Domaine Le Fay d’Homme: Tasting & Drinking
An evidently modest man, Vincent Caillé has been tending his family’s vines and making wine from the fruit he picks for more than two decades. I have found some of his wines to be of exceptional quality, and yet despite this his profile remains very low. In his portfolio there are wines with such purity and precision that I wonder whether Vincent shouldn’t be ranked not merely as yet another interesting domaine to keep in mind, but in fact one of the very best. It is criminal that it has taken so long for him and his wines to be brought into the light, but that is exactly what I intend to achieve, in my own small way, with this profile.
The wines that have piqued my interest here are really the cru communal cuvées, but before coming to those I can not simply pass over the other wines I have tasted. Of these the most significant is the Clos de la Févrie, Vincent’s first biodynamic cuvée. This is an attractive wine, delicate yet showing good energy and acid freshness, in the 2013 vintage at least. There is also the La Part du Colibri Muscadet cuvée, and several reds produced under the same entry-level label. The name La Part du Colibri, by the way, refers to a tale of a hummingbird who attempts to put out a forest fire using water carried in his tiny beak. When challenged by larger birds, he explains that he is “doing his part”, the work of the hummingbird an obvious analogy for Vincent’s work on his tiny organic and increasingly biodynamic domaine.
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