Michel Autran, 2018 Update
Vouvray has seen something of a renaissance over the past decade, the appellation having seen the arrival of a smorgasbord of new talent. Prominent among this merry band of newly active vignerons is Michel Autran, a doctor who swapped his stethoscope for secateurs (sensible chap!), throwing in the towel on his previous career in favour of a life in the vineyard and cellar. He is, like many of these newcomers, a friend and protégé of Vincent Carême, who is without a doubt the most successful of all the new arrivals on the scene.
Michel (pictured) started small, having begun just with a few vines in Les Enfers, followed by the acquisition of some vines at a second site, Le Ciel Rouge. His little portfolio of vines thus expanded, and it now includes two sparkling cuvées, one made with Chenin Blanc, the other a mix of teinturier and non-teinturier Gamay (sometimes blended with a little Chenin Blanc too). His house style leans towards a strictness or even austerity, but the wines are always worth a look.
The Wines
Michel poured the 2016 Les Enfers Tranquilles, from soils of clay and large, coarse deposits of flint. This cuvée always tends towards the more nervous than the wines from Le Ciel Rouge, and in this vintage it feels dry and energetic, with a little hint of austerity. It is certainly a cuvée for people who enjoy wines that major on tension and reserve rather than generosity. It you prefer wines in the latter style the 2017 Le Ciel Rouge may be more your thing; while this was very young, and was still carrying some unfermented sugar which makes assessment difficult, there is a reassuring weight of fruit, minerality and acidity here. It will be interesting to see how this pans out once the vinification is finished.
