim too. There is some beautifully
pure, dark berry fruit on the nose, very deep and characterful, but in
possession of a certain freshness also. It is pleasingly rich and creamy on the
palate, certainly stylish, with a good extract and character, backed up by a
fine grip. This has the freshness suggested on the nose, but plenty of elegant
presence, and overall is finely balanced. Very good indeed. 17/20 (August 2007)
Home - Site index - Site updated May 09, 2008 - © The Winedoctor 2000 - 2008 - Wine Scores - RSS
