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René Daviau Coteaux de l’Aubance Rosé de Cabernet 1944

This week’s Weekend Wine takes us back to a time when sweet rosé was hugely popular, and vignerons worked to the rules of long-forgotten appellations.

Before we come to that though, a confession. For what is perhaps only the second time in Weekend Wine history, the bottle featured here was not consumed this weekend, or even during the course of the last week or two (the other time I committed this sin was with the 1989 Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts from Albert Bichot, fourteen years ago). This was a bottle I shared with Christophe and Antoine Daviau of Domaine de Bablut last October; it was as I wrote up my visit to the domaine, which you can read about here, that I realised this wine deserved its moment in the spotlight.

Now that I have that off my chest, I should perhaps provide a little background detail. This is a sweet rosé, a style that was very popular in the Loire Valley for much of the 20th century (more popular than it is today, anyway). While many varieties could be utilised (as is still the case today, in the Rosé d’Anjou appellation) the best examples have always been made with either (or both) of the two Cabernets (another style that exists today, in the Cabernet d’Anjou appellation). Before these two appellations were born (and I know you are itching to know when, so this was in 1957 and 1964 respectively), however, there were half a dozen other appellations that could be utilised, one of which was the curiously long-winded, now defunct and largely forgotten Coteaux de l’Aubance Rosé de Cabernet appellation. As we have here.

René Daviau Coteaux de l'Aubance Rosé de Cabernet 1944

The sweet rosé style can be delicious young (if you like a little residual sugar) but it can also age well, in the case of good vintages for many decades. Over the past few years I have enjoyed several other vintages of Cabernet d’Anjou, including 1974 (which was the best of these ‘younger’ bottles), 1979 (in a leaner demi-sec style) and 1980 (which was in a more moelleux style). So, as you can perhaps imagine, I was quite excited to check out this example from the 1944 vintage.

It is perhaps not the words on the front label that really matter here though. The words on the back label, pictured below, resonate through time. If you don’t read French, fear not, I have provided a translation (is that my high-school French teacher I hear sniggering at the back?) below the image.

René Daviau Coteaux de l'Aubance Rosé de Cabernet 1944

These words were written by René Daviau’s son Jean-Pierre Daviau, the father of Christophe Daviau who runs Domaine de Bablut today. They translate as follows;

“This 1944 Cabernet d’Anjou was an exceptional witness to this year when France would regain its honour, thanks to the courage of our liberators.

The growth of the old Cabernet vines, on slopes of schist, began in occupied France. The flowering took place after June 6th, when hope arrived on our nation’s soil. The green grapes took on their violet hue as the Angevin region celebrated the passage of the Allies (Patton liberated Angers on August 10th). The harvest was the first in four years to be done on our liberated slopes. In 1945, at the time of the final victory, it was this wine which was uncorked to ‘lubricate’ the celebrations.

My father vinified this vintage. In his memory and to commemorate the Allied Landings, I have released 245 bottles which were sleeping in my personal cellar.

Speak with this 1944, rich in memories…
If you know how to listen, it will not disappoint you.”

I don’t think I need to add any more that that.

In the glass today the 1944 Coteaux de l’Aubance Rosé de Cabernet from René Daviau shows a fabulous character. It starts off with an intensely concentrated, golden-toasted hue, looking more like an amontillado than a rosé. It has confident aromatic expression though, rich in the scents of baked orange peel and liquorice, with a light layer of sweet, honeyed suggestions. It follows the same schema on the palate, showing a very pure character, ethereal and light-footed, with the perfume of roses, orange peel and peach, all set within a gentle sweetness and a fine frame of acidity. It is charming, fresh, bright, cool and long in the finish, with good grip too. It feels very complete, and being honest I could drink this all day – if only I could sneak away the bottle. 94/100

One last item of trivia. At the Cabernet Franc Symposium in Bordeaux, hosted in June 2023 by Château Jean Faure, the wines poured at dinner included (among others) Château Cheval Blanc, Clos Rougeard, and a certain 1944 from René Daviau. My only hope is that those fortunate enough to attend (I was invited, but could not be there) and to drink it that day, knew how to listen…. (7/8/23)

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