Domaine de la Fontainerie, 2022 Update
The longest period of time I have ever spent in Vouvray was three weeks, back in 2014. It is a contradiction that in the same year one proprietor berated me for my “lack of support for the appellation”, telling me I needed to “get behind” Vouvray, I had already arranged to spend a decent wedge of my summer there. That proprietor had clearly misunderstood the role of the critic, but I understood my commitment to the Loire Valley, and all of its appellations, Vouvray included, perfectly well.
I took up residence next to the Clos de la Meslerie, overlooking the valley of the Brenne which runs down into the Loire itself. From this base I visited all the well-known names of the appellation; I called in on Philippe Foreau, the Champalou family, the now-retired Bernard Fouquet, François Pinon and Vincent Carême. It was a who’s who of Vouvray. I even called in on Domaine Huet, although only to buy a few bottles to taste at my residence, as that was all I was permitted to do, having been banned from tasting at the domaine early that very year.
Having made these visits, I then looked around to see if there was a less familiar name in the appellation I should call in on. Asking some of the vignerons listed above, one name kept cropping up.
That of Catherine Dhoye-Deruet.
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