Introducing Nicolas Martin, 2023
With several thousand hectares planted to vines in Vouvray, approximately 2,200 all told, a detailed exploration of this appellation – as it indeed deserves – could constitute a lifetime’s work. I learn of new (and sometimes not so new) names in the appellation all the time, sometimes from the unlikeliest of sources. For every hot tip whispered by a friendly vigneron there is another new name which first crops up on Instagram or other social media platforms (although, being honest, it is usually Instagram).
And sometimes I discover vignerons of note working right under my nose, without my even knowing they were there. So it was earlier this year when I tasted the first releases from Nicolas Martin, in Vouvray. The name might not be familiar, but I soon realised I have met Nicolas before, several times, at another domaine in Vouvray. I even shared lunch with him once. And I know his cousin too, a well-known name in Montlouis-sur-Loire (and Vouvray, to some extent).
So it was a delight earlier this year to meet Nicolas and to be able to taste the first releases (in the 2020 and 2021 vintages) from his recently acquired parcel of vines near Vouvray’s première côte.
Nicolas, Vincent and François
Nicolas Martin perhaps first came to my attention as one of two people with a stake in François Chidaine’s business (the other being François’ wife, Manuela). This close working relationship reflects the fact that Nicolas is François Chidaine’s cousin. Together the trio took over the Clos Baudoin – both the rather fine maison which sits behind the gated entrance to the clos, and the vines of course – from Prince Poniatowski in 2002. This was a working arrangement which lasted approximately five years, and the trio eventually acquired full ownership in 2006.
