Château Gaudrelle, 2019 Update
Proprietor of what is perhaps the most under-rated domaine in the entire Vouvray appellation, Alexandre Monmousseau’s wines seem to get better every year. His sparkling wines are exemplary, even if one of them is refused the Vouvray appellation for its pétillant naturel early-bottled style (Vouvray needs to spend a minimum period of time sur lattes to be so named). His sweet wines are too easily overlooked, the Réserve Speciale classically styled and amazing value, the Réserve Personnelle brimming with botrytis and residual sugar. And between the two the sec, sec-tendre and demi-sec wines include some delights, the only real problem being the confusing, multifaceted nature of the portfolio at this level.
In recent years, in recognition of Alexandre’s work, which includes a gradual conversion to organic viticulture, as well as the quality of his wines, I have been regularly returning here to check out the latest vintages. The wines described here were tasted with Alexandre in February 2019.
The Wines
Kicking off with the sparkling wines, these seem as reliable as ever, with my favourite from the three being the 2014 Tintamarre, the Vin de France alluded to above, which combines pebbly minerality with fresh fruit character. I would not refuse a glass of any of these three wines though, the stylish 2013 L’Extra Brut showing well, my next choice, followed by the 2016 Brut Millésime.
